daehttub2000

OK, here’s my last attempt to convince you to respect your mortality. Here’s a clip of a World Rally driver crashing on a jump. Remember, this is a Subaru WRX equipped with a full roll cage, racing suspension, full aero package, restraints, and helmets. A professional driver “slipped up” on this one. Your friend is just driving on dumb luck which is quickly running out. Sooner or later you’re going to bite the big one if you keep riding with your “friend.” I’m afraid it will be “sooner.” If you insist upon continuing this activity at least close off the roads/course to protect other people or use spotters. I am afraid you’re jumping blind in more ways than one. P.S. To the general USMB Board – I’m afraid we may have the opportunity to see natural selection at work here with the “thinning of the herd” if this kid keeps this up.

Repeated concussions degrade cognitive and physical ability. Translation: don't ride with your friend anymore. You did the right thing by trying to talk him out of it but if he's too much of a moron to listen to you, you need to find a real friend. He showed no regard for your safety. You don’t need “friends” like that. You’re just someone he can show off to. What has he done for you as a friend outside of driving like a maniac in his car? – this is a rhetorical question: I don’t need an answer but please think real hard about this one. The fact that this is the second WRX he’s wrecked should tell you something:banghead: . How old is this “friend”? I’ll assume he’s no older than 17 or 18 because if he’s older than that, there is a real problem here. When I was in high school, I had classmates who died in car crashes. However, the real tragedies are the classmates that survived and have had to live with their mistake for the rest of their lives in some permanently damaged physical and mental form. All kids your age think that they will “live forever” but think about how you want to live… You can be smart and safe and still have fun. Find a local Sport Car Club of America organization where you can learn to safely test the limits of driving in a controlled environment (autocross). IMHO, if you want a real cool adrenaline rush before you can legally drive, get into the amateur bicycle racing circuit (mountain or road). You can have the rush of speed, jumping, and crashing in a relatively safe environment. Go to the Tour de Nez in Reno on June 16th and see for yourself. Find a good spot on a 90 degree street corner and enjoy the carnage, er, fun:grin:

Your VW Passat and SVX are not channeling their power through an ancient live rear axle ... and rear wheel drive at that... hit a bump at speed through a corner and yikes The finely tuned German suspension and the AWD SVX are light years ahead of the old "fox" platform stangs of old... (that live axle is still around though...) Ah, the good old days of white knuckle driving, NOT...

To All World Rally Wannabes: In order to prevent post jump roll overs, WRX's require that huge double spoiler that comes on the Sti to prevent nose-down-roll-over-landings. Petter Solberg found that out when he damaged his spoiler and then proceeded to roll his WRX on the next big jump. There is a video clip someplace on the net that shows this. I'm also pretty sure that there are some additional suspension tweaks and aero mods that are required for safe(?) jumping... Not to mention a full roll cage....helmets...proper training...full medical and life insurance... I'll spare you the usual, obvious admonishments about knucklehead driving but PLEASE STOP RAISING MY INSURANCE RATES ON MY WRX!!! But seriously, I hope you and your friend learn from this mistake. Somebody upstairs is looking out for the both of you... Fools and children...

In the finest tradition of motorhead neanderthals I would recommend going for the higher displacement engine:grin: Of course I know beans about the compatibility issues for your Legacy so I defer to the experts on this board. The 2.0 that came with the 2002 WRX was a World Rally Championship displacement requirement (maximum allowed). Note how quickly Subaru switched to a 2.5 WRX. I love my 2.0 WRX but it's a boat anchor under 2,000 rpm:mad: My 2.2 Legacy is positively torquey at low rpm's compared to my 2.0 WRX. O.K. I know the 2.0 WRX is a low compression engine (for the Turbo) but I think you'll appreciate the low-end torque a lot more in normal everyday driving than the horsepower at the top end in a Legacy. The unknown history of the 2.2 is worrisome but they are good engines and can take a thrashing:rolleyes: Now, a moment of silence for your valiant Subie engine that gave its all to get you home...

Chances are he put in a Cold Air Intake with the actual intake behind the fender well (below water level) and the WRX hoovered up the water and killed the engine. D'oh!!! This guy was probably the kid that always rode his bike through puddles before checking how deep they were...

That's terrible. I always tell my friends not to buy their kids WRX's or let them borrow theirs for "special nights." It's simply too much car for novice (and judgement impaired) drivers. It reminds me years ago when a Ford executive told me that they called the 5.0 Mustang "kiddie-killers" and they had a real problem trying to balance performance with safety for some of the inexperienced drivers that were buying them. You would think that AWD, super handling, solid construction, and air bags might save some of those kids from their mistakes. On the otherhand, maybe it's precisely those features that gets them into trouble...

