manxsta

Habib..how are you buddy....i installed a wolf yesterday and the coolant temp sensor spec,s are...temp 10c / 14f...7-11.5 k ohms 20c / 68f..2-3 k 50c / 102f..700-1000k and its a sensor not a sender..measure this with the plug off

you refit the hose as it was MORON..after fitting the bead...geez..how the hell is your car still on the road...

put a wooden beed in the tube from the manifold to the valve..and drill a hold in the bead around 2mm in diameter...this will solve your problems, habib.....are you lebanese?? i have 3 friends lebanese ..azmi... akmed..and habib too.. do you know habib means friend??cheers

forget screwing with the fuel system until you get spark..like everything else if its not getting spark..it does not matter what you do..it WONT run...spark is your first goal...chers

Hi yall...anybody out there know where i can find some mapping for ea82t wolf 3d v4 set-up...i have some already though it would be helpful,and save some time, if i had some good maps to use,any help would be appreciated..cheers

does this happen when the air is on??? or off if it is while the air is turned on, it could be your idle up solinoid at the rear of the throttle body,or the passenger side of the carb if it is carby...this is simply an adjustment of the screw below it ..(or the screw at the rear of the idle up vacuum diaprham if carbed) this screw detirmines what rpm to idle at when the solinoid is on.. when it is off..your idle returns to normal setting ... if not i would be looking for a loose vacuum line..check them all youll find it soon enough if there is one..cheers

Yeh its becoming common place for most low income earner,s..just leave it there til your next welfare check comes in..then pick it up with a gallon of fuel.....drive it till it runs out ..then go again next cheque( or 2 weeks down the track) its like warranty..whichever comes first... :grin:

run a thermostat 10 degrees cooler...standard is 180 you can run a 170..i run a 160 with my turbo and it always sit,s on 176 and may go to 180 if im into the turbo all the time.....the benifits of running your ea82t with a cooler thermostat are great....1/ big reduction of detonation(pinging) when you unknowingly fuel up with low grade fuel..(i hate that) 2/ you are now running you engine cooler so you get a more dense air fuel charge to your induction...more air means more go for your buck.. there are no wrisk,s in lowering your thermostat 10 degree,s..but i would recomend 20 lower than stock..as this will run at around 180 when into the turbo alot..instead of 190-195...cheers

if there are metal shavings anywhere..they are probably alloy first...i dont think you would have any in the turbo as the oil goes through the filter before the engine...i think,anyway false hope will make you feel a little better.. ide say your turbo would be fine...cheers

OOOHH!! I SEE, if the valve,s are not stuck as GD says,i think the springs may have lost there temper and copped a lot of heat..how hot did it get? Wow, you dont hold back when you cook a motor:grin: how are you with bacon and eggs? i hope you have a set of springs ,but do youself a favour and rebuild the heads..cheers

Dude, is this spring on each side you taking about the valve spring??? or is it maybe the lifter spring loaded tip you are haveing trouble with..anyways the valve spring should be 42mm high from the seat..or 40mm from the head casting..check the height to see if this is the case..it should be the same height as all the rest of the valve springs.... if it is compressed eather the valve is sticking on both sides..which is strange....as you say it is on both sides...or there is something holding it open(the valve that is) check the height as i said and if this is ok..then maybe it is a colappsed lifter and not a spring....was the engine running correctly before all this..and did you see it running right? if not maybe someone else has bent the valves..or dunked it in the river and the front pots have copped some water...if this is not the case..you should look closely and see if you can spot the problem..... put some nylon rope down the plug hole of the offending cylinder and see if you can close the valve using the piston to push against the rope and thus close the valve..youll have to feed 1-2 foot of 5mm nylon rope in or so..cheers

to answer your question..thats them,,you can use almost any o-ring that is with in 1 mm to the original....so dont be to fussy about paying $4.16 or there abouts...you can buy them for around 1 cent each.....go to a plumbing shop or simular/hardware store etc..you,ll come across some place that has a whole stack,your size...and are just itching to sell some.. ..cheers

Yep..it has been moved..i dont get the error..but it does tell me it has been moved...the lifters are simple and you dont really need the tear down guide...but i know it gives added moral support should you lose track of which bit goes where...really though,... pull one apart and after the first one you will be a master lifter reassembler:grin: ...serious..the only bit you must be gently with is the retainer,on top..dont damage it up to bad so you cant use it again...polish all the bits with thinners and a rag..or simular and reassemble and your done....cheers....if you find any that you can push down more the .5mm with you thumb..change it for another lifter... when you clean them..it does not matter that they push right in as they will pump up....happy servicing..

This may not count...but i never get challanged in my 12psi ea82t MANX BUGGY...its 598kgs in total and pulls hard in all gears.... .runs 3.9 diff and spin,s the motor clear through 6800rpm.. 27 inch rear tyres....its sorta like the dream launch mobile..i never shock-load it..and dont spin the wheel,s on the bitumen....but i have no doubt it would be fun though....

this is normal....worry when the rpm wont change....my 2$ worth