danbennett2u
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Posts posted by danbennett2u
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OK, thanks, I dont want to mess with it to the extent of replacing the door, so I will just live with it. I figured it might be slightly bent, but it isnt bad enough to worry about... I will probably just figure out how to adjust the switch so the light doesn't flicker when things get bouncy
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Is there a way to "pull" the door in closer to the body? My Legacy was hit lightly in the front passenger door before I bought it, and the door does not close as tightly as it should.... If I go over dirt roads, etc the light flickers, and there is a little wind noise at all times. I can push the door in about a quarter inch when it is closed and latched. I am trying to find out if there is a way to move the latch so it secures a little tighter in to the body. I tried loosening the screws on the latch in the door and the striker but neither really offer any adjustment that i can see. I thought there was some way to adjust this, am I mistaken?
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Quick question: does the oil have to be drained before removing the valve covers, or can i just take them off without losing all of my oil on the ground?
Thanks
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If I put the Lucas additive in that would go in the transmission fluid right? It wouldn't screw up the rest of the tranny?
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If it does it when idling and not when driving It probably is just a motor or transmission mount, not likely related to CV's since they wouldn't be moving.
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Well, the 1-2 shift is pretty hard sometimes (not always though...) and it does have an external filter which I have not changed. I have "changed" the fluid twice, but not done a full flush. nipper in a post today you said low line pressure could cause delays in engagement: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80703
I think I will start with a real flush and a new filter first, since it wont hurt even if that isnt the problem, and I like to start with the cheap solutions than jumping right to a transmission replacement.
I bought the car with 232k miles on it, and although I dont have any service records I found out it was owned previously by a mechanic that works at a local dealership. Since the rest of the car is in great shape I wouldn't be surprised if the packs have already been serviced, or if the transmission had been replaced (of course I would imagine the filter could have already been relpaced as well).
I appreciate all of the response on this thread and it definitely got me started on some things to try.
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Clutch packs or Solenoid C. I'm going to guess that it's probably solenoid C slowly reacting, not the clutchpacks because of the lack of clunk. Either way requires dropping at least the tail part of the transmission for a replacement. If it's worth it to you, you can go that route. For the amount of time/money involved, I'd just deal with it.
Is it possible that a sensor controlling the solenoid (such as a VSS) would cause it to act this way? From what I read here most of the C solenoid failures cause the car to go into AWD all the time.
It's my wife's car and concern for her safety dictates I at least give a shot at fixing it. AWD is one of the main reasons we both got Subarus, it would be a shame for it to live the rest of its life without it...(and yes even with 270k miles it runs and drives much better than mine with 180k
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OK, I thought I saw this on here somewhere but I cannot find it using search.
Car: 92 legacy AWD auto..270k miles
AWD works, but is very slow to react... I can spin the front tires for about a second before I can feel the rears kick in and help pull the car. It does not clunk or jerk, just seems to engage after a long delay. Not a huge issue in normal driving, but really sucks in the snow.
Any ideas?
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I will try different plugs when I get a chance and let you guys all know if it helps or not
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Tough to imagine what your hearing, but rooster-dude may have something there with his comment. My wife's Volvo got this annoying ping-y rattle-y type noise from some of the heat shield on her exhaust system near the engine. I'd never heard the noise before, so it took a bit to figure out its source.
Only thing for your case, though, hers did make the noise while at idle and/or in park, so that might rule it out as a possibility...
Well Our 92 does that as well, The noises I am hearing are less metallic than the exhaust rattling, and a bit slower, like it may be from one or two cylinders, rather than in tune with engine vibrations.
The best description I can think of right now is a cross between a zip-tie being slowly tightened (but the clicks not spaced evenly) and the aforementioned exhaust rattling
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I would if I bought cars new... It would have to have some good marketing in order to make it appeal to most new car buyers though, couldn't just stick it out there and hope it sold.
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yeah I have heard bad cv;s and it is definitely not that... not quite the same type of sound, and definitely from the engine. I have tried upping the octane but didn't notice a difference, although I haven't noticed it when the engine is cold so it very well could be pinging I guess...
I don't really know the maintainence histories of either cars, the 93 I have only put about 4k miles on, and our 92 we bought with 232k on it
I have run seafoam through the gas and intake on both cars, I don't think that did anything to the sound...and the 92 does have newish spark plugs on it.
