vic622

Good idea ... I'll finish my coffee & get things cleared & reread. BTW, yesterday it read about 6 different codes, but the first code to come up (the most recent?) was a 24. The Connector was still taped to the loom, so I doubt that it was ever read/cleared before.

Today I should be able to get the codes cleared & tear things apart & have a look to see if anything is obvious. How hard is it to change the tone ring? Do I need to take the hub off?

Thanks - It's funny that the description doesn't quite match the diagram. I'll give your method a try. What is even weirder is that I drove it after and the ABS light (which is why I want to clear & check) was off and came back on after about 1.5mi of driving.

98 OBW 2.5 DOHC AT I can't seem to clear the ABS codes. Here's what I've done: Key out Connect Diagnosis Connector to #6 Terminal Key to "On" Read codes until ABS light stays steady on Disconnect Diagnosis Connector from #6 Terminal Within 12 sec, connect & disconnect 3x Diagnosis Connector to #6 Terminal Key "Off" When I repeat the Read cycle, the stored codes are still there ... Help! From this diagram, should I be reconnecting the Diagnosis Connector after I've done the 3x connect/disconnect?

Hey Mike, I think you'll find that the OEManufacturer changes & probably fairly frequently as Subaru re-tenders its parts - I have a feeling that this probably is at least every time they have a replacement part number. EG: the Current Koyo Smooth Idler Pulley is Subaru part number: 13073AA142 which superceded: 13073AA180 which replaced: 13073AA082 I have a feeling that these earlier numbers stand a pretty good chance to have bearings from another OEM (NTN, NSK etc.). Vic

Hey guys, Sorry for not replying quicker, for some reason the board is not sending me email notifications?!? Yeah, there are a number of makers who supply Subaru with parts (likely to spec), but I can't see Koyo making an Idler bearing for Subaru and another for the aftermaket simultaneously - wouldn't make economic sense, especially when the bearing/OEM marketplace is so competitive. So far, I can tell you that for the CDN market (and presumably the US market as well) the current makers are: 13073AA142 Smooth Idler Pulley (x2) = Koyo 13085AA085 Cogged Idler Pulley = NSK 13033AA042 Belt Tensioner (1 piece - complete) = NTN When I've sourced them, I'll edit this post to let you know where I picked them up. I have the numbers from the bearings, but as grossgary helped me to understand (thanks for your patience, Gary ), these are bearing NOT assembly numbers, so they are of little/no use. Vic

I DIY whenever I can, but its still kinda cool out here & I needed a longblock R&R, so I didn't do the work myself, this time. :-\ It sure looks & sounds neat on the engines with timing gears, though. I've seen this on a few older Toyota race-prepped cars. Just don't put your hand in there when the motor is running ... BTW, I'm not referring to just the bearing, but the complete Idlers & Tensioner pulleys as they'd bolt onto the block - the equivalent to a Timing Belt kit, less the belt. The parts are already in the engine, in the car, otherwise I could look at them & read the numbers off the seals.

I need to replace the parts that have already been installed in my engine. The belt is easy, it needs to be a Subaru stamped item, but the idlers & tensioner aren't Subaru stamped, so I can get NSK, NTN or whatever is the same as would be in a Subaru box. I've tried a bunch of different searches here & on other boards but sometimes getting the right search terms can be a pain.

I thought there was a list of OEM bearing manufacturer's somewhere on the site but I can't seem to find it. I need to know the maker/part number for the OEM Timing belt Idlers (Smooth & Cogged) and Tensioner (new style 1-piece) for 1998 (or 1999) EJ25 DOHC. I.E.: NSK-12345 or NTN-6789 or XXXX-YYZZ ? note: Not the Subaru #'s Thanks

So all is repaired and the OBW is back on the road I got a longblock from Whitey's in Spokane (Almost 90,000 miles less than my old block) & mated this with my intake & sensors. The front and rear seals were very clean - saved having to change them. Got rid of the dead mouse under the intake, didn't think it would make it go any faster Put on a new timing belt and idlers-tensioners while we had it out - neither block had good stuff, and the old block had a Dayco belt, now its Subaru. Discovered that the front top leak on the old block wasn't only the ps-pump but also the pressure sender unit. One more thing fixed, one less to leak Did a road trip Thursday-Friday (~2hrs) and it pulled fine -at least as good and maybe better than the old longblock - with no signs of overheating. All is good

sorry, double post

How hard were you able to drive it? I live in the mountains & have more than a few 1 mile uphill grades in the area. I drove it 60km (~40mi) each way yesterday at 80kmph (~50mph) with the heat on full blast and didn't have a problem, how long I could do this without a catastrophic failure ?!?

