srponies

Just bought a used motor - '95 2.2 from an Impreza (automatic) to put in my '98 OBW that has the 2.5. The 2.2 I bought didn't have the exhaust manifolds included, so I'm wondering if the 2.5 exhaust manifolds will bolt to the 2.2 heads. Or am I going to have to find a set of '95 2.2 exhaust manifolds? Thanks for any info, Steve H.

I'm getting ready to do the ('98)2.5 to ('95) 2.2 swap and need to prep the motor before it goes in. Does anyone have the part number for the aluminum/alloy seperator plate for the back of the block? I want to be a little prepared before venturing to the dealer. Thanks, Steve H.

Well I just ordered a replacement engine and trans from a local salvage yard. Engine is a '95 Impreza 2.2 w/ 95k on it. Trans is from a '98 Legacy w/ 110k on it. They were $350 each and come with a 6 month (parts) warranty. I should have them by Tuesday. That should give me time this weekend to shop for some maintenance/repair parts (Timing belt, WP, seals, filters, etc) and maybe get started on pulling the old engine/trans. The trans is in definite need of replacement, the engine just has that vibration and the internal noise. I can't trust it, and hopefully the replacement will be a definite improvement. I'll keep you posted on this swap. Thanks for all the information, Steve H.

I just edited my previous post before I saw your response... The clatter type noise (when cold) is apparent from 1500-2k. The vibration comes in around 1800, disappears, then comes back above 2500. I was listening all over the engine, but heard the dunkdunk noise loudest on #1 cylinder/block area, about 2" from the head gasket surface. I did pull the #2 plug wire (at the coil), but only succeeded in slightly panicking and the engine sputtered and quit - didn't notice any difference in noise (but I was a bit focused on the large spark coming out of the coil). I haven't changed the oil yet. It looks clean, and according to the Oil Express windshield sticker, only has about 500 miles on it. I think that the plugs are aftermarket (Autolite) and the plug wires are Beck-Arnley. The coil looks replaced, too. BTW- all of the heater control lights work and the seat heater toggle lights work, too. Thanks, Steve H.

What about an excessive backpressure problem due to a clogged converter. Would cause low/no power. Just a thought, Steve H.

I had a chance to work on the car last night. Pulled #2&4 plugs, they looked good - although a little dark. Compression test on that side - 180 ea. cylinder. Put it back together and started it up. Loud noise on pass. side - found loose Y-pipe heat shield. Put a clamp around it and the car idled quietly, but not perfectly smooth. No CEL now. I cleaned the throttle body- that seemed to help. A few things I'm concerned with: First - the engine has a slight vibration (misfire?) around 1800rpm and then again around 2500rpm. The airbox by the TB vibrates and you can feel it in the drivers seat. Second, when I loaded the engine (via alternator) by turning on all accessories, I am hearing a quiet "dunk dunk dunk dunk" sound from the #1 cylinder area (used a stethoscope). Also, the engine has cam cover, oil pan, and rear main area oil leaks.BTW - the antifreeze in the reservoir had no bubbles while running and is bright green. Haven't tested for exhaust gasses in the coolant yet. Next plan is to pull the timing covers and verify timing marks. Also going to pull 1&3 plugs. Another thing to add... when the engine is cold and the RPM is held between 1500 and 2k, the engine sounds a little like a quiet diesel. I think that's the piston slap going on (but not certain). That $350 2.2 engine and $350 trans are looking pretty good right now. Thanks for any ideas, Steve H.

Guess I'll have to check those out and add them to the list. Besides the engine & trans issues the car needs - antenna replaced, frt. LH turn signal assy., front cup holder, minor detailing. Not all too bad. Paid $1700. Steve

Photos of the car before I bought it: Edit - looks like the website replaced some of the photos of my car with Chevy Blazer pics (the nerve of them) - Edit http://www.waukeganautoauction.com/inventory_show.asp?stknum=36071&show=1 Hope the link works, Edit- Oh well - Steve

I was just fiddling with the car and found a few things. I remembered another reason that I was going to replace the trans.... it intermittently won't go into Park. The shifter (handle) moves into position, but the car makes a horrible noise like the parking pawl is trying to catch and just grinds. After that the car may just roll around, not locked in park. Has happened about half of the time I've driven it (load it on trailer, unload it, move it around the driveway, etc.) I checked the code from the CEL and it's P0500, vehicle speed sensor A malfunction. Looks like it's the speed sensor that helps control the AWD. I'll have to do some research on that, too. Steve H.

When you say mud do you mean chocolate milk shake oil-A/F concoction? Didn't seem to be like that, but the level was really low and it was dark in the reservoir. I have an HC tester, so I'll check for exhaust gasses too. I was just pulling the intake off and noticed the dipstick was gone for the front diff. Hope I didn't get any water in there when I pressure washed the engine compartment. I'll let you know how things are going when I find something. The car also has a rattle on the right side that sounds like a heat shield is loose on the exh. manifold or front cat. Thanks again for the info. Steve H.