I hope I'm wrong on this but... I had the exact same problem of coolant pooling on top of my passenger side cylinder bank. It took me a while to notice it since the engine would be hot enough to boil it off (that antifreeze smell...). 95 Legacy 2.2 137,000 miles. My head gasket was getting old and was leaking coolant to the outside. A pressure test exposed the leak. Fortunately, nothing leaked to the inside and it was a "relatively" inexpensive repair job for both (just to be safe) head gaskets at an independent shop. Less than $1,000.

A final note on this little repair adventure: After the alternator and new battery, my corroded 12 year old negative cable finally called it quits (what timing!) so I had to replace it. I never imagined it would have been that much of a chore. Lots of electrical tape removal and replacement... I couldn't find a battery cable that had a complete ground wire and terminal connection so I had to cut the old Subaru ground and splice it to the flimsy 12-gauge female connector that came with the replacement cable. The cheesy little male connecters in the auto parts stores did not accommodate the huge 8(?) gauge Subie ground wire. I crimped the bare subie wire into the female connector and used a lot of electrical tape to seal it up. Is this a good idea or is this going to cause me problems down the road? Also, is the flimsy 12-gauge ground on the new battery cable too small for a Subie? What I don't understand is with such a massive ground wire, why are the Subie battery terminal connectors so thin and flimsy? At least the battery cable replacement has some major league terminal connectors. I used the felt protectors and the spray-on terminal cleaner and spray-on terminal protectors time (about $5). I don't what to go through that again.:-\

Thanks for the tip. I'm getting a new battery today. I was thinking of the FRAM Oil filter commercial, "pay me now or pay me later..."

I find there is always some sort of positive nonverbal communication when I drive my WRX and pass other WRX drivers. What's funny is we often pull up next to one another and check out the visible mods on the cars. We're all just a bit rally crazy I guess:burnout: Nothing much happens when I drive the old wagon since there are a zillion Legacy wagons of my make, model, and color in Chicago. What's funny, is that some of my friends would honk at me when they saw me in traffic when I first got my wagon in 95. Problem was, it was never me ... so if you ever got honked at for no reason in Chicago...

I replaced the alternator and all the warning lights are gone. I had no idea the alternator failure would also cause the brake lights to go on. I was surprised at how easy the alternator replacement was. With the labor money I saved I probably ought to buy a new battery:rolleyes: Thanks again for all your help! P.S. Both Autozone and PepBoys priced the alternator at $138. With Chicago tax it came out to $158. Ouch! That's with the old alternator exchange and a limited lifetime warranty. Looks like they use the same supplier. P.P.S. I'm noticing some differences between the Chilton and Haynes manuals. I'm finding that I like the Haynes pictures and more detailed instructions better.

I had the drivers side front CV/boot/axle replaced last Sunday at Pep Boys. The second time I drove the car after the Pep Boys repair the Battery and Brake warning lights came on. I’ve never had warning lights before. Coincidence? Ham-fisted journeyman mechanics? What do you think? Some of you cautioned me about using Pep Boys. Maybe you were right. I just found a Chicagoland Checkbook survey that showed a 19% satisfaction survey for Pep Boys. Doh! 95 Legacy L Wagon 150,000+ miles. Battery is just under 5 years old but topped off monthly with trickle charger when not driven frequently. Original alternator. New Rotors and brake pads at 122K. No prior warning lights ever. Belts look good. Replaced with timing belt around 122K. Brakes: Brakes feel fine. Car stops fine. I topped off the brake fluid just in case but the light is still on (fluid was midway between max and min). Battery: When the car has been parked for a while, I notice the headlights dim slightly at night on the rear of the car ahead of me when I press the brake pedal at a traffic light. I just had trouble starting it tonight for the first time. I had to use the battery charger on high for a couple of hours to get it started. The negative (black) battery connected is all bent up from a clumsy battery change from the Subie Dealer (chuckleheads, long story) and doesn’t tighten anymore. It needs crimping or replacement. I had no battery warning light when the first battery in my Subaru died after 7 years. O.K. I know 5 years is the upper limit of battery life:rolleyes: . I’m going to check the alternator connections in the morning just to make sure it isn’t something simple (a long time ago, an unplugged alternator caused me some grief). Should I play the irate customer when I bring my car back to Pep Boys? I’m thinking they could have goofed something in the brake system up when they were messing with the CV/axle. The battery light and recent problems have me perplexed as to the timing. Why now?

