LocalHero

Thanks for the replies, the overpriced blades from AutoZone seem ok for now and hopefully I won't need to replace them for a good while. I hate waste and am disappointed that I have to throw away the whole assembly just to replace the insert but it is what it is. https://www.google.com/search?q=ink+pen+refills&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1 Just sayin'

Well with rain coming and needing to drive, I bought some Bosch blades on sale at AutoZone. Not only does it seem like a lot to pay $36 for a pair of blades, but throwing away the whole assembly when just the rubber needed to be replaced seems like stupid waste. I'll keep those oem blades on a shelf and hopefully remember to look for replacement inserts next time I need them. Thanks all!

Thanks. I did search "wiper blades" before I posted but there was nothing useful going back as far as 2013.

Thanks, what wipers would you suggest at Walmart for $20 that's decent?

I need new blades for my 2015 Outback. The hardware assembly seems fine and I'm wondering if I can just replace the rubber insert. I see this sold via Subaru but not sure exactly how these would be installed: https://www.subarupartsandaccessories.com/p/Subaru_2015_Outback/RUBBER-ASSEMBLY-WINDSHIELD-WIPER-650MM/60018731/86548AL03A.html?partner=googlebase_adwords_maintenance_color_make_model_year&kwd=&origin=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzcbWBRDmARIsAM6uChXzcYELqGOeHqvSwikNhC034kkOava3gaaS5kCWoKSmBRTg3reE92AaAlLREALw_wcB Does anyone else just replace the inserts?

Yes, I'm guilty of not taking pictures too. But rather than pictures, a diagram with steps for removing the headliner would be more valuable. Wouldn't this be in a manual? Once you get the headliner down or partially down, it's easy to see the drains and it's all pretty much self explanatory. Most of the interior trim pieces that need to be removed to get to the headliner simply snap in and out of place. I first opened the rear passenger door and pried the plastic trim piece that wraps the rear side of the door frame off. Next was the long piece that runs under the long rear window. I think there were 4 screws in that piece.... two under an obvious trim cap under the front end of that window (it pries off with a screwdriver easily) Then another under the little pop-out hook at the rear of the same window (you see it when you pop the hook out) and the fourth is at the very rear of the panel you're removing. Then just under that fourth screw is a T shaped hook thingy that simply unscrews by grasping it like a wing nut and turning. As I remember the process that is all the fasteners that need to be removed for all the plastic trim pieces. There are other mechanical fasteners but they're all plug-in types that come loose with gentle prying. As for the headliner, the only screws I removed were two in the little light above the rear hatch. There are a few plastic plugs that need to be popped out in the field of the headliner but they're obvious. That was enough on my 2000 OB LTD to enable me to reach up to disconnect the tubing on both rear corners and blow it out. When I put it back on, I added a small hose clamp (gently tightened) on the passenger side and a zip tie on the driver's side since that's all I could reach up there to do. the clamps are probably unnecessary. Hope that's clear! As I said, mine is a 2000 LTD...other models might vary. As many others have posted; it's not hard, just a little time consuming. Thanks again for all help!

Sorry Karak, I can't answer that but I can say that my sunroof only leaked when there was a lot of rain. I think because only one of the drains was clogged. I did manage to get the two rear drains cleared out without removing all of the headliner. I loosened it on one side from the rear door back and along the back and that was enough to reach both and blow them out. I only managed to lose one piece of the car in the process! While the headliner was half down I ran a couple of hair dryers on it for an hour or so and got it dried out. Thanks for all help. I've been having trouble with the board giving me messages like many lines of this: Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /home/admin/domains/ultimatesubaru.org/public_html/forum/showthread.php on line 639 when I try to post so hopefully this will go thru....

Thanks Heartless, I can't make much out of those pics but maybe they'll mean more when/if I take my headliner down. As I mentioned earlier, I DO have a 2000 OB LTD and I DO have two operating sunroofs. (Don't use either, wish I had neither) I tried pouring water in the tray and while I had water draining out the front drain under the car, it came thru the headliner seatbelt thing in the back. I suspect that means a clogged drain.... Can I blow them out from the exit point of the drain? Meanwhile I'm looking for instructions on how to remove teh headliner. I see references to pillars A,B,C.... I have no idea which one is which and being a carpenter not a mechanic I'm scratching my head over where to start. Good thing I'm out of work and have time for this, eh?

