NV Zeno
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Posts posted by NV Zeno
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Gonna have to dig out first...🤪
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It sounds like a micro switch that may have slipped ever so slightly out of position..just enough to intermittently operate. I've been chasing a similar problem on one of my cars for years. I like the idea of the micro switch on the brake pedal as described above.
Just my 2 bucks
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I have found that the brighter, or higher-performance bulbs have much shorter lifespans. The Long Life bulbs may be more robust, but aren't as bright as the high performance stuff.
To extend the lifespan of the main headlight bulbs (I've been using Sylvania Silverstar for decades) on my 2008 Forester, I disabled the DRL feature. My thinking is mostly along the lines of reducing the number of on/ off cycles, as described above.
Also. Avoid handling the bulbs with bare fingers..the minute amount of your body's oil and fluids in your fingerprints is not compatible with the super hot glass bulb. I prefer the 5 mil Harbor Freight Nitrile gloves for this job.
Just my 2 bucks
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A flashing TPS light indicates a SYSTEM problem, not necessarily tire pressure. How old is your car? It is possible the TPS sensors in one (and eventually all) of your wheels has croaked or is weak. The batteries that operate them have a finite lifespan.
Just my 2 bucks
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Yea, my sis's kid lives in Dago. It's always pretty nice weather there. A really good old time family Italian joint in Old Downtown. Highly recommended.
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It was a balmy 77 deg here in Tahoe yesterday..glad you're feeling better.
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3 hours ago, azdave said:
News stations act like it's the apocalypse or something because it was 110 yesterday here in Phoenix but that is quite typical for June. They issue special "HEAT ALERTS!" just in case you don't know it's another summer like the last one and the thousands before that. Quite comical really.
They make it sound like we should shut down the city and "shelter in place" or something until the heat passes after September ends. Monsoon season is next. That brings in a whole new round of media hype. Ultimately, anything that convinces people not to move here is okay with me, even if it is over-hyped drama about seasonal weather. I got off work at 3:30 PM yesterday, which is the hottest part of the day, and within 10 minutes of getting home I was out working on the DL. Wear sunscreen.
"Yeah, but's a DRY heat..."
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2008 forester X, 230,000: Aisin timing belt kit, alignment, rear drum brakes (they were original!).
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Please keep us posted on your progress and location. Who knows what folks may be along your way!
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On 4/14/2022 at 10:22 PM, moosens said:
Quick video but I would say you should be sure you have good oil pressure and even then don’t think that the oil always makes it to each and every lifter and fills it.
Even after a new oil pump and of course fresh seals you can still hear that last lifter in the oil trail making noise. Solution is to rev it up and don’t be fearful - go up towards the redline but of course don’t exceed it , just maybe hold it at 5k until you hear that lifter quiet down.
Best of luck. Enjoy!
If you're going to try that, please let the engine be warmed up before going to high RPM.
Just my 2 bucks
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That's a nice lookin 'Vair, is it as clean as the DL?
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I believe that's Vinyl. Most upholstery shops should have a wide choice of colors and thicknesses.
Just bring the old one with you to the upholsterer..there is associated hardware he needs to use.
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On 4/8/2022 at 5:33 AM, idosubaru said:
It's probably a front wheel flexible brake line. You could check it real quick by doing nothing but jacking the front wheels up.
Jack up the front and turn each wheel by hand - one will feel locked. Replace the flexible line to that wheel.
If you jack it up and neither is locked, press the pedal and check again. Press the pedal and check again until one wheel locks up and the other doesn't.
If one is locked you can go one step further and pry the caliper back with a screw driver between the pad and caliper - don't eve have to remove it just wedge it in there and give it a little back pressure. It doesn't take much. Then press brake pedal and feel it lock up again.
The brake hose collapses internally and acts like a valve. You press the brakes, the fluid pressed the pads tight. Let off the brakes and the fluid pressure should ease. But the collapsed hose doesn't allow the fluid pressure to "go backwards" up the line so to speak.
I've never heard of this happening to Subaru, just American cars, makes me wonder if yours were replaced before with aftermarket or maybe it can happen to Subaru.
Exactly what I was thinking. Happened to me on two separate, quite old Subarus.
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4 hours ago, MARKMAN99 said:
Thanks got it
Do you have any tips for finding a good Subaru specialist independent shop? I've tried just searching google for "subaru service" and found a few
It's been a lot of years since I lived in the SFO area, but I know there's a shop up in Santa Rosa that has done many car services and repairs for me, if you're in the North Bay. There is also a "Subaru Specialist" shop in South Lake Tahoe that's really good, and "Independent Auto" on Bergin Dr. in Reno (maybe its Sparks) are all really knowledgeable. My brain is kinda rusty about Bay area stuff, but I recall there was a shop in Sunnyvale with a good reputation, and another in Pleasanton. Can't remember the names, tho.
Just my 2 bucks
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Try replacing the fuel filter. Cheap and easy.
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That's a fairly recently issued license plate. Someone owns that car, and went through the effort and expense of registering a carbureted car in California. It may be broken down, stolen then dumped there, or parked long term at that train station (as at an airport). Call your Sheriff, have them check it out.
Just my 2 bucks.
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Yep, about the same for my Acura, about 5 years ago . (Northern Nevada)
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Please keep us up to date on this., thank you so far.
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Not sure about how yours is configured as I have a SG Forester, but you may want to look into K&N filters. They have a 1" "nut" welded to the top of the filter, making it super easy to loosen with a simple ratchet/ extension setup.
Just my 2 bucks
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Paul, I ran 10W40 in my '83 EA81 after it hit about 100K, still runs to this day with about 400K. Mostly Quaker State back then. On my '96 EJ22 I ran mostly 10W30, but I got it with over 200K well maintained miles on it already, and AFAIK, it still runs good. Mostly Castrol, sometimes NAPA brand oil. On my present 2008 EJ25 with ~225K, I (and the previous owner) have been running Castrol 5W30, as recommended in the manual. I switched to "High Mileage" Castrol at about 210K. No engine issues.
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Just my 2 bucks here. If you're feeling shake while on the gas and then shaking (mostly) stops when you let off, my experience has been the inner joint of one (or both in my case) of the CV axles is bad. Considering the low quality of aftermarket CV axles out there, this could be a high probability. Who knows how old and what "brand" your axles are?
Other than that (as stated in earlier posts), wheel balance leaps to mind.
NVZ
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On 6/2/2021 at 9:53 PM, moosens said:
Thanks everybody.
Wife likes it and the A/C works.
See you back when the questions arise.
Air conditioning makes all the difference...
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Shimmy under acceleration. I'm not sure what to do now...
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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I've had the same symptom on my wagon. Ended up being the inner CV joint on one of the front drive axles (I forget which side). Exactly as IdoSubaru described.
My 2 bucks