I have a slightly embarassing update on my CV/Axle repair. My Legacy is amazingly quiet on the highway now:rolleyes: It's amazing what I tend to get used to and ignore...

Here's an excellent thread on replacing those @#* Second Generation switch and climate control bulbs in Legacies. Hopefully it will help with your Impreza. I think you have some of the same switch gear. Some of the links in the thread come with photos... You can use either the radio shack bulbs - some "assembly" required or save some time and pay for the dealer bulbs (careful, not all Subie Dealer part people know what to order and may invariably give you giant bulbs to something else rather than the tiny diode type bulbs). http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2498&page=1&pp=10&highlight=clima te+control+backlight I was particularly impressed with this link: http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sho...hp?threadid=91 Good luck.

Thanks for the input. I checked out the Better Business Bureau and my Pep Boys location didn't have any complaints. I did see a few from around the country on other "venting" websites but it looks like everyone gets complaints. The parent company has the "Satisfactory" rating from the BBB but so does Sears Auto...:-\ I buy a lot of my car parts and supplies from here and they always seem to have full service bays. The guys at the desk are reasonably knowledgeable about Subies and one was a former 95 Legacy driver. I did get the CV boot and axle replaced this morning. Total tab was $168. I'll keep my ears open and will let you know how this works out. I have my fingers crossed.

Nipper, you have to remember that those poor Tiananmen Square protesters and students in the labor camps and slave labor factories are now 17 years older and long-term torture tends to diminish their quality of work. When you get one day out of thirty off and no health care, it’s tough to do quality work. I’d also use a Geiger counter or lead detector on cheap metal products from China. Somebody’s buying cheap scrap metal from the old Soviet Navy… Look for the Union Label (song) ...

Good News. I called around and found a PepBoys with a service bay that will do my CV Boot and Axle replacement for $140-$160 total with a lifetime warranty on the remanufactured axle. $60 axle, $60 labor, remainder for CV boot stuff and any possible extra labor. There is a $50 "core" deposit that I get back to net the cost out to $140-$160. It would be $50 higher otherwise. Sounds like PepBoys is in the used/remanufactured parts business. Firestone was $315 and the Subaru dealership said it would be at least $315 if not higher. I think I'll use Pep Boys more if this works out O.K. I'm taking it in tomorrow.

This is an awesome board. Thanks for all your input and offers of help. I am running low on cheese curds so I may head up into Wisconsin sometime soon Gloyale:grin: Nipper: Doh! I am afraid of making that mistake so I’m taking my time on this one. The CV boot is on the inside of the driver side front wheel. There is a clean split where the boot cover separated from the wheel. There is still a ton of grease inside the alloy wheels that came out of the boot/axle and it’s making no noise. If there is a way to just replace the CV boot cover without messing with the axle, I’m all for it. I’m thinking of going to Autozone to pick up some grease to tide me over until I figure out what to do. In the interim, the old girl is parked in the stable. Good thing the snow has melted in Chicago and the Salt trucks are no where to be seen…

I was unpleasantly surprised by a torn CV boot while my tires were being checked:mad: It happened sometime over the winter when I was plowing through some deep snow:rolleyes: Two shops have told me that I should pay the $315+ to get the axle replaced at the same time the CV boot cover is replaced. The charge for the CV boot cover only is $270! I really don’t want to spend that money on a 12 year old car and I recall torn CV boot covers being replaced for considerably less (not my first CV boot cover). Am I being taken for a ride? The 95 AWD Legacy L Wagon has 150,000+ miles on the original axles. What would you do? Can I get by with a cheaper solution? Keep greasing the axle? CV boot solution that doesn’t require axle removal? Maybe I should stop beating on my Subie:-\

Nice "Bugeye"l WRX Wagon. Manual or automatic? If it's a manual, play dumb and ask the owner what mods you can do to make it go faster. Have the owner drive you around to show you what the car can do and watch if he downshifts into first while he's still moving at speed. That is a no-no and a widely reported source of WRX transmission problems. Check out the clutch and keep your nose tuned in to any burning smells. If it's an automatic, realize that it really slooooows down the WRX and requires to you use "brake starts" to get going. I'd personally stay away from automatic WRX's. Check the digital clock display on the dash and looks for signs that it's been pried out before (gauge pack add-ons or boost controller mountings = engine mods = beat upon Subie). There might be some warping and screwdriver marks in the plastic. Good luck! P.S. Great prior advice on the owner's age and underhood/chassis signs.

