srponies

As far as the torque converter bolts - I went through the top hole also. I just used a socket and small breaker bar to get it loose, then backed the bolts out by hand. When I reassembled trans to engine, I made sure the converter & drive/flex plate bolt holes were close to lined up before bolting the trans to the engine. Then it was easy to get the converter bolts in. This car did have (I sold it a few months ago) the same tires on it when I had it. I think that it may have just had a bad front (output shaft) seal that someone didn't keep up with. The front differential area was basically bone dry (except for the cooked on gear oil sludge). A bit of driving without gear oil and I'm sure it heated up until it sheared apart. Steve

89hatch - PM sent Steve

I swapped the trans in my '98 OBW a while ago (bought it with bad trans). Today I pulled the original trans apart to part it out. I found the reason that the car wouldn't even move with the FWD fuse in. Photos attached. Quite amazing! I think that it had been run without gear oil for some time. Not much left of that pinion gear.... Yikes! Steve

Just got an email update from her. The engine comes with a 3 yr, 36k mile warranty. Sounds like she should be set for a while, hopefully. Steve H.

Thanks for the info. Just like "Sweet82", I am wondering about what warranty they would put on this motor. I would hope at least 12month, 12k miles minimum on parts and labor. I'll have to wait until I get a follow email regarding her car. Steve H.

Hi guys - posting for recommendations for my MILs sister. She is wondering what she should be asking/getting from the dealer when she picks up her car. She has an '01 Forester with 78k miles (and 80k extended warranty). Recently the engine was noisy, upon taking to the dealership, it was found that the #4 rod bearing was bad. They are apparently putting in a "reconditioned" engine (under warranty). I suggested getting engine warranty information, in writing, on the service invoice. Also verifying that her engine was replaced, not repaired at the dealership. And finding out about "break-in" procedures. I suggested she make a list of questions/concerns/requests and call the dealership to talk to service before going to pick up her car. Any other ideas for this situation. Thanks, Steve H.

I realize that I am quite honest compared to some when selling cars, but as far as the 2.2 swap is concerned, I don't think it will be an issue unless I bring it up. I know that many people do some research on a particular make/model when they're getting ready to buy, but many others are just out shopping for something in their price range. I am hoping to just go with the fact that all of the maintenance has been done on the car and it should last a long time, and not go to the fact that I swapped in a 2.2 because it's a more reliable motor. I also think that because the 2.2 was offered in these cars that's it's not as likely someone will question why it's in there. Just what I'm thinking right now. I'll have to see what happens when it's on the market. Steve H.

I'm going to be selling my '98 Outback wagon Limited early next month and have to figure out an asking price for it. I realize that there's blue book, etc., but they really vary. The car has 115k, auto trans, leather heated seats, AM/FM/CD, Subaru subwoofers, single sunroof, rear spoiler, and a ski rack on top. Edmunds.com says private party is $5400, KBB.com says $6700. This is based upon good/clean condition. I suppose that I could check Ebay for completed listings of similar cars. I just got done swapping in a '95 2.2 with 95k miles. It got a full tune up, with timing belt, WP, Tstat, oil pump seal, cam & crank seals, oil sep. plate, trans filter, and front diff fluid, plugs and PCV valve. Also front rotors & pads. The car should be ready to drive for a long while with only minor maintenance. I could probably post some photos of the car if that would help... Anyhow, Thanks for any ideas, Steve H.

Today I started it up and it ran great. It was idling high (1700), but I did a quick TB clean and it dropped to about 700. Purrs like a kitten. I was able to take the car around the block. The trans shifts beautifully, the car drove well except the front rotors are warped. Very happy with this engine and trans swap. It took a little while to prep the engine, but the car should be good to drive for a long time to come. Alltogether I've got about $3k invested in this car and I think that it's worth quite a bit more. Just need to do a little detailing now and it'll be complete. Steve H.

I had it up on jack stands in the front. Hopefully I'll get a chance to take it for a drive tomorrow. I'd prefer no more surprises. Steve

(BTW - longish post) Last night I finished up with the last part of my engine/trans swap ('95 Imp 2.2 into '98 OBW). The engine started right up and sounded good. I shut it off after 3 min. and called it a night. Today I wanted to run it for a while more. I started it up (added a few qts. trans fluid.) and just let it run for a few. After about 10 min I heard the fans kick on - the temp gauge was up at the H. I tried to add some A/F to the radiator and got lots of small bubbles. I thought UGH, HG problem. Then I figured that maybe if I turned on the heat it would bring the temp down. Well by golly- there was no heat. I turned off the car and let it cool for 30 min. Then I added another QT A/F and started it up. I burped/squeezed the coolant hoses to the heater core - then all of a sudden the heat worked. I had worked out that air bubble. The temp guage went down to the 1/3-1/2 area and all seems good. Well I hope that everything is ok. I still have to get the car down off the jack stands and take it for a drive. Thanks for all of the helpful information. I'll post back to let you know how the rest goes. Thanks again, Steve H.

