vic622

OK, confession time ... When you push the button with the squiggly lines, it will ~NOT~ activate the A/C, you ~must~ push the other button, marked (oddly enough) "A/C" for it to operate ... I feel like a complete newbie ... Problem solved, thanks for the help ... I'm on the way to find a rock to hide behind ...

The one under the dash only clicks when I push the A/C switch, independent of the blower speed switch. Not sure about the rad fans, I'll have to check that on the next drive.

The hi/lo is the switch for a low refrigerant level or high pressure, right?

OK time to take the console apart. BTW, would that be a relay under the dash I can hear click when I push the switch? And can this also not be actuating correctly?

Tried all the above - no luck

This one doesn't have auto A/C. Thanks, I was thinking it wouldn't work, too, if the compressor was hatched. I wonder if the A/C from the switch has a fuse, link or relay to actuate that is not part of the defrost circuit? I can't find a wiring chart ...

My 2007 Impreza 2.5i wagon's A/C is acting weird... The A/C works fine when the selector is set to defrost (both settings) but not when the A/C button is pushed and the selector is on any other setting (dash, dual or feet). The A/C light comes on & I can hear a switch or relay click under the dash but the idle stays low (doesn't change) and the air does not cool. If I put the selector to defrost (with or without the a/c button in the "On" position) the idle rises to about 1000rpm and the air starts to cool. I had this problem last year and a local garage replaced the compressor (with a used part) saying it was cratered (~$900 total) ... Before I go back to them, is there any other switch, relay or whatever that might be causing the problem?

Seems to me I did this on my OBW, too & it cleared up some noise issues I had with it. I'm surprised that they would degrade enough to be noisy after (only) 5yrs and 140,000km.

I've upgraded my '98 OBW to an '07 Impreza 2.5i wagon and besides the way quicker acceleration, I've also noticed suspension differences. The Impreza sounds a lot clunkier than the OBW. Is this normal or have I got some issues? I thought it was my imagination until I drove the GF's OBW & nope, I wasn't imagining it. I know that the LH rear strut is leaking & needs to be replaced, but the clunks seems to come from both back corners. Can it be the upper mounts? Looking at how many companies make them, I start to think that they tend to fail. Is this the case?

On the OBW, the factory made the plugs hide in the loom if they weren't being used. They were taped in with the other wires so you needed to know where they were hidden in order to find them - made the search more fun! Before I get crazy & start to rip into the Impreza's loom, I'd like to know if they are in there or not.

I bought an Impreza 2.5i wagon two weeks ago & as its a base model, I'm going to want to add some factory "options". My '98 OBW wiring harnesses had plugs for all the factory accessories & upgrades, is this true for an '07 Impreza? The things I want to add are heated seats, fogs - Things that have dash/console switches. What about WRX & STI electrical options? I don't know what these might be, but I'll put it out there, anyhow

Try this: It might be on the other side of the Steering Column like this: To clear the codes, with the ignition "Off", connect the Diagnostic Terminal then turn the ignition to "Run" without starting the engine and follow the instructions on the 2nd Picture. Hope this helps. Vic Here's a list of codes in case you want to see what Codes are coming up: ABS DTC list 11 – Start Code, DTC is shown after start code, Only start code is shown in normal condition Abnormal ABS sensor, open circuit or voltage too high 21 – front right ABS sensor 23 – front left ABS sensor 25 – rear right ABS sensor 27 – rear left ABS sensor Abnormal ABS sensor, abnormal ABS sensor signal 22 – front right ABS sensor 24 – front left ABS sensor 26 – rear right ABS sensor 28 – rear left ABS sensor 29 – any one of four Abnormal solenoid valve circuits in ABS control module and hydraulic unit 31 – Front right inlet valve 32 – Front right outlet valve 33 – Front left inlet valve 34 – Front left outlet valve 35 – Rear right inlet valve 36 – Rear right outlet valve 37 – Rear left inlet valve 38 – Rear left outlet valve 41 – Abnormal ABS control module 42 – Source voltage is abnormal 44 – A combination of AT control abnormal 51 – Abnormal valve relay 52 – Abnormal motor and/or motor relay 54 – Abnormal stop light switch 56 – Abnormal G sensor output voltage

I'll see if it holds the reset every time I leave my (gravel) driveway and drive the road (gravel) to the highway ... Or next weekend when I need to drive the highest pass in the Rockies - There'll likely be snow! Oh yeah, forgot to mention the brakes worked good on the way home when a wild Turkey decided to cross the highway in front of me ...

Okay and now it gets bizarre I did some calling and found a sensor in town (about 40 miles away) and hopped in the car to pick it up. ABS light is on the whole way. Pull the sensor from a 96 Forester ($20) and head over to the Subaru dealership to have it checked out. ABS light is on. Sensor checks out fine ~1Kohm. ABS light is on. Go to the grocery store, pick up some stuff and head for the highway ... ABS light comes on at start up then GOES OUT!. ABS light stays out all the way home!!!! I guess I just needed to threaten it?!? Actually, I think that the cleaning I did yesterday may have fixed it, BUT, the initial drive was partly on gravel and was bumpy (about 3-4 mins, 1/2 mile) .... I wonder if this caused the ABS controller to not reset properly. Either way, I now have a new sensor if it happens again.