vic622

OK, confession time ... When you push the button with the squiggly lines, it will ~NOT~ activate the A/C, you ~must~ push the other button, marked (oddly enough) "A/C" for it to operate ... I feel like a complete newbie ... Problem solved, thanks for the help ... I'm on the way to find a rock to hide behind ...

The one under the dash only clicks when I push the A/C switch, independent of the blower speed switch. Not sure about the rad fans, I'll have to check that on the next drive.

The hi/lo is the switch for a low refrigerant level or high pressure, right?

OK time to take the console apart. BTW, would that be a relay under the dash I can hear click when I push the switch? And can this also not be actuating correctly?

Tried all the above - no luck

This one doesn't have auto A/C. Thanks, I was thinking it wouldn't work, too, if the compressor was hatched. I wonder if the A/C from the switch has a fuse, link or relay to actuate that is not part of the defrost circuit? I can't find a wiring chart ...

My 2007 Impreza 2.5i wagon's A/C is acting weird... The A/C works fine when the selector is set to defrost (both settings) but not when the A/C button is pushed and the selector is on any other setting (dash, dual or feet). The A/C light comes on & I can hear a switch or relay click under the dash but the idle stays low (doesn't change) and the air does not cool. If I put the selector to defrost (with or without the a/c button in the "On" position) the idle rises to about 1000rpm and the air starts to cool. I had this problem last year and a local garage replaced the compressor (with a used part) saying it was cratered (~$900 total) ... Before I go back to them, is there any other switch, relay or whatever that might be causing the problem?

Seems to me I did this on my OBW, too & it cleared up some noise issues I had with it. I'm surprised that they would degrade enough to be noisy after (only) 5yrs and 140,000km.

I've upgraded my '98 OBW to an '07 Impreza 2.5i wagon and besides the way quicker acceleration, I've also noticed suspension differences. The Impreza sounds a lot clunkier than the OBW. Is this normal or have I got some issues? I thought it was my imagination until I drove the GF's OBW & nope, I wasn't imagining it. I know that the LH rear strut is leaking & needs to be replaced, but the clunks seems to come from both back corners. Can it be the upper mounts? Looking at how many companies make them, I start to think that they tend to fail. Is this the case?

On the OBW, the factory made the plugs hide in the loom if they weren't being used. They were taped in with the other wires so you needed to know where they were hidden in order to find them - made the search more fun! Before I get crazy & start to rip into the Impreza's loom, I'd like to know if they are in there or not.

I bought an Impreza 2.5i wagon two weeks ago & as its a base model, I'm going to want to add some factory "options". My '98 OBW wiring harnesses had plugs for all the factory accessories & upgrades, is this true for an '07 Impreza? The things I want to add are heated seats, fogs - Things that have dash/console switches. What about WRX & STI electrical options? I don't know what these might be, but I'll put it out there, anyhow

Try this: It might be on the other side of the Steering Column like this: To clear the codes, with the ignition "Off", connect the Diagnostic Terminal then turn the ignition to "Run" without starting the engine and follow the instructions on the 2nd Picture. Hope this helps. Vic Here's a list of codes in case you want to see what Codes are coming up: ABS DTC list 11 – Start Code, DTC is shown after start code, Only start code is shown in normal condition Abnormal ABS sensor, open circuit or voltage too high 21 – front right ABS sensor 23 – front left ABS sensor 25 – rear right ABS sensor 27 – rear left ABS sensor Abnormal ABS sensor, abnormal ABS sensor signal 22 – front right ABS sensor 24 – front left ABS sensor 26 – rear right ABS sensor 28 – rear left ABS sensor 29 – any one of four Abnormal solenoid valve circuits in ABS control module and hydraulic unit 31 – Front right inlet valve 32 – Front right outlet valve 33 – Front left inlet valve 34 – Front left outlet valve 35 – Rear right inlet valve 36 – Rear right outlet valve 37 – Rear left inlet valve 38 – Rear left outlet valve 41 – Abnormal ABS control module 42 – Source voltage is abnormal 44 – A combination of AT control abnormal 51 – Abnormal valve relay 52 – Abnormal motor and/or motor relay 54 – Abnormal stop light switch 56 – Abnormal G sensor output voltage

I'll see if it holds the reset every time I leave my (gravel) driveway and drive the road (gravel) to the highway ... Or next weekend when I need to drive the highest pass in the Rockies - There'll likely be snow! Oh yeah, forgot to mention the brakes worked good on the way home when a wild Turkey decided to cross the highway in front of me ...

