delli50

it usually takes a week to 10 days. i usually look online and then call to order telling them that i looked on-line. better prices for online shopping i think and i don't like to use my mastercard online, so that why i phone. also, it's very important that you insist on u.s. post office for shipping. they don't like to do that because they say there is no tracking number. i don't find this a problem. the problem is with courriers and their exorbitant fees and slow delivery. good luck mark

that was probably me! bought both crank and cam ange sensors as a package for about $50 u.s. got them from liberty subaru in new jersey parts@libertysubaru.com i think that they even paid for the shipping. make sure that you ask that they ship via the u.s. post office. if they ship via a courrier, double the cost (taxes/duty/brokerage fees/etc) and you won't get the parts any faster. i also bought a knock sensor and some other sensors from them. i have been very satisfied. i am about to contact them again as i need a fuel tank filler tube. regards, mark

i have the same car and had the same problem. not to rain on your parade, but i had to take the lower control arm off with whatever attached that i could not get off and bring it all to the local garage. they used mega heat and in the end, ended up drilling the boly out. and you guessed it the ball joint was destroyed. after 10 years, with all the salt and slush, it just becomes welded in there. btw, that was the case for both sides. do yourself a favour, take the parts off the car and take them to a shop that can handle the job. i do almost all of my car repairs myself, but this one was beyond me. i don't have oxyacetelyne. good luck and regards, mark

i just got one from liberty subaru in new jersey $49.00 U.S. i'm in canada too. had them shipo via u.s post office but still got dinged for another $20.00 here for taxes, duty and handling. that doesn't usually happen when i use the post office for parts from the states but i got hit this time. you can find them at http://www.newsubaru.com tele. (201) 261-7495 there ore other suppliers but most of them won't ship via post office. if you've ever had anything come to you from the states via courrier, you won't do it again! give these guys a try. i am very satisfied, but it will probably take about 2 weeks to get your sensor. better than the $180.00 or so that they want in canada for the same part. regards, mark

when i had this problem, and my 17 year old daughter had the car. i gave her a bottle of water and told her that if it wouldn't start to douse the cam and crank ange sensors with water to cool them off and try again. always worked for her and she got to know the location of these 2 sensors. might be worth a try for you. you might be able to isolate your problem....but i would replace both sensors anyway. regards, mark

i have he exact same car and solved the exact same problem. while my problem could have been the crank position sensor, mine was the cam position sensor. change both and solve your problem and enjoy your car. i got both oem from a dealer online for under $50.00. regards, mark

be thankfull that you don't have a a4 (forth generation) vw golf. i have an 01 2.0 litre golf with 100,000 kms. on it that consumes a litre in 1000 kilometres (that's 600 miles in u.s. terms). my 96 legacy, with 270,000 kms doesn't burn any oil that i can notice. apparently the golfs of that vintage are known to do this. something about some compression rings being installed upside down at the factory. vw hasn't made a good vehicle since 1992. the new ones are not owner friendly.....but that's another story. i'm glad that i have discovered subaru. regards, mark 96 subaru legacy wagon 01 vw golf 93 lincoln continental 82 vw scirocco

replacing the cam and crank sensors is one of the easiest things to do on your car. i'm going by memory, but the cam angle sensor is located on the driver's side of the engine at the fron behind the bottom outside edge of the cam cover. there is a plastic connection to undo and a small 10 mm bolt that holds it in. locate the sensor, undo the connection, remove the bolt, pull the sensor out and install the replacement. the crank angle sensor is smack dab in the middle of the top of the engine at the front, generally behind the alternator. changes out the same as the cam angle sensor. do a search for pictures of location in the archieves of this board and good luck. mark 96 legacy brighton 82 vw scirocco 93 lincoln continental 01 vw golf and i love my subaru and my scirocco....the rest you can have!

i can almost guarantee that your problem is the cam position or crank angle sensor. my money's on the cam position sensor. this is the exact same issue that i had. ....a cheap and easy fix!

