drugh

Long story, but my rear main engine seal crapped the bed. While I am fixing it and I have the trans out I would like to replace the output shaft seal and the seals on the front diff around the stub axles...they all leak slightly. Does anyone have part numbers for these items? Also, the front seals sit behind a lip and it looks like they will be difficult to get back in the right place. Anyone have any hints for these?

Its not the master cylinder I replaced that six months ago, its not the caliper I just put a new reman on two days ago. I dont think its the rear pads they are 1 year old. Point is, brakes worked alright (minus the sticky caliper) before I put the new caliper and hose on. The calipers should "adjust" so that the pads are right up against the rotor when there is no pedal applies, but they have not. If you take off the cover on the console, the right ebrake cable engages before the left cable engages, suggesting that the pads on the left are farther away from the rotor. Can I adjust the cable on the left to take up the slack? Or turn the left piston counterclockwise to make it stick out farther?

I had a sticking caliper last week, I would smell hot brakes when I parked the car, shaky wheels on the highway. Replaced the LF caliper and rubber brake line. Pads and rotors are 6 months old. The brake pads went in correctly with the small nubs lined up correctly with the piston. Brake bleed worked well the pedal is firm...but the pedal travel is too much the brakes dont engage right away. The e-brake is also not not working now, when I remove the cover on the console the left e brake cable is much more loose than the right side. It seems like the new left front caliper is not "self adjusting" correctly. Is there any adjustment for the e brake cables besides the nut near the handle where the left and right cables meet? The e brake cable lever on the caliper is pulled back much farther on the night side of the car. Both e brake cables appear to be working smoothly. I think the e-brake engagment issue and the pedal slack are related. Any thoughts?

I have a 91 Loyale 4WD 5sp with a clutch that is getting a little slippery. When I replace the clutch, can I bolt in an EA82 4WD Dual Range 5 sp transmission from a GL wagon with no modifications? I realize that I will have to cut a hole in the floor to make room for the second "stick". Looking at parts catalogs it looks like EA82 loyale's and GLs have the same clutch, CV joints, and starter. Thanks for the help.

My EA82 had a similar problem this winter and it was the coolant temp sensor. Does the car feel like its running rich when its cold? If it is, the coolant temp sensor is likely bad and the computer is delivering too much fuel for the cold engine temp. Its easy to test, look in your manual and see what the correct operating resistance is supposed to be for the sensor. Go to radioshack and buy an approporaite resistor and plug it in instead of the sensor. Get a resistor in the middle range of operating temp for the test. My car went from being undrivable while cold, to purring smooth with the resistor. A few weeks later I got a new sensor from rock auto for ~50 bucks. The resistor worked fine though for a little while.