Okay and now it gets bizarre I did some calling and found a sensor in town (about 40 miles away) and hopped in the car to pick it up. ABS light is on the whole way. Pull the sensor from a 96 Forester ($20) and head over to the Subaru dealership to have it checked out. ABS light is on. Sensor checks out fine ~1Kohm. ABS light is on. Go to the grocery store, pick up some stuff and head for the highway ... ABS light comes on at start up then GOES OUT!. ABS light stays out all the way home!!!! I guess I just needed to threaten it?!? Actually, I think that the cleaning I did yesterday may have fixed it, BUT, the initial drive was partly on gravel and was bumpy (about 3-4 mins, 1/2 mile) .... I wonder if this caused the ABS controller to not reset properly. Either way, I now have a new sensor if it happens again.

Yup, sure enough, the newer issues give a "403 Forbidden" message

I couldn't even get the site to load 2 days ago, but it seems to be up today. Like you said, hopefully this is was a temporary glitch. I was able to follow your links, as well as going through the front door at http://www.endwrench.com

How do I confirm which system it is? Will this be on any model (Legacy, Forester, Impreza) with ABS in these years, or just OBW?

So it looks as though its the sensor. There was a 1/4' scrape on the sensor boot, so we must have hit it when we were changing the ball joint. It was a bugger to test, but it was only reading about 500 ohms and seemed intermittent - almost like the wire at the connector (in the engine bay) was broken. I cleaned the tone ring with a wire wheel & it looks good and no sign of any cracks. The gap was about .040" and the sensor had some filings on it which I cleaned with brake cleaner. I cleared the codes, but it's still reading errors, #24 plus a bunch of others. Time to try the wreckers and see if anyone has a sensor! What years and models have the same sensors? Mine is a 98OBW with AT.

I hadn't thought of that - worth doing a comparison.

Okay, so I had another look at the diagrams and see what you mean. Kinda sucks to have to go through all that to get the hub off - I guess that'll be a project for another day! I'm going to remove the speed sensor today & have a look & clean and see if it makes any difference. If I take the caliper/rotor off, can I get at enough of the tone ring to clean it while the hub is still attached? There aren't enough wreckers around here to get my choice of year/make/model, if the sensor is cratered, I might take you up on salvaging one for me

Good news about the tone ring - this car has spent its life on the Prairies and the Rockies, so I'm thinking its not rust belt issues, at least not for cracking. When you pull the front hub, does that screw up the bearings? Seals? From the diagrams, it looks like the tone ring is attached to the hub with allen bolts and doesn't look like it's gotta have the bearings removed to take it off? Where did you pick up your sensor? The best price I could find was https://www.subaruonlineparts.com for ~$102.

BTW, Thanks for your help, GD. The ABS light came on Sunday, after changing the LF ball joint. It hadn't been on before. I suspect either some crud dropped off the backing plate or rotor onto the tone ring or speed sensor from all the banging around to free the ball joint. We were pretty careful, & there aren't any signs that we smacked the speed sensor, so I'm hoping its not that. I wanted to pull some fresh ABS codes before tearing apart the front hub to check the tone ring.

Okay, now you've got me confused So I can clear the codes while the problem still exists? When I start the car (after clearing) it should run the checks & come up with a new set of codes - these may be the same as the cleared codes? A faulty G-sensor (code 56) may just be a code thrown because something else (like a LF speed sensor code 24) is faulty? From the new codes, I should be able to isolate the problem(s)?

Are old codes stored, or only existing codes/current problems? I wanted to clear any/all old codes so I could isolate the current problem before I started repairs. Once I had any old codes cleared, I'd go for a test drive and any codes would be the thing(s) I need to check or repair. From what you say, it doesn't work this way? Any codes displayed are current problems?