i have the same car and had the same problem. i did replace the temp sensors, as a preventative maintenance item. the problem though was the cam position sensor. i'm in canada and ordered the cam position sensor and the crank position sensor as a kit from liberty subaru in new jersey (201) 261-7495. the price was under $50.00 for both and the paid for the mailing. one of those sensors here was > $150 canadian. i just ordered a knock sensor this week from this dealer. i found them great to deal with. you can change the cam and crank sensors yourself with just a 10 mm wrench. takes a minute for each and your hot start problem should go away. you should find pictures of locations by doing a search. depending on the age of your subaru, you might consider changing the other sensors mentioned above and cleaning any ground wire connections you can find. good luck, mark '96 brighton wagon

i used the code reader on my 01 golf last night that has a check engine light showing. the codes said misfire cyl 2 and knock sensor. the cel went on during a wet day when the engine started missing. the reader read it correctly and i was also able to clear the codes. i tend to believe the codes it pulled on my subaru and will start to tackle the fix. i'll keep you posted. regards, mark

the code reader works great and was very affordabe. there is no auto zone here in canada that i'm aware of that reads codes for free. i have no reason to doubt the readings. will be trying it on my vw tonight.

thanks for your replys. the car has about 270,000 kilometres on it. that's about 162,000 miles. i've been straightening it out and have cleaned up a number of the electrical contacts. i also did clean and tighten up the battery posts and this did solve some runability/starting issues. got a new battery yesterday and will be installing that. the code reader i got was off ebay. you can find a description of it here..... http://cgi.ebay.ca/Universal-OBD2-OBD-II-Code-Scanner-Code-Reader-NEW_W0QQitemZ4652385009QQcategoryZ43989QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem i am pleased with it. it seems to work well and is easy to use. i think that it will also work on my vw. i may try the oxygen sensor route to try and get rid of the codes. my gas mileage doesn't seem to be all that great so this might be a good bet. anyone know how many wires there are to the sensors on these cars. i've always had luck with generic sensors and have one sitting on a shelf in my garage. i'll keep you posted but might not get to this till next week. regards, mark

done! i did clean up a lot of connectors. this did cure some runability issues that i had. i cleared the codes and they all came back. i'm looking at my hanes manual to see about some tests. still interested in the experiences and opinions of others. regards, mark

just got a code reader. very easy to use and now i want to get rid of the check engine light. the car is a 96 legacy brighton wagon 2.2 litre with an auto tranny. i'm looking for some help interpreting what the codes mean and how to effect a fix to get rid of them. the codes generic codes were: P0111- intake air temperature circuit range/performance problem P0122- throttle/pedal position sensor/switch A circuit low input P0133- O2 sensor circuit slow response(bank 1 sensor 1) P0511- nothing in my code book for this one! P0522- engine oil pressure sensor/switch circuit low voltage P0533- a/c refrigerent pressure sensor circuit high input so, the only thing that i am thinking is that an o2 sensor may be faulty, the oil pressure sensor may need replacement and i know the a/c needs to be charged. i don't know anything about a throttle/ppedal position sensor is. any help will be appreciated as i'm tired of looking at the check engine light. regards, mark

had another look at the car. as i said on friday, i was noticing some weird electrical problems. tried to start the car and found that the battery was low, so i hooked up the charger. it didn't eem to be charging. had a closer look and the positive battery cable wasn't all that tight. spent some time cleaning that up and got it back on and tight. hooked up the battery charger and now it is taking a charge. i think that this was my problem. i always look for the hardest thing first usually. got lucky this time. i do make work for myself though. i thought that i would shampoo the engine so that it would be easier to work on. it came out beautifully, but ran like crap afterward. i blew the engine off with compressed air but it still ran poorly. pulled the plug wire and found that the metal connector was left on the plug to #1 cylinder....so that's my next job.....to straighten that out. i think though that i may be able to solve my problem. regards, mark

thanks for the tips on purchasing a code reader. as an update, the cel is now out on my legacy. started it up yesterday and was surprised to see that it is now out. the car still accellerates poorly though. i'll have to check to see if there is a stored code. funny thing too... the power to the radio is intermittant and the speedo does not seem to be working now. it must be an electrical speedo. so it seems that i may have some electrical problems. i hate when that happens. i'd much rather do "bull" work on my cars than chase down electrical problems. regards, mark

no autozone or the like here in canada. i've never heard of any business scanning for free or renting a scanner.

