Soup

Sounds like both seats are broken. They are on the same circuit, so it wouldn't be a fuse blown. The best way to find out is to unplug, and meter the connections.

There is heat in the butt, and the back

There should be 4 wires to your seat heater, unplug at the seat, look at the plug that is attached to the seat, hold the lock tab up, there should be 4 pins, the top row is numbered from right to left, 1, 2. Bottom row is numbered right to left, 3, 4. Check for continuity between 1 & 3, 1 & 4, and 3 & 4. if one of those has no continuity, you have a open heater loop. You can replace the loops, somewhat difficult though.

I wouldn't mess with the pedal adjustment, either there's a problem with your new clutch, or the master, or slave cylinder is screwed up.

One thing to note, the noise from the timing belt tensioner should be mostly apparent at idle, it's a intermittent knocking sound. Piston slap should be a consistent knocking sound, which increases in proportion to throttle increases. My 2000 outback has no piston slap, however it did have a leaking tensioner, which the dealer replaced under warranty. The car has 90,000 km.

If it was my car, I wouldn't push it much farther than 60k miles/100k Km. It sucks to be stuck on the side of the road, and a victim of a towtruck driver, & a strange garage... Just my two cents (cdn).

The Service Manual calls for 75w-90, or 80w-90, If you don't operate your car in low temps, I would use 80w-90, as the 75 is more expensive, and part synthetic. The trans capacity is 3.5 L, or 3.7 us qts. Dan

you adjust the headlight as follows: for the vertical, adjust the inbd screw (found on the back of the assy, you can see the two adjustment screws on the picture in your manual). adjust the vertical until the bubble is centered in the indicator. the horizontal screw is the outbd one, there is an indicator on the screw, the manual says don't adjust it more than 2 segments either way from the center of the guage. Dan

What kind of trim is on your windsield? I isolated mine by putting some tape over the trim. The trim on my 2000 is a flexible rubber, all around the outside edje.

I do have the 1997 legacy manuals. All of mine were re-named with the appropriate title, when downloaded. If you want to try e-mailing them, send me the names of the ones you want. My e-mail is dk.w@sympatico.ca Dan

My 2000 legacy had a very loud squeal at high speeds (around 120 kph) It sounded like a warning horn. It was the rubber windshield trim on the r/h side vibrating. It drove me crazy til I located it. It sounded like it was coming from under the dash.

What Speed, and from where is the sound coming from

Yohy, I don't know of any way to recover them, other than downloading them again. What model year did you download, If I have those file's I could e-mail them to you. Dan

I had the same problem with the txt file extension, took me a while to realize it though. I e-mailed them about the problem, but they couldn't duplicate it. Glad to know It wasn't just me screwing up!

Go to the Subaru End Wrench Tech info Site, You can download the authentic subaru manuals, all you can download over a 72 hr period, for $20. Hard to beat this deal! http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/index.jsp

Have you checked to see if the fuel pump is operational?

I had the exact same problem on my Celica, I found the Ground wire from the Chaisis To the Battery Bad. I replaced the lead, and all better!

As I just posted in Another thread, My water pump is leaking, the car has 78,000km. I was going thru the manual, It doesn't look like a fun job, you have to remove the timing belt and the left cam pulley. My Timing belt Tensioner was leaking @ 72,000km, The result was a intermittent knock at idle. The dealer replaced both the tensioner & belt under warranty. Hope this info helps.

My head gasket story just keeps getting better! I took my 2000 outback 78,000k to the dealer due to a leaky rad, and brown goo in the rad overflow tank. Their response... New Rad $322.40 plus 1.5 hr labour, The oil in the overflow tank is and I quote "Tech reports that at every 48000 km rad reservior should be removed form vehicle and cleaned- otherwise it developes a "cloudy - oil goo" appearance, as reported by customer." At this point I informed them that the rad fluid was new, and the bottle had been cleaned out a month earlier. Today I fixed the rad, then during the pressure test (@23psi per the subaru manual) I found a leak from the thermostat housing, The water pump dripping away, and an external head gasket leak on the aft left bottom side of the engine, with the fluid running down the crossmember. The subaru dealer should have picked up the leak at the head gasket, There's green stains & deposits indicating a leak, I don't think he even looked, It was obvious! I have an appointment on Monday at another Sub dealer, Maybe this one will get it right!

Does your legacy have manual window cranks? sounds like the retaining ring of a window crank arm

Evanism, how much did it cost?

Commuter, 'Yes I installed the Block heater myself, The coolant I used was the Plain Jane Prestone in the Yellow Jug, & no I did not flush the system. I've never heard of getting a sludge from mixing coolants. I'll get the rad fixed, then I'll flush the system & put in new fluid. Any type of fluid which is your prefered?? Dan

I've got a 2000 OBW with some light brown deposits (goo) in the rad overflow bottle. My subaru dealer claims it is dirty coolant, not a blown head gasket. Has anyone heard of this explanation? The coolant is new, as I installed a block heater this fall. The coolant brand is Prestone 70/30 mix with demineralized water. The dealer claims when a head gasket goes on the phase 2 engines they leak externally. One other thing, Has anyone had trouble with their rad leaking at the lower tank to core connection, in two spots where the crimps don't bend over, and if so is it repairable. Dan

This is the SOHC 2.5 Phase 2 engine. I think they don't like the extreme cold (-25 to -40c) The dealer said they already had 4 head gasket replacements in this week!

No Overheating as yet.... My Dealer seems to think that the left head gasket is blown (apparently it's always the left). I have a appointment for next tues at the dealer. It's under warranty, which is the good news. If it is a head gasket, should I hang on to the car?? Is it likely to re-offend? My Dealer says it will probably go again in 60k???