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I agree two converters are overkill. But we have some strict emission crap here. Ill have to contact them and see if they will send me a the 2wd midpipe they have listed and see if it fits. somehow explain to them they have it backwards. Thanks

Anyone ever bought parts from here? http://store.streetbeatcustoms.com/subaru-gl-magnaflow-direct-fit-catalytic-converters.html I bought the Y pipe with converter and the mid pipe w/ converter for a 89 4wd wagon (ea82). Went to check the fitment of the mid pipe while the stock Y pipe still on the car and the converter hits the bearing on the drive shaft. Comparing it to the old mid pipe the converter needs to moved 6-8" towards the front of the car (like the one in the link speced out fot a 2wd car). I think they have there description messed up. I didnt check fitment of the Y pipe but it looks good, construction overall of both parts also look good.

Yeah I should prob check the plugs too. Thanks Didnt think of that. Def. could make it tick.

Let it warm up and revved it up some drove it around and revved it some more and its nice and smooth. I do hear some ticking but I think its the pcv valve (def. not the lifters). Pretty loud, didnt think it would tick loud enought ot hear it when the hood is shut. Have to look into to that this weekend. Thanks For the help.

Yup has oil, pressure is well over 45lbs on the stock gauge. some of the lifters wouldnt slide out of the head not sure if that a bad thing. It only tick a little on start up before doing the HGs. Ill let it warm up tomorrow and see what happens after reving it some. Thanks

It ticked very little before. Its pretty bad now. I used all oem gaskets and felpro pt head gaskets & let all rtv dry (for days). Some of the lifters came out but there where replaced back to there org locations (assuming rotation doesnt matter). I did notice on some you could push them in an 1/8 inch till there was resistance. Other had no give at all. Will the ticking go away after driving it some?

Just replaced the head gaskets on an ea82. Did all the other seals, orings, new timing belts. timing is @ 18 degrees. Started it today for the 1st time and started up right away & oil pres. went up right away. Thanks to all the help here it made the job allot easier and way more understandable then the Hynes book:P My only concern is its ticking super loud, way louder then I thought it would. I know the lifters have to pump up. Just ticking louder then you would normally hear an ea82 tick. I made extra sure the oil pump seals were all installed correctly and didnt get messed up on the way in. I did replace all three seals in the pump (mickey mouse, the round o-ring and the shaft seal). I didnt take it for a drive yet and most people say it just needs to drivin to get the lifters to pump up. So if someone could chim and let me know if the engine ticked louder then normal after replacing all the gasket such as I did, that would be great. Thanks

Well thought I was going to put a new gasket on it today. Took it apart a couple days ago and the gasket came right off. Looked at the pan today and someone stuck a new gasket on top of the org. one. No wonder it leaked and the 1st one came off so easy. The org. is really stuck to the pan. work on it for about 45 min. and close to half way off. What some people do.

I am about to put a new pan gasket on as well. Going to try GDs suggestion. Thanks

Thanks for the quick responces I am thinking the mid size shaft needs to go in the trans a little further. Reason is the smallest shaft can slide inside the mid one past flush. The shafts did come out some. I didint hear anything drop but who knows. Does anyone know for sure that if the shafts slide out (whatever the distance) cause any harm?

Pulled the engine out with out knowing I should have unbolted the converter and left it on the trans. Whats the proper way of reinstalling it? I see three splinned shafts, two of them slide in & out. The smaller one can slide into the mid sized one. Kinda confused on how I am to get the smallest one seated in the converter if it slides all the way in to the middle shaft. Ive read all the bad storys about people not getting it in correctly & destroying the trans. Also if you know what shaft does what would be great to know. Thanks

After I took them apart I didnt see anything else wrong with the HG. Even around that o-ring didnt look real bad, but you could tell something wasnt right. Guess the built-in o-ring and that area of the HG was just thinned out and let oil past. Was my only reason for doing them too (oil leak). Car ran fine. Time to go buy some gaskets and stuff. Thanks for your help.

I wasnt sure if it was built into the heasgasket or not. kind of popped out pretty easy. Is that the most common area for the HG to leak oil (near that o-ring in the HG)? Seemed to be the only place that was really gunked up w/ oil and grud when it was taken apart. Was leaking pretty bad. would start to form a drip within 1-2 min. of the engine starting.

I researched a good bit on here about cracked heads and replacing all the gaskets and such that are known to leak oil and I have a few questions. I have the heads off and noticed the typical crack between the valves on all four. Most say this is not a problem (90% of the time) if there not to big. My question is what is to big (length & or width)? I dont have the valves out of the heads but I can just see the one by looking into the intake port. It seems that both heads leak oil from the one o-ring found between the block and head. Is this a common for the heads to leak there? Another question - should I bother replacing cam seals and o-rings if there not leaking? I wouldnt think so but, figured I'd ask anyway. Thanks

Iam glad I asked about the hankook tires, I almost bought them because a local tire guy had them in stock. Ill start a post on the kumhos once there installed, and give a first immpresion, and go from there.

Thanks for the help. I just ordered the kumhos. I hope to get them on in time for the snow thats coming this weekend, suppose to be a good amount. FUNFUNFUN Later Cookie1

Hey Rob Thanks for the heads up on these tires. Sounds like I need to keep looking. I may just order a set of Kumho Touring A/S 795 $34.00 each, They seem to be getting some really good reviews on tireracks site. anyone w/ info on the kumhos, that would be great. Cookie1

Just looking for some input on these tires if there any good. They will be going on a 92 Loyale 4X4 wagon. At a price of 39.99 each.

I know this has been covered before but I dont seem to be having any luck w/ the search button. I want to replace the shocks and struts on my stock 92 4X4 loyale wagon. Ive used kyb gr-2 on cars in the past and really liked them and would like to stick w/ them. Can anyone tell the part #s for the front struts and the rear shocks. Also the best/cheapest place to get them. This is a totally stock car & ride hieght & want to keep it that way. Thanks

92 Loyale 27-28 mixed driving.

Well I ordered the busing that I need, OEM by the way. My question now is whats involved w/ replacing it because Iam doing it myself. I dont have it in front of me so I dont know what it looks like. I know w/ previous cars the bushings came w/ an inner & outer metal sleeve and the whole thing has to be press out & the new one pressed in. I did a search and cant find out if this bushing has both inner & outer sleeves, if it does this sounds like its going to be a real pain to do w/out taking the whole trailing arm off the car to get all the press work done. Would the super pro bushings be an easier replacement? Sounds like you leave outer sleeve (if there is a factory one) when using these bushings.

I searched and found alot of different things but knowone has the same problem I seem to be having. So whats your advice. I have a clunk in the rear end mostly the pas. side in my 92 loyale 4X4. The car does not have air suspension. It happens pretty much at all speeds when hitting a pot hole, high way joints big or small. I was thinking it was the rear struts failing. So I put it up on a lift to check it + to change both front axles & ball joints. (Thank you to everyone was involved in the directions and pics to do the front axles & ball joints it really help & saved me some cash. ) Ok back to the rear end clunk. When it was up on the lift I noticed the front bushing to the rear trailling arm looked to be pretty wore out & had rust on it like the arm had been rubbing frame because the bushing was shot. Is this the problem or could it be something else or a combination of things. I plan on replacing that bushing anyway. Can I still purchase this part? Any tips or tricks to replacing the bushing and fixing this problem would be great. The car also needs an alignment and I would like to get this taken car of 1st. Thanks for the help and this site is great and has tons of info. Oh one last thing the right rear tire got worn pretty badly on the out side if this info helps.