manxsta
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Posts posted by manxsta
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I wouldn't do that drill mod suggested above, your going to be pulling in UNFILTERED air and get lots of dirt and grime into the engine which is a bad thing.
Goto the local junk yard and grab another AUX Valve, takes 5 min to change and usually runs $5-10
you refit the hose as it was MORON..after fitting the bead...geez..how the hell is your car still on the road...
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put a wooden beed in the tube from the manifold to the valve..and drill a hold in the bead around 2mm in diameter...this will solve your problems,
habib.....are you lebanese?? i have 3 friends lebanese ..azmi... akmed..and habib too.. do you know habib means friend??cheers
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forget screwing with the fuel system until you get spark..like everything else if its not getting spark..it does not matter what you do..it WONT run...spark is your first goal...chers
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Hi yall...anybody out there know where i can find some mapping for ea82t wolf 3d v4 set-up...i have some already though it would be helpful,and save some time, if i had some good maps to use,any help would be appreciated..cheers
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does this happen when the air is on??? or off
if it is while the air is turned on, it could be your idle up solinoid at the rear of the throttle body,or the passenger side of the carb if it is carby...this is simply an adjustment of the screw below it ..(or the screw at the rear of the idle up vacuum diaprham if carbed)
this screw detirmines what rpm to idle at when the solinoid is on..
when it is off..your idle returns to normal setting ...
if not i would be looking for a loose vacuum line..check them all youll find it soon enough if there is one..cheers
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Yeh its becoming common place for most low income earner,s..just leave it there til your next welfare check comes in..then pick it up with a gallon of fuel.....drive it till it runs out ..then go again next cheque( or 2 weeks down the track) its like warranty..whichever comes first...
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OK so after a bit of messing about I've got the engine to run a bit better, gets better once it is warmed up.
What I need to know is -What is a healthy temperature for the engine to run at?
I have a thermometer in the pipe between the thermo and rad.
Thanks
Habib
run a thermostat 10 degrees cooler...standard is 180 you can run a 170..i run a 160 with my turbo and it always sit,s on 176 and may go to 180 if im into the turbo all the time.....the benifits of running your ea82t with a cooler thermostat are great....1/ big reduction of detonation(pinging) when you unknowingly fuel up with low grade fuel..(i hate that)
2/ you are now running you engine cooler so you get a more dense air fuel charge to your induction...more air means more go for your buck..
there are no wrisk,s in lowering your thermostat 10 degree,s..but i would recomend 20 lower than stock..as this will run at around 180 when into the turbo alot..instead of 190-195...cheers
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if there are metal shavings anywhere..they are probably alloy first...i dont think you would have any in the turbo as the oil goes through the filter before the engine...i think,anyway false hope will make you feel a little better..
ide say your turbo would be fine...cheers -
By lifters you mean.. the thingies that the top part of the rocker set on? They are all sticking out the same.. it is definately the springs that is the problem. I think I'm just going to have to wait until I can afford to tear it down and rebuild it good. It is still rebuildable, right?
OOOHH!! I SEE, if the valve,s are not stuck as GD says,i think the springs may have lost there temper and copped a lot of heat..how hot did it get?
Wow, you dont hold back when you cook a motor:grin:
how are you with bacon and eggs?
i hope you have a set of springs ,but do youself a favour and rebuild the heads..cheers
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Sorry to start a new thread about this.. but I need help, like now, before I set the RX on fire...
ea82 Turbo MPFI 5spd etc etc
So I managed to get my cam towers back on and stuff.. well the spring (on both sides) CLOSEST to the FRONT of the car are staying compressed and allowing the rockers to just fall out.. Why would it do this? How do I fix it? I had the motor running for about 3 seconds (mmm oil sprays EVERYWHERE when you start it with the cam cover removed.) Anyway.. not even having it running uncompressed those two springs.. I'm getting to the point where I'm just going to leave those two rockers out and drive it til blows up. a big WTF? on this one.
Dude, is this spring on each side you taking about the valve spring???
or is it maybe the lifter spring loaded tip you are haveing trouble with..anyways the valve spring should be 42mm high from the seat..or 40mm from the head casting..check the height to see if this is the case..it should be the same height as all the rest of the valve springs....
if it is compressed eather the valve is sticking on both sides..which is strange....as you say it is on both sides...or there is something holding it open(the valve that is)
check the height as i said and if this is ok..then maybe it is a colappsed lifter and not a spring....was the engine running correctly before all this..and did you see it running right?
if not maybe someone else has bent the valves..or dunked it in the river and the front pots have copped some water...if this is not the case..you should look closely and see if you can spot the problem.....
put some nylon rope down the plug hole of the offending cylinder and see if you can close the valve using the piston to push against the rope and thus close the valve..youll have to feed 1-2 foot of 5mm nylon rope in or so..cheers
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Well for those of you who have torn into an EA82, you know those o-rings that go in between the cam case and and heads? One per side, located toward the top IIRC. I'm looking at replacing those while the engine is apart and was wondering if these are them?
