rideordice

just did the 2.5 to 2.2 engine swap in my 96 outback. this was the easiest damn engine swap ive ever done. it was almost a complete plug an play. the only things i changed were the bracket that held on my a/c compressor and and the fly wheel. i used an engine from a 95 legacy sedan with an auto tranny. the engine had 73k miles on it and i got it for 300 bucks on CL. other posts have talked about problems with the power steering lines, if you just disconect them down buy the cross memeber instead of at the pump there is no issuse. car runs great i get 25 mpg in town and 30+ on the highway, probaby would be a little better if i had a lighter foot. as for power loss as far as i can tell doesnt exist. i raced my friend in her 98 forrester from 0 to 75 and it was for argument sakes even the whole way. took it DEQ after wards to get new tags they pluged into it and it went right through with no problems. car runs and drives great and im alot happier with this engine that seems to be bullet proof then the pos 2.5 that was in it. I know there are other issues with different year engines but the 95 droped right in and only took me a few hours to pull the old motor change those couple things and drop the new one in. can answer any questions any one has regarding this swap. And if any one that lives in portland Oregon is looking for a car or knoww some one who is this one is for sale, and the whole car is super clean and super straight. $6000 obo:headbang:

I am sending my heads out today to be machined and am calling around for head gaskets, there is a local import parts shop that i called and got a price on a head set. the guy i talked to seemed to be real informed about subarus and asked for the production date of my 96 outback which was 10/95 so it seems he knows what hes doing. i told him that i have been on line and have been told to use subaru head gaskets so i asked him what he thought if i should use them. he told me that he has rebuilt a few of these engines and knows there prone to blowing and he said that he has used the ones they sell an have used them in sand rails that were turbo'd and they hold up. he said that they are the same gaskets subaru uses and that they are produced by a company called "stone". there head set kit is 145 which isnt bad compared to other places i called, and subaru wants 45 dollars a side for head gaskets. he also told me that the head bolts are re-useable and are not torq to yeild. does any one know if there is any truth to what this guy has told me? my car is a 96 outback with a 2.5 dohc engine with 170K highway miles on it. any information, suggestions, or help with this matter would be awesome. i plan on selling the car after i get it back together. thanks. -Rideordice:horse:

that is a very helpful posting but i cant get any of the end wrench articles to come up on my computer. if there is any way you could e-mail me them that would be very helpful, my email adress is rideordice@hotmail.com thanks for the help

thanks alot that will get the ball rolling tonight so i can get them into the machine shop tomorow to get resurfaced. thank you

I have a 96 outback with the ej25 dohc engine, i have removed the engine as suggested have the timing covers off and the valve covers off and am ready to take the timing belt off but i dont want to mess up this interference engine, have been searching posts with no luck to find a clear description of how to remove the timing belt correctly as to not let the cams spin causeing the valves to hit the the piston or each other. this is the information i need, if any one knows how or can point me in a specific direction to find this info i would greatly appreciate it: -procedure to remove timing belt correctly -anyting to be carefull of while removing t-belt and heads -torque sequence and specs for torqing my heads -procedure to re-install my timing belt correctly this information, a link, or a specific direction to where to find this info would be awesome, i have a chiltons manual but it covers 11 years of cars and 12 different models and is vague and not very descriptive. thank you for your help this site is awesome and i give tons respect to those who answer us not so informed suby ownwers like my self. thanks.

i have a 96 outback with an auto tranny, what manual transmissions can i put into this car? will a 5-speed from a 98 legacy work? what problems do i face with wiring when converting? will i have warning indictor lights on? any info on this subject would be greatly appreciated. thanks.

ok, so with what has been said, sounds like new hg's will hold up just fine. but now there is some variation on which ones i should use.ball itch says to use 11044aa610 and wjm says to use sti hg's 11044a642. which is the best route? If one is better then the other ill use the better one even if it is not intended for my application, i just dont want to be tearing back in to this engine agian for the same thing, so i need to know that they will work for sure. also, i have dealed alot with the ea82 engines, and with those espically the the turbos, all of the heads are cracked. im not talking about the surface cracks, talking about the ones that travel down the head farther. are these heads at all the same way? should i be worried about them being cracked? and if so where is are they likely to crack at?