Hmmm, still wanting to make this easier and since it's forecast to be 99 here tomorrow, I'm reading back thru the old threads I'd saved and this one suggests I might get away with just blowing it out with compressed air: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67335&highlight=leaking+sunroof I think I'd like to try that. I have a compressor and air gun....I guess I just sort of point it at the back corners? I might have some handy tubing that I could attach to the gun nose too. I'll try this in the AM and report back.

I guess I was under the impression from other threads that I could get to them from above with out removing the head-liner. Two kayaks on the roof now so I'm using that excuse to procrastinate...

I did do that search and I realize that it could be the sealant factor but the more common problem and easier fix from what I read was the sunroof drains. I just can't find anyone saying how to get to those drains....

Trying to bump this thread as I have a 2000 OB which also has a leaking sunroof. I read about the drain lines and different ways of unclogging them but I can't see any drain holes. I assume they're in the corners I can't see. Can someone help with the steps to getting to the drain holes so I can try unclogging them? I'd read in some other thread/forum that all I needed to do was remove two brass nuts.... I don't see them. OB is a 2000 LTD Thanks, John

I'm replacing the power steering pump on my OB. The old one's off, the new one's on but the kit didn't seem to have two matching o-rings that go on the fill tube assembly. There is one in the bag of o-rings that looks like a close match but only one. The rebuilt pump I bought came with temporary plastic fittings to seal the various apertures and when I removed the plastic bolt that sealed the outlet hole it had an o-ring on it that seems pretty close to the missing one on the fill tube. (it also had a flat fiber-washer gasket). The original outlet tube connection seemed to have no gaskets or o-rings on it when I took it off. Would the manufacturer have used the o-ring for the fill tube on the temp outlet plug? Also, is the outlet tube fitting supposed to have any o-rings or gaskets? Here is a link to an expanded view of the pump. In this pic the inlet tube assembly is not removed (where clamp #3 would attach) and the outlet tube assembly (#6+8) refers to #8 as a "gasket" but it looks more like a metal clip to me and is not either of the parts I'm referring to in the above question. http://xrl.in/8qhx I have another question about the belt but I'll ask that separately. Thanks, John

Rooster2, I am the original poster and I realize it could be more than just the o-rings but there's a good chance that's all it is and they're so easy and cheap to change out that it seems worth a shot. I was approaching it thinking that maybe there was something more but when I saw the fresh fluid around that fitting and in lieu of the info in my original link, I'm really hopeful that's it. I'll let you all know when I get it resolved and the water will get too cold for fishing before long so I should be able to get to it....

Everyone loves it when what they already believe is confirmed and I admit I've never stopped thinking that the ps problem as Justin laid it out in my original link is exactly what is happening with my car. If I can't find the rings close to me I'll contact him and see if he'll sell me a couple. It's possible that just taking it apart and putting it back together today will "re-set" the fitting and stop the leak but it seemed to go in without much friction so I don't think the rings are making a very tight seal. johnceggleston, if the o-ring replacement doesn't work I'll contact your source for a new pump but I'm going to try the rings first. Thanks for the help everyone! John

Really? Even though it's cheap and easy it couldn't be as cheap and easy as replacing the o-rings could it?

I would do that in a heartbeat if it were easy. The only dealer in Charleston doesn't have them in stock and I was never clear that we were talking about the same o-rings. He gave me a part # 34439ae00a to which I can find no references at all. I tried another dealer a couple of hrs away and they gave me a different part # 34621ac021. He also seemed to have trouble looking up the part. I found this schematic of the ps pump on a subaru site but they don't break it down enough to show these o-rings. http://tinyurl.com/24k5fhu

Wanting to re-open this thread with new info/question... I wasnt' having success trying to get the air out of my ps but on the latest inspection I realized it's leaking fluid (maybe taking in air) and it seems to be leaking out of the top fitting on the pump. There's a rubber hose that goes from the bottom of the reservoir to a fitting on the top of the pump. I assume that is the fluid return or intake line. The fitting is held on with a T-30 bolt. I took that fitting off and I see that there's two O-rings where it inserts into the pump body. I'm assuming I need to replace those rings. Do I need to go to a Subaru dealer to get these or is there an easier way? (dealer is 30 to 40 mins away) If I call and ask if they're in stock, what should I be asking for? Thanks again for all help, John PS: I know it's taking me a long time to get this done but it is fishing season here....

