montana105

By fixing it you mean having a Subie shop do the work? Why waste a good car ?

3 eyed: you are exactly right. The Montana HP trialed a couple of HO Mustangs,very effective chasing people down,but really sucked if one had to transport a criminal,in Montana you often can't wait for a paddy wagon to show up.In the larger towns of Montana a fast car doesn't mean better results,you don't need a car with turbo,I have yet to see a turbo based car that could outrun a police radio....

Did you figure out the power window problem? Looks like you're pretty handy with a paint gun and spray can!

And on the dark side: soon a post for a good 97 Subaru,never been abused and all maintenance done,needs clutch and transmission repairs.

Like you I should have been more detailed- did the cable break in the passenger compartment or at the actual hood latch component? Mine broke at the lever in the passenger compartment,by using pliers I'm able to pop the hood

Ok how long since plug wires were changed? Or more important any voltage at coil? Not to be an AH but is there fuel? And any response to question #3 from tapil?

Where did it break at?

How did you test for spark?And how many cylinders did you check? What kind of mileage on this car? Any idea of recent repairs or maintenance?

Walter: don't create anxiety over working on your own car. Assess what you have for tools,basic wrenches and ratches will get the job done.A floor jack and jack stands would be really nice to prop the front of the car up and allow extra space for sliding under at least for your first time.At some point you're gonna have to go under,differentiate between the engine and tranny and loosen the tranny pan drain bolt.If you happen to loosen the wrong one it's not the end of the world,you can replace whatever fluid you happen to drain. My biggest suggeston at this time would be to get yourself a Haynes or Chiltons repair manual and identify what's where.

Did you replace your t-stat since posting with Subaru OEM? Installed correct side up? This does sound more like restrictive coolant flow, if you honestly aren't adding any coolant and have no black crap in your overflow.Who is burping the system?

When i bought the car it had some goodyear somethings on it,very noisy but aggressive.We now have BF goodrich insignias that are wore down to the stops(60K) and this car is reacting to them in a bad way. I do need something that will grip but not be noisey.we make frequent trips to Arizona in the Jeep and the Toyos seem to perform.wondering if anybody has any experience with Toyos on their Subarus? Would be nice to take the Subaru once in awhile for the MPG

Hey all,been awhile- its time to retread the Legacy wagon and am wanting some opinions on whats best.Cost is not so much the factor compared to having a good set of all weather tires,but as the Leg has become our second vehicle don't want to spend so much. Have been looking at Toyo and Goodyear and snuck into WalMart to see what they have to offer,not to good of a selection compared to locals and TireRack.Don't need anything to agressive and enjoy a quiet ride. What's your thoughts and experiences?

vic- i believe there is a Napa and a carquest in Eureka,Mt,if not hop down to Kalispell where I know both are there along with O'reillys

One thing you don't want is the trailer brakes locking up,it takes lots of on hand experience but you want your trailer brakes just at the point of locking up just as happens with surge brakes on boat and camper trailers,if the trailer brakes are locked up they aren't doing you any good.

Any noticeable smoke from tailpipe,along that line how is your mpg and oil consumption?

Curious to know what the outcome of this was? OP any news?

They still got rednecks in Cali? Thought they'd have been run out by now:lol: Hope that works for awhile at least,did you try a Subie dealer for the washer?

I'll add a different perspective here.I sold air tools and compressors for years at Sears?Craftsman.For the average home owner doing DIY repairs and mechanics there is nothing wrong with the Sears/ Craftsman stuff.The new stuff offered though is a different story.Heat is the enemy,and Sears as many of the home improvement box stores has gone to the no oil lube system and I've found that these systems produce more heat which produces more moisture through the line to your tools,without adequate separation systems this will ruin not only your air tools but will ruin any attempt at a quality paint job.This is okay for the casual user who maintains their air tools,but be diligent with your sprayers.The main thing I've found with using Sears compressors to do any spraying is to not use just an air hose,design a system that runs through piping with oil and water separators/filters.Air tools can handle some moisture but be diligent with your oiling of your equipment.All air compressors produce moisture just from the simple fact they are compacting air,without the right equipment you'll never get results and if you don't bleed your compressor daily you are screwed.

Dang is that where I left it?

How about more specifics-mileage for sure.My Jeep at 181000 miles does this and it's a combo of slack in the drivetrain and where the tranny has to line up with the parking awl.Just the fact that your car is a 91 leads me to say that you've got to expect little things and have lots of pennies to keep up with it like your other post regarding your A/C noise.i would advise that you do a thorough inspection just to see if anything looks out of whack,if you don't have the knowledge or skills ask someone that does to take a look then go from there.It is very hard to diagnose problems/symptoms over the computer without sound or hands on.I'm not putting you down but as you'll learn description is everything and without specifics don't expect much.

The system we used to use at the dealership when I worked there was the Wynns system.This particular system involved disconnecting the fuel supply and hooking a can of cleaner to the schrader valve,unplug the fuel pump fuse and start the car.It would run for about 15 mins then die.the results were incredible and cured most customer complaints of sluggishness,poor idle and poor accelaration.I have run the Techron in my Jeep and was amazed at the performance diff,especially since we used to charge 89.99 for the fuel system cleaning at Chrysler.Whether or not this system will perform the same on Subies I can't tell you,to be honest of all the cars that came through that shop I never saw a Subie in for fuel problems.

Cause and effect-you're right there. Guess we need to hear whether they see any signs of coolant leaking on the ground or in the engine bay or whether the fans are working. I once had a 66 Stang that ran much better if the radiator was only 3/4 full,it would just spit the rest out as soon as it wanted,made me mad because the fan picked up all that fluid and flung it all over.

Okay but where does the cooling come in to play,if it's airlocked fluid won't pass by will it.I would think as described by the poster that by turning on the heater that provided enough air flow over the core to cool the engine also.Am i missing something here?

This is kind of confusing and I've noticed you all have stopped talking air in the system,but in my experiences if you have air in the system you don't get hot heat.By this I mean if they are able to turn on the heater and cool the engine down then fluid is flowing thru the heater core and thru the rest of the system, I garner this experience from older vehicles before electric fans,if the system was low on fluid or your core was plugged you didn't get heat or if you did it was only enough to defrost the front windshield.Of course if the core was plugged it wouldn't cause an overheat. please explain any work done to the cooling system where air might've got into the system. Excuse me for not remembering but after you filled the reservoir to 1/2 did it drop again and how much?

Exactly! Thanks Zefy you said it better then I ever could.Isn't the function of the rack more of a weight distibution factor then a tie down point? A kayak would normally be tied at the front and rear of the car instead of to the rack itself?