I would imagine that most of the engine swaps are done when the 2.5 head gasket(s) decide to blow. Then the owner faces the decision of repairing the 2.5 or swapping in the 2.2. For me - the 2.5 in my '98 OBW has an internal noise, so I found a '95 2.2 (w/90k) locally for $350, then put an additional $100 in parts on it before putting it in. Should last for a long time. The engine has to come out either way... it's just your choice on the amount you want to spend and the amount of downtime that you have. Steve H.

I'm in the middle of the same swap. What did you do about the 2.2 vac. hoses for the charcoal cannister? Did you plug them, or Tee them in somewhere? Hopefully I'll be installing my engine tomorrow. Thanks, Steve H.

I thought so too. The original antenna has a (smaller than std.) female socket with a small pin protruding in the center. Different than a std. female antenna socket that would also have a small female hole within it. (Does that make sense?) I may go to radio shack tomorrow and see if they have any antenna ends that can be spliced on. Do you think that the different antenna cable ends would have anything to do with the weather band radio? Thanks, Steve H.

I'm replacing the power antenna unit on my '98 Legacy OBW. The original mast was missing and the mast tube damaged. I bought a Metra RoadWorks AW-PW12 power antenna from Autozone for $40. It fits the factory location great, but the antenna coaxial cable has a different end on it than the Subaru end. I'm wondering if anyone has installed one of these, and if so what they did to plug in the antenna wire. I may just have to visit a stereo shop to check out what different antenna adapters they have. Thanks for any info. Steve H.

Pickle fork to the rescue.... was able to get the ball joint separated from the control arm (once I got the cotter pin out (in 6 pcs.)). I did try prying with a large prybar as well as hammering on a large pipe vertically onto the control arm - nothing budging either way. Thanks for all of the ideas. Steve H.

I did release one side, and I just went out to give it a good spray of PB Blaster. I'll try again in the morning. If that doesn't work, I'll go another route. Next would be either the ball joint to control arm, the 2 strut bolts (and tie rod), or maybe one of the control arm bushing bolts (front I think). Thanks, Steve H.

I'm in the middle of the engine & trans removal on my '98 OBW (AWD) and trying to remove the front axles. Already have the spring pins out. I pulled the BJ pinch bolt out of each spindle (and sprayed with WD40), but I can't get the ball joint and spindle to separate (even with a big pry bar). Do I just pop off the lower ball joint nut and try to pop it out of the control arm? Is that any easier? I really don't want to chance ruining the dust boot. Hopefully tomorrow it will come out after soaking all night. All I really need is one side to pop, once that axle is out I can shift the trans over to get the other. Any ideas appreciated, Steve H.:-\

I'd imagine the dog is extra. I'll have to ask if they'll include him when I go pick up the car next week. Steve H.

Can never have enough projects... I'm on a role now with another OBW. I'm in the middle of the engine & trans swap on my '98... now I've got this to work on: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.ebay.com%3A80%2Fsearch%2Fsearch.dll%3Ffrom%3DR40%26satitle%3D4612003753%26fvi%3D1&item=4612003753 or www.ebay.com Item # 4612003753 Hopefully just a pair of headgaskets will do the trick. Previous owner said the timing belt and W/P were done last year, and it's had recent tires and a rebuilt trans. My wife says that I need to finish the '98 and put it up for sale before I focus on this one. We'll see. Thanks for all of the help and info so far. I'm sure I'll have more questions to answer. Steve H.

Thanks for the ideas. The pan looks to be in good shape, and I think that after draining the trans I filled it with about 6 Qts. fresh fluid. After warming it up for a few minutes, the fluid was at the proper level on the dipstick. Along with slipping badly, the trans still makes a grinding sound when trying to put it in park, so it's getting swapped nomatter what. I may disassemble the thing once the rest of the project is done. Steve H.

Bought my '98 OBW about a month ago with a "bad trans". The car shuttered very badly when I moved it in the driveway. I ordered and picked up a used trans last week, but decided to mess around with this trans one last time before pulling it. I drained the fluid , which was almost black, and refilled with fresh. Then I put the FWD fuse in... and the car didn't want to move at all. Pulling the fuse out the car tried to move, but the trans was slipping badly. So, I'm not sure what I was expecting (maybe miracle trans repair), but it was one last move around the driveway before the engine and trans come out for a swap. Hopefully the replacement works a bit better. Steve H.

Almost 100 different parts from this car on Ebay. For more info check the Ebay/Craigslist section. Thought someone might be interested. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52466 Steve H. (Not affiliated with seller)

Thanks. Any idea how to verify this? Is there a tag somewhere or is it just based on the trans part number or something? I Thanks again, Steve H.

Yeah! - that's one less concern now. The '95 2.2 is dual port. I had planned to pull the other motor and trans by now, but I've been busy working on my MIL's Camry. I haven't been able to assess what parts the 2.2 needs yet, but hopefully next week I'll get to it. One other question... I'm swapping both the engine and trans, so I'm assuming that I'd pull the old parts out together. Not sure if there is an easier way to do both. Thanks again for the great information, Steve H.