thanks for everyone's suggestions. i put a new engine temp sensor into the car a couple of nights ago. i also disconnected the battery's negative cable for about 1 hour. the cel is still on. i haven't had a chance to look deeper into the repair manual or the car. i hope to do that on the weekend. i'll disconnect the battery overnight to see if i can reset the cel. i guess that i need to buy a code scanner. i have read that most scanners for obd 2 will read the code on all cars except bmw, mercedes, vw/audi and subaru. guess what? i drive subaru and vw products. i'm hoping that it's only the newer subarus that they can't read and i will be able to pull the codes on my "96. mark

[the cel is still on from an earlier problem that was resolved. there was a miss in cyl #2 that i resolved with new wires. the cel is still on because i don't have a code scanner to remove it and the auto parts stores here in canada don't do it for you for free. i'll look at the car tomorrow and report on any findings. regards, mark

anyone else with any ideas before i start tearing into this car. where isa the ecu located? are there any tests that i can conduct? regards, mark

the perpetrator is a "96 legacy brighton automatic with a 2.2 litre engine. it has 270,000 kilometres on it. that's about 162,000 miles. earlier i had a starting problem when the car was warm but cured it by replacing the cam angle and crank angle sensors. it ran well for about a month. i just got the car about 2 months ago. i do most of my own work, but my experience is with vw/audi. the check engine light is on, but this is from an earlier problem with an engine miss that i solved with new wires. so, to the problem.... the car stranded my daughter on friday night. it started to run poorly and stalled. she was able to coast into a parking lot. it briefly started and she was able to park it in the lot. i went to get her and it would not start, but turned over freely. the next morning, it still would not start, so i left it. vcam back at night and it stated right up but only rann for about 20 seconds. even after the engine was shut off and the key removed from the ignition, there was a buzzing coming from under the dash, but this too only lasted about 20 seconds. it reoccurred after trying to start the car again. i also put in a new temp sensor and semp guage sending unit when i got the car home. originally it still would not start, but after a few trys it started and seems to run fine at idle. i took it for a run and it stalled shortly after leaving the house but started right up. it had no power on a slight hill on my drive, but i got it back home. in the reiveway it was buzzing again and i noticed that the radio is not working. i did see the radio flash on for an instant and then go dead. this all has me puzzled. if it were a vw, i would suspect a fuel pump, but the buzzing and electrical problems have me puzzled. any and all thoughts are appreciated. regards, mark got it home and checked the cam and crank angle sensors

i had a hot start problem on my newly aquired 96 legacy. my car experience is with vw's so i utilized the knowledge on this board and the search function to solve it. subaru engines and their management systems are relatively simple. i got lots of advice that a no start condition could be related to the cam and crank angle position sensors. i ordered these as well as a temperature sensor online from liberty subaru in new jersey. prices were awsome (around $50.00). these solved my starting problems. this a good, cheap thing to try on your problem. even if this doesn't fix it.....chances are you will need to replace these sensors soon. if you give it a try, let us know how it works out. one other thought from my vw audi experience. try cleaning the ground wires to the engine, particularly the one that grounds the ecu. regards, mark

ordered the 3 engine sensors - cam position, crank position and engine temp - online from liberty subaru in new jersey. great service, great price and very accomodating people. i would highly recommend them. changed out the parts last night and warm engine starting problems appear to be gone. thanks for everyone's help. till next time that i have a question or advice to offer...... mark