Edrach: Thanks for the compliment. I didn’t mean to diss the 1.8 liter. It’s just as a WRX driver, I now have a permanently warped perspective on speed now. That’s a neat tire size trick. Now that you mention it, I think there are some reviews that have hinted that WRX’s with 16 inch wheels might be a bit more nimble than ones with 17 inch wheels. Makes sense. 85Bratman: I think your WRX “toothpick transmission” comment is unfair. If he stays away from heavily modded engines he should be O.K. The threads I read are related to people downshifting from 2nd to 1st at speed. Anybody who has driven manual Subies knows that Subie synchronizers do not like that. Besides, I was taught never to downshift into first at speed. My 02 WRX 5spd manual is still going strong and I haven’t exactly been nice to it : )

My much-abused 95 Legacy L AWD wagon (4 discs) had slightly warped rotors approaching 90,000 miles. I could feel a slight pulsing when I braked hard. The pulsing got worse near the end but my brake shop mechanic (Meineke) told me it was nothing to worry about and I eventually replaced all 4 rotors at 122,000 when they were completely worn down. I used stock/generic parts and at 150,000+ there is no warping. I hauled a lot of people and gear around and spent a lot of time speeding through hubcap deep standing water, bumper high snow, and dinged up the underside (oil pans, cv boots, etc). At 150,000+ there is no warping now and I just use stock/generic parts. After reading the posts on this board, I’ll stay away from deep puddles now...

Great video. Here's a clip of a modified Justy that gives me the chuckles everytime I see it. Enjoy!

I drive both a 95 Legacy L Wagon AWD 5spd and an 02 Impreza WRX wagon 5spd. I think that both are terrific cars. My short answer for your “cheap” Corrado replacement is to get a used WRX. In terms of size and “spirit”, an Impreza would be a better fit for you than a Legacy. A WRX on full boost is an absolute laugh riot on the road. If you have the “G-lader” you’ll already have practice at keeping the revs up to get the most boost:rolleyes: A non-turbo 5 speed Impreza with a good 2.5 (see head gasket threads) would be a more affordable sporty choice but the AWD will make it seem a bit pokey compared to the Corrado, especially if you have the VR6. You might find a mildly flogged used WRX but look carefully and stay away from tweaked WRX’s (any engine/turbo/ecu monkey business). If you’re lucky, the worst risk you’ll face is replacing an abused clutch as the rest of the WRX is pretty bulletproof. You might get a good deal on a 2.0 WRX as the 2.5WRX’s have been out for a while now. General Impressions: Impreza compared to Legacy: Small, cramped interior, busier/sportier driving experience and tiny rear seat. The Impreza Wagon has limited cargo space with the seats up. The Wagon has tons of cargo space with the rear seats down but nowhere near the Legacy’s capacity. Note #1: Rear seats do not fold down in Impreza sedans. Note #2: in 02 and later, Impreza sedans have a wider wheelbase than the Impreza wagons. Also, if you thought a Legacy L was kind of a stripped base model, the Impreza will seem even more spartan. Legacy compared to Impreza: Comfortable, leisurely driver with loads of room and a good back seat (especially sans sun roof). I hear the Turbo Legacies are a blast to drive but they are pretty pricey. Engines: Largely identical 2.2’s and 2.5’s (Some 2.5 Turbo tuning differences). Some older Impreza’s had the 1.8 liter. The 1.8 was a snoozer. Only the Legacy gets the H6 and only the Impreza WRX had the 2.0 Turbo. There is a huge selection of aftermarket go-fast add-ons for Imprezas. Drivetrain: Largely identical (WRX/STi, and SpecB exceptions). Don’t get an automatic if you want a Sporty Impreza. An automatic combined with AWD really makes a Subaru lethargic IMHO. Some older Impreza’s and Legacy’s were 2WD only. Weight: The Impreza has a shorter wheelbase and it’s considerably smaller and lighter than the Legacy and a lot sportier and quicker given equivalent engines. Electrical: Different size stereo housing and consoles but underneath mostly identical (I think). General Reliability: Both the Impreza and Legacy very reliable (watch out for 2.5 head gaskets – see related threads). Impreza was once named most reliable small car (by CR I think). I think the Legacy had a tad more issues (bigger heavier car with same mechanicals probably). Legacy Presence at USMB: Subaru has sold a lot more Legacy’s than Imprezas (and more wagons than sedans!) so it follows that you’ll see more down-to-earth Legacy drivers here. If you are looking for the nitrous-addled Impreza crowd, you can peruse http://forums.nasioc.com/