montana105

If you're serious about sueing the dealership then you'll probably want the advise of a competent attorney because the dealership probably has excellent attorneys on retainer and probably won't bluff if it comes down to it. Small claims courts usually have a maximum amount you can sue for and alot do not allow attorneys to represent in the courtroom,so unless the dealership promised a rental or towing in the event of failure you probably won't get that, you might claim mental anguish but??? As far involving SOA in the lawsuit I personally wouldn't do it unless you can prove they've allowed this dealership to repeatedly perform substandard repairs and not honor their warranty or commitments. That's just my .02 and I'm not a lawyer,all I'm trying to say is be prepared because it might end up costing you more then the original repair or what the car is worth.

It could actually be a spark plug and wire problem even though you just changed them-as has been posted on here numerous times OEM on these items.

A master tech wouldn't let the car leave with these problems

Ed-stand true to your guns,let the dealer have it and don't give in.the dealer has been letting inexperienced techs gain experience at your expense(time),there is nothing wrong with this practice except they aren't having a master tech check the work demand satisfaction and threaten them with BBB and SOA

Maybe we need to know what the hell is all hooked up to this thing,you've been showing us greasy grimed engines and then cleaned up engine bays(yes I did clean that up).give some descriptions as to what has really been done,what you've really checked and what you missed.

Did all vacuum lines get hooked back up,especially PCV?

If the intake/exhaust cams were switched would the engine be able to achieve the compression results posted in the first post,and if so would he not be able to rotate engine manually and see if intake or exhaust valve is opening at the correct time? Haven't worked on enough dual cam engines to know if this could be so.

I have found the same thing,guess it leads to great admins and someone with the hindsight to create an awesome sight.

Well since you change your own oil you would notice the buildup.If it was me I'd clean off any residue and then go on a very aggressive drive,then check the condition of the oil cap.You have not mentioned if this is a one off occurence which we need to know. The air filter determines what gets down below and is very important,you don't have to go Subaru but don't go cheap either

okay-well if the oil was just changed some questions. How long have you been finding the crud on the cap? Is this the first time,has it been getting worse over the course of oil changes? PCV's usually last longer but if you've got "extreme moisture" build up then you may look at it and see if it has the same crud on it which could be a bad sign. Although you are having someone change your oil next time ask them if it seems watery or cloudy or observe the oil dropping yourself. are you experiencing any driveabilty problems,over heating or heat loss?

How long since your last oil change? As OB said-this is a sign of condensation in your oil,it could be because of old oil and cold weather. check your PCV and replace if needed,it should help remove natural moisture build up.Have you checked your antifreeze/ radiator lately for signs of oil?

If you can afford it go with a new flywheel.I had mine resurfaced and while it works I don't like the feel and I was warned about this by the machine shop who did the turning.My clutch had also gotten pretty bad and it was getting hard to get it into first and shift up to third but it would still move and it didn't affect the hill hugger at all.Also stay away from the auto zone checker auto style clutches,they may be cheap and have good warranties but they don't cover the labor headache.The actual mechanics of doing the work yourself is fairly straight forward if you've got some skill,otherwise let a reputable shop do it.

as Nipper said,an accurate comp test is once again needed. From all the factors i'm seeing your timing is off,I think it's time to recheck and get a honest opinion on your timing belt marks lining up.not to be rude but i don't think your belt is lined up properly.yes your ECM may be shot but I don't know that i'm seeing the ability to diagnose that.From my personal experience 1 or 2 teeth makes a big difference in these Subies,and as I keep seeing you keep saying you're gonna see if the zone rents scanners but we never hear the results.Let us know if you ever retrieve scan codes or check your timing.

It would be very near impossible to get water or dirt from a low tank, it would have to be an instance where there was say 500 gallons of water in a 5000 gallon tank.My pumps shut down at approx 700 gallons The fuel you get at the nozzle is not pumped from the bottom of the tank,hence in reality even though a station may be out of fuel there is still upwards of 400 to 700 gallons of whatever in the bottom and if something was able to make it to the pump it should be caught by the pump filter. I would say you would be more likely to get bad fuel right after a delivery when things are all stirred up.the station operator would be well advised to do a water paste stick test and if there is a problem get it fixed before the State shows up to perform tests(hint-hint)

Sorry Jamal

Did I miss something here?

They aren't 40.00 each,it's 40.00 total plus shipping

Kind of lopsided but meet me at the border,no I was just kidding,more trying to point out that someone misread your quote.One would be hard pressed to find four steelies with rubber for 40.00 even if the rubber is no good,15.00 each here in Kalispell.Sorry for the confusion.

To me it looked like Ericem said $40 for all 4-not $ 40 each,I might be interested

Sorry to hear about your car.The good news is it isn't just Mass. A couple of weeks ago we had a State Trooper killed in a head on due to a lady reaching down to grab something and swerved into the cops lane.She got 6 months for careless driving resulting in death(pled no contest).The idiots are everywhere,they feel it is there right to drive and that it is easy as sleeping. Sorry.

would it take 24000 miles to experience this between the first and now,seems a little extreme to me,but who am I

Yes but have you asked the operator if they perhaps bought some cheap fuel or from another rack.I'll have to do some checking about the foggy fuel,fuel should be clear and strong smelling but really unless there is a very high amount of moisture in the fuel it shouldn't cause your concerns,anywhere from 0 moisture up to 20 gallons of water in a 20000 gallon tank system should never cause problems as ours will shut down when there is less then 800 gallons of fuel and the way the turbines are set up will never pump the bottom which is where water will settle.You didn't by chance get some diesel in your tank did you,diesel is usually as clear as gas anymore,but I guess it could be cloudy mixed with gas or when cold.Any excessive smoke?

Like was mentioned before it is almost unheard of anymore to get a bad batch of fuel. Did you happen to switch brands or get some rich ethanol or oxygenated fuel that wiped all the crud out of your tank and lines.Also did you say you pulled the line from the filter to the engine or from the tank to the filter. Not to scare you but is anyone else thinking this might be in the valve train?

Did somebody sugar your tank?

I'm gonna go with Walker on this.I also would start at basics since you don't imply any regular maintenance.I wouldn't spend any more money on sensors until you know the rest of the system(s) is/are working correctly.Spark plugs/wires,air and fuel filters are regular maintenance items,these things effect your sensors.