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montana105

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Posts posted by montana105

  1. 3 eyed: you are exactly right. The Montana HP trialed a couple of HO Mustangs,very effective chasing people down,but really sucked if one had to transport a criminal,in Montana you often can't wait for a paddy wagon to show up.In the larger towns of Montana a fast car doesn't mean better results,you don't need a car with turbo,I have yet to see a turbo based car that could outrun a police radio....

  2. Walter: don't create anxiety over working on your own car. Assess what you have for tools,basic wrenches and ratches will get the job done.A floor jack and jack stands would be really nice to prop the front of the car up and allow extra space for sliding under at least for your first time.At some point you're gonna have to go under,differentiate between the engine and tranny and loosen the tranny pan drain bolt.If you happen to loosen the wrong one it's not the end of the world,you can replace whatever fluid you happen to drain.

    My biggest suggeston at this time would be to get yourself a Haynes or Chiltons :eek: repair manual and identify what's where.

  3. When i bought the car it had some goodyear somethings on it,very noisy but aggressive.We now have BF goodrich insignias that are wore down to the stops(60K) and this car is reacting to them in a bad way. I do need something that will grip but not be noisey.we make frequent trips to Arizona in the Jeep and the Toyos seem to perform.wondering if anybody has any experience with Toyos on their Subarus? Would be nice to take the Subaru once in awhile for the MPG

  4. Hey all,been awhile- its time to retread the Legacy wagon and am wanting some opinions on whats best.Cost is not so much the factor compared to having a good set of all weather tires,but as the Leg has become our second vehicle don't want to spend so much. Have been looking at Toyo and Goodyear and snuck into WalMart to see what they have to offer,not to good of a selection compared to locals and TireRack.Don't need anything to agressive and enjoy a quiet ride. What's your thoughts and experiences?

  5. I'll add a different perspective here.I sold air tools and compressors for years at Sears?Craftsman.For the average home owner doing DIY repairs and mechanics there is nothing wrong with the Sears/ Craftsman stuff.The new stuff offered though is a different story.Heat is the enemy,and Sears as many of the home improvement box stores has gone to the no oil lube system and I've found that these systems produce more heat which produces more moisture through the line to your tools,without adequate separation systems this will ruin not only your air tools but will ruin any attempt at a quality paint job.This is okay for the casual user who maintains their air tools,but be diligent with your sprayers.The main thing I've found with using Sears compressors to do any spraying is to not use just an air hose,design a system that runs through piping with oil and water separators/filters.Air tools can handle some moisture but be diligent with your oiling of your equipment.All air compressors produce moisture just from the simple fact they are compacting air,without the right equipment you'll never get results and if you don't bleed your compressor daily you are screwed.

  6. How about more specifics-mileage for sure.My Jeep at 181000 miles does this

    and it's a combo of slack in the drivetrain and where the tranny has to line up with the parking awl.Just the fact that your car is a 91 leads me to say that you've got to expect little things and have lots of pennies to keep up with it like your other post regarding your A/C noise.i would advise that you do a thorough inspection just to see if anything looks out of whack,if you don't have the knowledge or skills ask someone that does to take a look then go from there.It is very hard to diagnose problems/symptoms over the computer without sound or hands on.I'm not putting you down but as you'll learn description is everything and without specifics don't expect much.

  7. The system we used to use at the dealership when I worked there was the Wynns system.This particular system involved disconnecting the fuel supply and hooking a can of cleaner to the schrader valve,unplug the fuel pump fuse

    and start the car.It would run for about 15 mins then die.the results were incredible and cured most customer complaints of sluggishness,poor idle and poor accelaration.I have run the Techron in my Jeep and was amazed at the performance diff,especially since we used to charge 89.99 for the fuel system cleaning at Chrysler.Whether or not this system will perform the same on Subies I can't tell you,to be honest of all the cars that came through that shop I never saw a Subie in for fuel problems.

  8. Cause and effect-you're right there. Guess we need to hear whether they see any signs of coolant leaking on the ground or in the engine bay or whether the fans are working. I once had a 66 Stang that ran much better if the radiator was only 3/4 full,it would just spit the rest out as soon as it wanted,made me mad because the fan picked up all that fluid and flung it all over.

  9. This is kind of confusing and I've noticed you all have stopped talking air in the system,but in my experiences if you have air in the system you don't get

    hot heat.By this I mean if they are able to turn on the heater and cool the engine down then fluid is flowing thru the heater core and thru the rest of the system, I garner this experience from older vehicles before electric fans,if the system was low on fluid or your core was plugged you didn't get heat or if you did it was only enough to defrost the front windshield.Of course if the core was plugged it wouldn't cause an overheat. please explain any work done to the cooling system where air might've got into the system.

    Excuse me for not remembering but after you filled the reservoir to 1/2 did it drop again and how much?

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