I knew that I posted on here for a good reason.... I had been figuring to at least check on the CEL. Was also considering a drain and fill on the trans. I will plan to diagnose things correctly first, then repair/swap accordingly. I had also checked the coolant reservoir and it was low, so I was suspecting a head gasket failure. And I was thinking of doing a compression test, but looks like it would take me as long to do that as it would to pull the engine. The local yard said it would only take them 2 days to get me both the engine and trans, so I'll just call them at the appropriate time if needed. I'll be going to Autozone this evening to see if I can rent a scanner to pull codes. I'll also pick up some trans fluid. Thanks for the ideas and info, Steve H.

I bought '98 Outback Wagon Ltd. 2 weeks ago at a local auction. The car has 115k, is fully loaded, and has a "bad trans". It also has an engine vibration/misfire and check engine light on. I have no service or maintenance history with the car. I bought this car with the intention of fixing it and reselling it. The body and interior are very clean, and it is loaded with options. I've been doing a lot of reading regarding problems with these (torque bind and head gasket failure). I found a '95 2.2L for $350 and a replacement used trans for the same price, so I'm thinking of just swapping both. I will check the CEL first, because maybe the engine misfire is just a plug wire or sensor, but I wouldn't want to leave anything that I miss for the next owner (like a deteriorating HG). Engine is also somewhat noisy. The current trans is low on fluid, and the fluid color is brown (not so good). The car moves, but movement is almost like a shutter/bind. What are the thoughts out there? Just swap it out or diagnose and repair. Thanks, Steve H.

From the information I've gathered regarding a similar swap, the 2.2 has a different front Y-pipe than the 2.5 . This is because the 2.2 heads have a single port compared to the dual port on the 2.5. Find yourself a used 2.2 Y-pipe to install when you do the swap, and everything else should be straightforward. Maybe try the classifieds here on the USMB, or try www.car-part.com for something at a salvage yard. Good Luck, Steve H.

That's the one. Just need get my priorities in order regarding the car, then look at buying one. (I should probably fix the engine & trans first, then worry about the keyless entry). Thanks for the info. Steve H.

Nope - not that one. That looks like the newer style for 99+. Mine is rectangular with 2 square buttons. I spoke to the local dealer a few minutes ago. They said that as long as the style is correct for the year/model, then it will work. But, they said the transmitter had to be programmed at the dealer (for $55). He mentioned that he thought they had to hook up some sort of equipment to do it, but he (the parts guy)wasn't completely sure. I'm not so sure about that either. Thanks, Steve H.

My '98 OBW has a keyless entry system, but I don't have any transmitters. I have located the receiver under the dash as well as the reprogramming button. I also copied down the FCC number from the receiver, but haven't been able to find any transmitters (on Ebay) with a matching code. Any other sources for this part, other than the dealer? Also - the large wire harness at the top of the receiver was unplugged. I plugged it back in, but a relay in the receiver began continuously clicking (like a turn signal relay). So I unplugged it again for now. Any ideas on this one? Should I just buy one of the cheap ($10) transmitters on Ebay an see if I can program it? Thanks for any info. Steve H.

I just have a question to help me clarify regarding the exhaust manifolds on single port vs. dual port. It was mentioned that as long as you keep the single port manifolds on the single port motor ('96-'98), it will install fine. Same with the '95 dual port. So both will bolt up to the existing ('98 2.5) head/front exhaust Y-pipe? Guess what I'm saying is...Is it correct that if you install a 2.2 95-98 complete with exhaust manifolds it will bolt to the stock '98 2.5 Y-pipe? Did I confuse anyone other than myself here? Thanks for the info, Steve H.

What about blowing it out with an air nozzle to clear out some of the junk. Otherwise the loose garbage that's not dissolved just gets lodged back in there when you push the key in. Just an idea. I should probably try it on my own too. Steve H.

Good news! Well, I had a chance to work on it today. Sprayed some WD40 from the outside into the handle linkage area, then sprayed into the lock cylinder. Held the handle down and jiggled the key. Walla - the key turned slightly farther and the handle opened the hatch. Yeah!! I will still take the hatch interior cover off and check/adjust where needed, but at least I know that it does open. Thanks again for the help, Steve H.

Looks like I did a good job of double posting this... Oh well. Thanks for the info. I'll have to climb in the back some time this week and try to take things apart. Thanks again, Steve H.

Wow - Thanks for all of the info. I'll have to give these suggestions a try. Then I'll post back with an update on how it goes. Thanks again, Steve H.

Just bought an '98 Outback with a few issues. One problem is that the rear hatch won't open. The key seems to turn ok, and the handle has some resistance to it, but it still won't unlatch. How easy is it to remove the interior panel in order to gain access to the hatch innards? Has anyone had a similar problem? I imagine when I get the trim off that I'll be looking for bent or disconnected linkages. Also, when I use the power locks, I don't hear any movement in the hatch area. Any ideas on this are greatly appreciated, Steve H.

Just bought an '98 OBW with a few issues. One problem is that the rear hatch won't open. The key seems to turn correctly, but I don't hear any movement with the power lock function. I would imagine there will be access to the hatch innards if I take off the interior panel. Can anyone give some hints on removing this panel? Has anyone else had rear hatch opening problems? If I get the trim cover off, I'll just check for bent or disconnected linkages. Thanks for any ideas regarding this problem, Steve H.