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I apologize if this has been answered before... but it is happening on both our 92 Legacy with 268k miles and our 93 Legacy with 182k. Seems to be worse on the 93 which seems to have been maintained less strictly.
Anyway, this occurs under a low to moderate load when warm usually around 2-3k rpm... higher or lower rpm has no sound. Reving to that speed with no load does not cause the noise, and if I hear the noise stepping on the gas a little more makes it go away.
The noise is somewaht metallic... I haven't heard pinging before but this doesn't really "ping"... it is more like a clacking/ticking type sound... it is not in rhythm like lifters, not quite random though. Almost like very small impacts are happening to small pieces of metal that aren't large enough to vibrate or feel through the normal engine vibrations. It almost sounds like it is coming from the valve train but I cant tell since I cant duplicate it while it is parked.
Is this indeed pinging, or could it be excessive carbon around the rockers? Sorry I cant provide much more info or a sound clip but I will try to answer questions if you have any that might help
Is this indeed pinging?
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Thanks guys, not wanting to spend any $$ (I know, I'm a cheapskate) I just pulled the plug and put a jumper on it. I figure since I am in Colorado I don't have to worry about humidity and condensation as much. No problems yet, and the a/c now gets (and stays) nice and cold!
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Well, I got the inner one working, it looked pretty dried out and gummed up. All I had around was a spray bottle of armor all and I figured it leaves a nice film of grease on my dash, so I sprayed a bunch in there LOL. It has worked fine since then so I guess it was just sticking somehow.
As far as the outer one, I might try some JBweld if I can't find anything out, either that or it might just be easier to replace the whole door.
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I have all kinds of issues with the doors on my new 92 Legacy.
1st: both front outside door handles are not attached to the door any more (other than by the linkage to the latches). I cannot figure out how they are supposed to be attached... when I pulled the interior panel on the driver side I do not see any attachment points??
2nd: My driver side interior door release handle does not work. I can see that it pulls the rod to the latch, and seems to move fine, but it looks like there is too much play between the parts of the mechanism. I do not see anything broken and am confused as to why this isn't working. Is there an adjustment anywhere?
Please help!! it is getting embarrassing to have to roll down my window and reach outside the car to pull on the dangling door handle just to get out of the car!
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I have found info on bypassing this, and that it keeps the evap from freezing.
My question is wouldn't that damage something? Why would subaru put that sensor there if not?
Also, what is the part number for the replacement and can you get this part at autozone or checker, etc.
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GL-10s have Power everything, digital dash, trip computer, cruise control, and upgraded interior cloth. Pretty much across the board. Every one I've ever seen has a sunroof.
How about adjustable struts.. were those standard on all 4wd GL-10s?
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I can't seem to find any info on what is standard on the 85 GL-10 package..
I see most GL-10's have sunroof's but I am not sure if this is an option or standard... what other options or standard equipment would this trim level have? If there is a link somewhere on here could someone please post it, I cant find anything!
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Thanks for the replies, I can get the OEM one at my dealer I think, I was just trying to determine if I could get one at the cheapo parts places since they are more convienent to me.
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I know the subaru part number of the add-on filter, I was wondering if anyone knows of is an equivilent replacement filter I could pick up at the local autozone or napa, etc?
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Hi,
I am getting worried about my 92 Legacy. It is starting to jerk to the right with ruts or steering wheel movement, and when jacked up the wheel will move around so much that it looks like the brakes are the only thing holding it on the car!
I am assuming it is bearings, How hard is it to do bearings on a Legacy?
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Hi everyone,
My 92 Legacy AWD is seriously wandering, I think I may need a new bearing or axle, but am hoping that just an alignment may cure it. Subie has 245k miles on her. Can anyone recommend a cheap place to get an alignment done that would also let me know if there are other issues?
I was thinking Super Rupair in Boulder, but I have a feeling they are on the expensive side. Any other suggestions from folks in Northern Colorado/North Denver area?
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Is this something I can do at home with moderate mechanical ability, but not so good selection of tools?
"Brake" light on on cold mornings
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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We have the same issue... it started one really cold morning when it felt like one side cable of the parking brake snapped or something. The parking brake still works, just not as well, and there was no effect on the normal hydraulic circuit.... never had any issue with the light before this, so at least on ours it doesn't seem to be the fluid or a sensor in the MC. I haven't done much troubleshooting yet but definitely let us know what fixes it for your case!