hogweed

i sold him the forester a couple years ago and i thought it had been a 98. he told me it was a 99 so i wanted to re check.

thanks

i have the legacy GT trans and my friend has the 99 forester. we are trying to get his car fixed and wanted to know if the tranny from the GT will work in the forester. thank you all in advance for any and all help!

it seems that when i ground that single wire off what i thought was the temp sending unit the oil light stays on. this sending unit is next to the crank sensor right behind the EJ22 stamp. i don't see another single-wire sending unit on the motor anywhere.edit: after reviewing \several more threads it seems the sensor i need is under the intake on the pass side. i unplugged it and the gauge went all the way up, as was suggested but fairfax....when i cleaned it and plugged it back in i now have a blinking CEL

i will try that straight away....i switched out clusters with the same results so i suspect the gauge is ok. i just remembered we had to bypass the alarm under the dash so i'm beginning to think something was unplugged that shouldn't have been

looked at it today and tried the connector theory. it seems to be secure and i pulled it off and reinstalled it a few times in case it was corroded which it didn't appear to be. checked all the fuses and eyeballed all the connectors......didn't try the fuel sender yet because of stuff in the cargo area that i didn't feel like moving today!

finally have some time to check it out. i was going to put some more fuel in to see if the gauge would move but i found the filler neck had rusted through! i had one from the car the motor came out of that was good so i used it and now it should be fine to fill the tank. i'll check the connectors.... thank you

hello, i finally got around to the swap and everything is working except the fuel and temp gauges. temp gauge was "working" at first but reading too low; now it doesn't move. i tried a different cluster and it's the same. any thoughts on this issue? thank you in advance! gregg

i bought the 2000 impreza (lightly crashed, salvage certificate) a couple years ago. i fixed the damage but it has some more rust than i like and i have been undecided about going the rest of the way to get it titled again. i recently acquired a 2000 legacy outback with a seized 2.5 in it and thought i might be able to swap the 2.2 from the impreza into the legacy but i remember it gets a little more complicated as the years go up. any help/suggestions would be appropriated. both are 5 speed cars thank you gregg

no emissions where i live (for now) so i think i'll go with option 1

i have this 2000 impreza 2.2 5 speed i was going to fix but i think it may be too rusty, soooooooo i found a 2000 OBW 2.5 5 speed w/ a bad motor and i was thinking to use the 2.2. i read this will work....then i read it won't work....then it would work... will it work and anything i need to be aware of other than swapping the driver side sprockets? thx g

thank you, fellas! ok, so i don't think the trans in the 98 is bad i just thought i'd solve the clutch issue that way....but i got to thinking that even if i just swap motors the clutch on the 99 comes out when i pull that motor and can still go into the 98! now the question is which is easier to do: engine and trans together or just swap engines? i have to think the engine swap is the way to go

ok, so no-go on the 99 manual trans into the 98 outback wagon thank you

ok, i thought i had this figured out but i'm getting nervous! 2 outback wagons.... i have a 1999 30th anniversary obw 2.5 5 speed that's crashed but has a great drivetrain. i have another 1998 obw 2.5 5 speed that has a great body/int but has a bad engine. would this be a direct swap for engine and tranny? thanks in advance g

yup....legacy is dohc!! thanks that motor will go into a 97 legacy 2.5 dohc thought correct?

I was thinking of doing a 2.2 swap into the '99 forester but i just acquired a crashed 1999 legacy w/ 93k on the motor and some work already done to it. the numbers look close: legacy: XFJXVO2.5DCD forester: XFJXVO2.5HEG is this a direct swap? thank you in advance gregg

the inside of the rubber on the brake hose can deteriorate and prevent fluid from fully evacuating the caliper. had what i thought was a stuck caliper only to have the problem remain after i replaced the caliper.

i am prepping for this swap as well.....bad 97 obw w/ a 2.5 getting a 95 2.2 also need to do something w/ the 1999 forester but i'm thinking about headgaskets for that one. edit: your shop looks so clean it makes me want to cry

yeah, he'd be right next to the heap of urine-soaked, shredded upholstery

my friend had a 13' python and he would knock the mice unconscious before putting them in the cage because they could really hurt the snake if they were alive.

i prefer to not have a dead mouse hiding in my defroster vent

Tomcat makes a kit that has a couple glue traps and a 'live' catch mechanism. in that package is this green bait gel that is 50x better than anything i've ever seen. the mice in my shop gnawed the top off the bottle to get at it when i accidentally left it out (closed).....it seems it is like crack to them! http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2660318 throw that in the center of the glue trap and he'll be stuck there in the morning.

hard to tell without seeing the carnage but people use cable ties frequently to secure parts that get torn loose. if you have sufficient access a nut and through-bolt will work as well. and there is always duct tape for those of us who don't mind really obvious fastening

i thought i had really mushroomed it but once i sat the air hammer on it it came out. on assembly i couldn't get the holes to stay lined up nor get the pin to stay on the punch w/ tape....i kept looking at it (hoping to stare it in?) and i thought of that set up. worked like magic. thepunch centers everything the the nut keeps the force on the bottom surface of the pin

this is a good write up. the one thing i was not able to find was a good method to install the new roll pin. i pretty much destroyed the old one taking it out so i couldn't re-use it. i found the key to this was to use a punch that was slender enough to fit up through the center of the large, outer pin without getting stuck (1/8" punch). i also used a small nut with a shoulder on it to provide a flat surface to connect with the bottom side of the pin (shown below).... i used a 3/8" drive socket to hold the punch and an old extension to extend the tool in order to be able to hold it and strike it hard enough. the punch thru the pin helps keep the unit centered while hammering it up... hope this helps