Thanks!
to answer your question..thats them,,you can use almost any o-ring that is with in 1 mm to the original....so dont be to fussy about paying $4.16 or there abouts...you can buy them for around 1 cent each.....go to a plumbing shop or simular/hardware store etc..you,ll come across some place that has a whole stack,your size...and are just itching to sell some..
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Yep..it has been moved..i dont get the error..but it does tell me it has been moved...the lifters are simple and you dont really need the tear down guide...but i know it gives added moral support should you lose track of which bit goes where...really though,... pull one apart and after the first one you will be a master lifter reassembler:grin: ...serious..the only bit you must be gently with is the retainer,on top..dont damage it up to bad so you cant use it again...polish all the bits with thinners and a rag..or simular and reassemble and your done....cheers....if you find any that you can push down more the .5mm with you thumb..change it for another lifter...
when you clean them..it does not matter that they push right in as they will pump up....happy servicing..
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This may not count...but i never get challanged in my 12psi ea82t MANX BUGGY...its 598kgs in total and pulls hard in all gears....
.runs 3.9 diffand spin,s the motor clear through 6800rpm.. 27 inch rear tyres....its sorta like the dream launch mobile..i never shock-load it..and dont spin the wheel,s on the bitumen....but i have no doubt it would be fun though....
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this is normal....worry when the rpm wont change....my 2$
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what kw/hp do you estimate at this boost,with your set up...??I take mine up to 12 psi WOT sometimes more.
also i keep my rpm under 6800,would this be the limit with your set up too??cheers
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That intermitant problem i had ,well i have solved it....
i had a weak spring on n#3 cylinder,exhaust valve..which caused the lifter to pump up more than it should,and hold the valve open enough to cause a miss in the cylinder..intermitantly.....spring tension was 38 pounds. and should have been a lot higher..almost double..i changed out the weak spring and replaced it..the problem is gone.....i wonder if this has anything to do with it being the closet spring to the turbo...anyone have a simular problem?????..cheers
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yes increased oxygen is called..chemical supercharging..like NOS...or methanol..3x the oxygen particals,per.....its old news...more importantly..and much cheap and life giving to your driveline is weight reduction programs...this is where the eyelids open up...
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I have an 87 RX. I'm having problems with it heating up to about 75% on the temp gauge. So far I've replaced a faulty radiator cap' date=' and tightened the drain plug as much as I can, changed my waterpump belts and replaced my radiator hoses. The radiator at all times is cool to the touch over the entire thing even when the car is getting too warm/hot. The drainplug housing drips. The accessory fan does kick on to cool the motor. I can feel the water boiling on the turbo feed line. And feel the water boiling in the waterhousing to radiator hose. The coolant is bubbling into the overflow bottle and overflowing. The waterpump is definitely not leaking. The only 2 places the car is leaking noticeable coolant is at the radiator drain plug, only in drips, and the overflow bottle. Any suggestions? Thank you in advance.[/quote']
if you find the radiater does not fix the problem..this is early stages of head gasket failure..the bubbling is a sign..see if you get any preasure in the rad before it heats up..if so..headgaskets..if not fix the flow problems before you disturb the headgaskets to much from the heat...goodluck..
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Anyone have any idea of thew hp or kw output for a stock ea82t with a pod ..at 12psi???
its in my 596kg manx buggy it just that ive been leaving stock wrx,s in the mirror..
and am curious to the output...approx??? -
check for a body in the trunk..that will do it....
does it bog down in 2nd and third etc...is is consistant with road speeds or engine speeds...hold on thats a bit too technical i think...
the oxygen sensor wont be the problem...i agree with above..check the codes under the steering column..look for a black box..it will have a flashing light..go there...
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i run a chevy pickup too!..and its damn reliable..lpg real economical..and dont have to rev the crap out of it to get up to 80mph...
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OMFG!!! i just noticed the date..youll probly have to mow the grass around the car first..
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Hi there..i see you are having some problems..here.
I think i know what is going on...your lifters are not pumping down..when you had it apart..you should check all the lifter,by putting thm in a vice with soft jaws and make sure the all compress..dont over doing but..the will go down a little..thats all around 4mm..so i think the lifters on n#2 are not releasing and hence holding your valves open..just to save you some trouble..dont pull the head...as this would be happening to all cylinders on this head if they botched up the head..so check the lifters and let us know how you go..good luck..i hope this helps you..cheers:)
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Your the PIMP DUDE..sounds like thats the plan to go with..after all its what you like...sounds good to me to...:cool: mafia staff car style:lol:
Testing a coolant temp sender?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Habib..how are you buddy....i installed a wolf yesterday and the coolant temp sensor spec,s are...temp 10c / 14f...7-11.5 k ohms
20c / 68f..2-3 k
50c / 102f..700-1000k
and its a sensor not a sender..measure this with the plug off