ok, bought a 96 outback for 2200 with 170k and blown head gasket symptoms, am up in the air about what to do. if i could find a 2.2 with low miles and 500 dollars or less i would swap it in but i dont want to wait around for motor to pop up on craigslist or some where else. ive read that these 2.5 are notorios for blowing head gaskets but also that subaru has come out with revised head gaskets that seal alot better.. if i was to do head gaskets i would have the heads resurfaced and preassure tested. wanted to know since i will be pulling the engine either way can you have the block resurfaced with out disassembling it (pistons,crank). Am I wasting my time doing head gaskets? i need to keep this as cheap as possible. if i was to do head gaskets with the revised gaskets how long do they tend to last? any help or opions on this situation would be very aprecciated. thanks.

yes, propably every subaru ea82 is cracked between the valves, but you have to take the intake valve out and see if th crack carrys down below the casting line. it is way worse with turbo heads, i wasnt able to find one that wasnt cracked. anyway i found the two bestheads that were cracked and took them to aluminum head rebuilders on like 27 and holgate or somewhere around there. 150 bucks to weld up the cracks grind the valves and seats preasure test and resurface for each head. good luck

what does swapping the 2.5 for the 2.2 entail? is it difficult and am i going to have alot of wiring problems with, and codes stored in the computer? if it is easy what cars can i take the enigine from?

ya if i get it i will just pull the motor get it apart and then decide. any hwlp with what motors from what cars would fit in here would be helpful. and if there is anything i should look for when(known problem areas) i get the motor out and apart, besides what has already been said. thanks

ya he said he drove it for a little while, but i really dont know, and i dont know if he remebers, it was like 8 months ago. do the blocks warp easily? are milling the heads gonna do it? it is a 2.5 so will any non turbo 2.5 work in this car or are there different versions of the 2.5. if any one knew what engines from what cars would fit in here that would be very helpful.thanks.

wanting to buy a 96 legacy outback for $2500 runs but the guy said it overheats in about ten minutes. he had it taken to a subaru shop and they said it would be best to replace the engine. but that they could do just head gaskets and see what happens. now i know that shops sugest the best possible way and the way that flags the most hours so what is my best route, is replacing the head gaskets and having the heads re-surfaced ok, or will they most likely blow again? the car has 170k on it. should i get a used junk yard or private party motor? i know the ea82 engines pretty well but not these ones, dont know what there prone to doing. please help casuse this deal is going to pass soon, and the car is in great shape. thank you.

i thought it sounded like it was flooding due to me havin to put it to the floor, i have another set of injectors from another turbo ill put in and see what it does. i made pretty sure to have all the vacum lines right cause the guy who had it before me had the waste gate vacum lines all bass ackwards so i went to the junk yard and made a diagram from a running turboso to get all the solonoids and lines in the right places, ill double check though. would try and unplugg the cts but i dont know what that is. can also through another crank angle sensor it and see if it changes. thanks for the help.

i have a 89 turbo gl wagon, i bought it with it supposedly having bad head gaskets. when i bought it to start it i had to put my foot to the floor and crank it for like 30sec+ to get it to start. i attributed that to the blown head gasket. now i have 2 different heads on it both resurfaced both with grinded valve seats and faces and new seals, new head gaskets and a differnt block out of another turbo subaru cause i pulled the threads out of my block while torqueing the heads down. when i start the car it idles pretty ruff, enough so when i put a timing light on it its jumping all over the place. and its a kinda high. when i shut down the engine and go start it again it doesnt want to start unless my foot is to the ground and and i crank if for almost ten seconds. any ideas to why my car is acting this way would be much appreciated. thanks.