NorseKode

Disty is bolted down tight. So, no easy outs there.

1991 ea82 loyale 4wd 5spd. Its been running at or above 1500 at idle since I have owned it (3 weeks) but I figured the IAC was bad. It isn't. Pulled IAC connector at idle and lost 500 rpm. So much for that. Put the green connectors together, pulled the stopper from the bell, hooked up a timing light and let her rip. At the end of its' adjustment (clockwise) the IAC screw gives me about 1200 rpm with green continuity and 1300 without. And the timing marks walk, jump and skip all over the place, more or less at random, to the tune of about 10 degrees. Or more. Hard to be sure when they won't stop moving. So.... timing belts? ideas? Kalo

Yeah, the alternator situation (stock) sucks. Especially the replacement price. The GM replacement mod is one of the best ideas I've run across yet. If, by "...easy to service..." you mean "easy to replace" I'd have to agree. It's also quite a bit cheaper. But this thing is added in line with the lower rad hose, which makes it even easier to replace, I would bet. But I think I'd stand an even chance of machining replacement parts for a magnetic impeller than machining a pump shaft and bearing sleeves. As for the ridiculous price, welll. . . . give it a few years. It'll drop. The only real monkeywrench I can see is power usage claims. How the heck can a .072 KWHour device push 1260 gal/hr through a 1"- 2" hose? Kalo

http://www.daviescraig.com.au/release.html Aside from the extreme price tag, it seems like a brilliant mod. Kalo :wave:

Try pulling the thermo before getting crazy with the rad. Also, running straight water will corrode your head, block, and water pump. Well, actually, it'll corrode the softest parts (Al) first. You really need an electrolytic substance in your coolant. In the absence of such, physics will dictate the corrosion of an anode. Kalo

1991 Loyale 5spd 4WD wagon. When I am listening to the fm tuner and switch on my rear defogger, static obscures the radio signal. Isn't that thing just a nichrome type heating element? What would cause the radio to gain noise like this? Kalo:confused:

On a side note, there is a sacrificial zinc anode in water heaters and outboard engine boats for just this reason. The same people tend not to know this. Number one cause of death for hot water heaters. $0.02 Kalo;)

Thanks. I originally got the idea from their site, but it's a little ambiguous about their current ability to supply same. I'll just give them a ring, eh? Kalo

It sounds as if I'll need to replace a half-shaft in the near future. I would like to use silicone boots for maximum durability. Anyone know of a dealer? Kalo

Actually, it looks as if it may cost quite a lot to fix the California thing. Thanks for the lookup. Kalo

I'm new here. Kalo

If I'm reading the USRM correctly, I should be seeing (if anything) a number of long pulses followed by a number of short pulses. This is a key-on, no connectors test. 6 short pulses, pause, 6 short pulses, ad infinitum. No timing changes, no pause changes. Just 6 short. Any insights? Kalo:confused:

I bought a Loyale yesterday. It is my first Subaru. Neat little thing. Compartments all over the place. Still finding little features I hadn't noticed at first blush. Idles a few hundred high, but that is not the reason for this post. There is a little sensor mounted to the top of my AC compressor. As the blades on the clutch face spin, this little sensor counts the revolutions of the compressor shaft. AllData names it the Compressor Speed Sensor. The question is: just why the heck is it there? This is the first time I have seen this anywhere. It has also stumped a couple of lod time college shop teachers. Can anyone tell me why Subaru put this thing on here?