cubastreet
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Posts posted by cubastreet
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A lot of 70s jap cars look like the mk1 cortina as well (subarus, datsuns, mitsubishis etc.
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Mitsubishi call it the 4G63 (as in 4 cyl)
It's their standard 2 litre inline 4, a very popular engine they've been doing since the 80s.
Comes turbocharged too, think EVO
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Looks like a centrifugal blower. Read up about them to make sure that's the kind of (peaky) power delivery you want.
Don't listen to poo poo offerings from people who haven't and never will try things like this. If you want to give it a try, do it!
I'm trying to get hold of an eaton for my ea engine. Probablt a M45 from a mini cooper s
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Check the repair manual, there's a full writeup somewhere
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Also check the choke is working correctly. If it's auto choke, make sure it's fully open when the engine's warmed up.
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More importantly, how were the ribs?
Are you certain the rear brakes arent shagged?
Like syonyk said, pull the pads off. Perhaps there's a piece of something jammed between the rotor and the pads.
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I noticed another article titled subaru 1600 that could be integrated. Didn't check for 1400 or 1800.
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Here in NZ all the gen2s are called leones, whether they be coupes or wagons, ea81, ea82 or ea82t. There are some late ones badged omega, I think the ones with airbag suspension, but people still call them leones. brumbies/brats were never officially given a model name - mine's registered as a MPV.
As for the 'different engines and drivetrains' argument; take a look at the toyota corolla or honda civic - they have models so different you wouldn't guess they're the same car without seeing the badge. At least all the leones look pretty much the same. Some had front wheel driwe and some part time 4wd but they're the same 4cyl boxer longitudinally mounted, mcphersons in front, torsion in back (except the airbag ones).
I say go for leone. People will still find the article through keyword 'subaru gl' etc searches.
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Yes, you need to bleed brakes every time you open the hyraulics.
Rule of thumb for bleeding is to bleed the wheel farthest from the brake master cylinder first, and the one next to the master cylinder last. Doing this means that no bubbles can get trapped.
So, for a LHD vehicle it would be RR, LR, RF, LF.
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Cheers for the link - was looking at that thread the other day, think they're doing front diffs tho.
Spent a lot of rainy Sunday reading through posts on diffs, lots of info just not the bit i need.
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bump,
I see in the manual the original diff has only two spider gears which is a bit of a bummer.
Anyone know if they're the same? The weather's too nasty today to go out and visit the dealer.
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Agreed, they're great cars.
While my brumby's getting a birthday, my daily driver at the moment is a 1978 Mitsubishi Lancer (sold back then in the US as some sort of colt). It's RWD which is quite nice, but doesn't make me grin like my subie does.
In the mitsi everything in it is cheap flimsy plastic, which I kinda like in a kitschy sorta way.
Hop into the sube, and everything's well thought out and well made. I love the solid clumk as you open the ashtray in my gen1. It half makes me want to smoke.
Start it up and drive it, and you really know you're in control of a machine. I think the rack and pinion steering goes a long way toward the feel and enjoyment, most cars I've owned have had a steering box.
Throw it at a bit of rough terrain and instead of screaming and scraping, it just goes "yeeha!" and gets on with it.
I plan to keep mine for a long time.
Yay for dual range also!
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Why not turbo it, but reduce the boost to maybe 3-4psi?
Should handle it ok.
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Does anyone who's swapped a VLSD into an open diff case know if the spider gears are the same?
I just got a 4.111 VLSD with c-clip stub axles real cheap, but the concave washers that sit behind the spider gears are broken. The teeth on the gears aren't too bad, I just want to know if the washers in my open 3.9 diff will fit before I pull it apart.
Jeremy
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I love the enthusiasm.
Whereabouts in NZ are you?
your library may have a book on supercharging.
Basically you just need to fabricate a pipe from the turbo to the IC inlet and from the outlets to the cylinder inlets.
Simple in theory but probably will take a fair bit of time and coin.
Don't know what the ideal diameter pipe for an ea82 is, maybe someone here can help you on that. too small and it'll restrict flow, too big and it'll add lag as all that airspace has to be compressed too.
Avoid any sharp bends in the pipe. Like cars, air goes round smooth bends better.
Make sure it's all airtight and able to contain the pressures you're putting on it.
Make sure it's flexible enough not to crack when everything moves about.
Make sure it's able to withstand the heat involved.
Mount the IC somewhere wher it'll get a good flow of cold air.
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You sir, have too many cars!
At least someone's looking after a few old subes though, instead of crushing them.
I'll probably be in chch for a few days around christmas time, to visit my brother. I'll get in touch if I am, would be good to have a look at your collection.
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That's a damn good score Johnny, I payed a grand for my 81.
We should have a NZ oldskool sub meet sometime, that's three 81 brumbies spread across the country on this board.
I've got my rego on hold until December, and should be back on the road by then.
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Watch out - they're pretty addictive those old subbies.
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Get a double pole switch and tap the one that goes live when the key is in the run position AND the one that goes live when you turn it to start. Don't know the colour codes offhand but both will be thick wires.
To find these wires it's easiest if you have a multimeter. First, pull apart the ignition loom connector, connect the -ve multimeter lead to an earthed chassis point, set the multimeter to 20v dc and find which wire is live (thick one) on the loom going to the engine bay.
Then switch the multimeter to the smallest ohm setting, connect one lead to the corresponding 'live' wire but on the ignition switch side of the connector. Turn the key to 'run' and find which connector shows 0 ohms. Make sure it's the right one by turning the key to 'acc', it should go to an open circuit.
Use the same technique to find the starter circuit - should be 0 ohms when the key is turned to start but open when not.
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Finally got a reasonable settlement agreement after my accident 4 months ago.
It will be back on the road soon!
Jeremy.
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Swap glass for perspex
remove passenger seat
carpets
front grill
exhaust!
take the sides off the bed with an angle grinder
remove the dash
aerial
anything that'll come off!
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Posting to it only keeps it near the top. :-p
Stop posting and it will go away.
+1
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That trippple stripe on the red brumby looks awesome!
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If using filler on your car don't apply it to bare steel because it absorbs moisture. Then any tiny scratch or chip in the topcoat lets water in and the whole lot goes rusty. Always prime the steel before applying filler.
Ford G63 in a Loyale
in Subaru Transplants
Posted
I get it - fordG63.
Don't know too much about them, but they did a wideblock and a narrowblock - one for lonitudinal and one for traverse mounting. The starion had a turbo engine to RWD so might be the one to go for if you want power.
The increased centre of gravity probably won't help with cornering though.