Carquest doesn't carry it (and can't get it for Monday) & Napa was closed when I called them - I'll try again tomorrow to see if they have it. If I need to go to Kalispell, I'll have to convince the neighbour who's giving me a lift to pick up the block to see if he's willing to go for an extra 1hr road trip to pick up a jug of oil Maybe if pick up all the OE parts from Glacier Subaru at the same time ...

I checked it out & I can't get it locally and not before Monday when the transplant is happening. I sent an email to Valvoline tech to ask if I can use the one of the other types - if you go on their site, they have a link to a pdf that doesn't even show this for the Asian cars?!? The others are low-silicate so we'll see what they have to say.

The rad should be good - I've been driving the car for 6mos before the dreaded HG failure. Does CarQuest or NAPA have an equivalent? I can hit them when I pick up the long block in Montana - No Advance Auto in Eureka. $$$ Ain't that the truth! - But still not as bad as the cost of a long block

Engine VIN Code 6 = Phase 1 or 2? For sure going to put on a new rad cap & t-stat.

Replacement Long block: 110,000 miles, Comp= 190/185/185/185 So I'll be changing long block on Monday and I want to know about coolant type and brand. No matter what, I'll be adding the Subaru/Holts stop-leak additive. I'll do a good flush of the system before adding new coolant. Do I want to or need to use ONLY OEM Subaru coolant, or can I use another HOAT or OAT (Dex-Cool) type coolant? EG: Zerex G-05 (HOAT) or Zerex Dex-Cool (OAT) What are the alternatives? or Suck it up and buy the Subaru OE Coolant? Vic

I like that - Self-burping rad cap! Luckily I'll only need to drive it a bit for the next few days until it goes in the shop, Monday for the long-block transplant. Thanks.

Luck wasn't on my side this time ... its the HG. I took it in and the mechanic did a drive and there was foam in the overflow & it smelled of exhaust. I've got a used long block coming in on Friday & it'll be R&R'd on Monday. It'll come in at about 1/2 the cost of doing the heads, not great when you're off work, but better than some of the other options.

My problem, too, shoulda got out the calculator I have a very limited history for the car. I know the timing belt & I think, the tensioners, were done at the last major service - that was for the guy I bought the car from. He had it 4-5yrs. Prior to that there are no dealer records. Looking at it, Subaru mech & I figured that it didn't look as though the heads were ever removed.

Just thought of this - Do I need to remove the rad cap to burp these?

So drive slow to dealership, keep an eye on the gauge, look for smoke ... Get a Rad Cap & thermo (thermo gasket?) & replace ASAP, see if it helps? While I'm there, is the hydrocarbon test a for sure for HG or only if its piston to coolant galley?

1998 OBW, 335,000km (~208,000mi) No idea of headgasket history prior to me buying it last summer. Subaru Rad Stop leak added when I bought it - coolant only in overflow B4. No known history of overheating. No known history of head gasket replacement. It's possible I had overfilled the Coolant overflow a month ago. I did a road trip this weekend, ~1000km (~620mi) total. On the last leg today (~500km or ~320mi), I stopped for Gas at about 2/3 the trip, all okay. No sign of temp rising entire trip. At the end of the trip, I stopped at home & I smelled antifreeze & noticed some (very little) of steam coming from the hood & a little bit of coolant on the ground (less than 1/4 cup). I popped the hood & there was signs of some coolant close to the overflow and some on the valve cover. I opened the overflow & checked, but with the Subaru stop-leak it's always hard to tell the level. I turned the igiition switch to run & it was reading hot. I started the motor up & turned the heater fan on hot/full blower. No bad sounds. The temp came down very quickly, maybe 1-2mins to normal running temp. I added coolant to the overflow, but before I could add 1/4 cup, it was showing full (hot). I brought the revs up, no signs of burping. Temp remained stable. I drove it 1/2 mile & the temp started to rise to just above 1/2 way on gauge, so I opened the heater/blower to full & the temp came back to normal operating. Do you figure the head gasket is cratered? If its toast or close, can I limp it to the dealership (the one I trust) that's about 60km (35mi) away?

Good to know!

That's good to know. I had added an STP stop leak product, but it didn't seem to have any effect. I'll give this stuff a try. When I get around to doing a flush, I'll replace the o-ring. Hopefully these together should solve the problem. It just has that funny habit of dripping down the front of the timing cover/engine and onto the exhaust & I'm getting tired of that certain smell every time I get out of the car. :-p