Maybe I'll have time to try this this weekend. Not being an experienced mechanic, there's a real possibility I'd over-tightened the belt....

Ah, got it. Thanks.

OK, I had an old email address registered with this forum. Fixed that so I should be appraised of replies from now on. Old German folk saying: We get too late smart and too soon old.

Sorry to have ignored all these replies...for some reason the board has not notified me of them (though I have instant email notification enabled) so I thought there were none. I'd added more fluid (it was at the minimum level) but that doesn't seem to make any difference. I'll try the turkey baster method when I have time. It seems too much a coincidence that the "moaning" started right after I messed with the hose/belts. Then when I found the site I linked to in my original post it seemed like exactly what was going on. It did seem to me that I had the shroud pulled over too tightly to the right and that that would put pressure on the PS line. Legacy777...you say make sure to use dexrtonIII but that IV or V is fine...so which is it? I need to use III or III, IV or V? I may not have time to mess with this over the next few days. The good news is I finally have some work! Thanks, John

2000 OB LTD w/100K I had a hose break while up in the mtns about 2 months ago and it sprayed radiator fluid all over the belts. I replaced the hose and cleaned off the belts (which were nearly new) and all seemed ok except there seemed to be a slight noise associated with the power steering. Once home the noise seemed to increase and searching around I found this site: http://tinyurl.com/yel97e7 This seemed to be my situation and I did notice that I'd put pressure on the ps return tube. So I re-adjusted the shroud but didn't bleed the system hoping to avoid any real effort as I gather the air sometimes works its way out on its own. Now the ps has gotten louder and very consistently making noise. It makes noise as soon as I start turning the wheel (with the car sitting still) and gets louder as I move towards locking the wheel to either direction. I read up on how to bleed the system (I *think* I follow which lines to disconnect) and I'll do so when I get some proper replacement fluid but how do I know if fluid is leaking or if air is still getting in? It's goopy both around the pump and the resivoir connections but I never did an engine cleaning so that might be residual fluid from 2 months ago? Fluid level is at the cold min line so it might be low....I know dexron 3 atf is recommended but manual also says "never use different brands together" Important? How do I know what's in there now? Also from researching other posts I see some recs for Lucas oil product. Is that this stuff: http://tinyurl.com/q9agh Sorry for the long post but I'm trying to get all the info out there. Thanks, John

Two good warnings already! Hmmm, I was afraid of that... bard, I'm not worried about the credit card aspect, I have a two credit cards that I carry balances on because they gave me permanent 2.99% and 3.99% rates. Besides, should I care about how they paid for the car as long as I get clear title? Thanks for the warnings. I'll heed them. John

Continuing my hunt for a used OB I can both afford and enjoy I came across one with this description: i am second owner of the subaru i bought it st 30 something thousand miles. early this year about may, we had a lot of rain here in GA. as i was driving from work one evening i went along a road that was still had high water i slowed down but kept driving. water got in the car and soaked the carpet the seats never got wet. it was less than a 3 gallons of water that caused this problem i drove home and everything was fine but then when i shut the car off next day it wouldn't start we took it to Subaru in Decatur GA and they told us the main computer had got wet i told them it drove fine but it indeed had got water damage. the computer lies up against the passenger side foot floor board well it was going to cost 2000 for a new computer & labor but they said we could claim it under the insurance so we did and the minute we said the computer got wet they totaled it out leaving me with the balance of the car note due to the credit card CO. so we bought the car from the insurance CO. and made the repairs out of our pocket we replaced the computer and the carpet it runs like it did before the computer was changed everything is still original equipment minus a used computer and carpet it does not smell or look like the car had any problem with water i had to get a state inspection done to make it road legal because the insurance CO. gave me a salvage title so all inspections have been doen it is now registerable in any state buyer or bidder can arrange to get a pre sale inspection at the dealer some of the pictures i have here are of damaged parts like mirror and scrathes on the car everything else is mint i will help with shipping or will deliver for the right price and one way ticket this will be cheaper than freight or you can pick it up we still drive it every day to work and such keep in mind the car belongs to my wife and is free of any leans because we bought it with a credit card, interest was mush lower do a car fax on the VIN (4s3bh675527636803) it will prove it was not a victim of the hurricane in new Orleans it has good GA title Would I be crazy to consider this car? Can it be checked out well enough if I found an able mechanic or would the problems be too hard to predict? It's an 02 with 60K miles. Thanks, John