brat86

Need wiper wiring diagrams for Loyale and XT. All the wiring in my Brat from the right side kick panel forward is from a Loyale. It is spliced to the original Brat switches so the look remains the same, but I have the Loyale instrument cluster. All works except the wipers. Only have one speed any time the ign is on. Must pull fuse to turn of. I have the Brat diags. I also have a variable speed control from an XT. Want to figure out how to wire it to the Loyale connector. Tried wiring the switch to new harness with the jumper for no int contol, but still would not turn of. Disassembled wiper motor, found no defects there. I'm assuming that a wiper control(relay) is needed.

They can be checked out of the car. First check for side to side wobble in shaft. The pick-up coil can be checked with an ohm meter across the 2 wires on the disty. I don't have exact number, but should be fairly low. Less than 1Kohm. Definatly not zero or open. Also wiggle the wires when checking and look for changes on the meter. A common failure is where the wires enter the body of the coil. Vibration strain there. I have fixed shorted wires here with a bit of trimming on the plastic and a bit of rtv. There are aftermarket ignitions of various types that will work. There may be another coil that can made to work(chevy hei or something). The guys at Ram Aircraft Performance use double stacked coils for redundancy required by the FAA, maybe contact them and see if you can get a supplier for the coil.

Got around to putting the pics up. Finished 13 months ago. Some may remember this is the engine that I paid my 10 year old daughter $25 to assemble. I got an hour meter on the dash running on an oil pressure switch. Got about 185 hours thus far. 3 oil changes with a half a quart consumtion on the first and less than a quarter on the other 2.

I have an ea-81 disty that I rebuilt, used for 3 months, then blew a freeze plug in cyl head. Brat has ea-82 now. Tossed engine, kept distrib and few other parts. Let me know if you want it.

I found it...got pics, measurements. Local sube dealer was most helpful. May build a pair myself, good excuse to add an oxy-acet setup to the collection. Here it is. I have better pics if you send an email address. Note the stand in the picture has the EJ adapter plate attached.

I need it for 2 reasons. One is to access the rear to remark my ea-81 flywheel. The other is to carry it through my house. It's mounted on a standard engine stand now and the heads won't fit through the door without turning it sideways. Besides, if you've seen the pics from my other posts you'll see that I would hate to scratch the engine. A picture of the stand I need is on page 3, sec 1-6 of the 1989 FSM.

It's the 2 piece engine stand in the FSM. Tried SOA, they may be able to get it but not sure. It's listed at $125 each piece anyway. So, back to the original plan, build it. Actually have it built, I know a cheap welder that works for a major boat builder in Sarasota. He said he would do it for free, but I feel it's worth at least a gallon of rum. Anyway, what I need is measurements. To have it built I have to provide a 3-view drawing. If anyone has one or has copied one let me know. Or if there is another source of that type stand. I tried Fisher Buggy in Tampa, but they use a one piece bench mounted stand. I've seen a floor stand like sube's at a bug shop years ago, but the guy at Fishers no comprende...

Measure the fuel flow (gph and psi). There's another filter in the tank on the pickup tube. Little plastic job like the glass screw together filter elements. Usually drops off at high rpm's and load though. Had to rebuild mine 3 times in two years from that and fuel line gunk in a two year period. How's the float hinges? The little loops and pin? Could be a side load sticking the float. The bowl vent goes to the evap canister which also gets engine vac. A bad canister could cause negative bowl pressure.

Here's what's going in the Brat. It's the one I paid my 9 yr old daughter $15 to assemble.

Just like a dirt bike, get it titled for "off road" use only. The DOT can't say what goes there...

I too have the schematics for msd. Too much work though. I no longer have the setup to etch pc boards and haven't done it in over 10 years. If the ECG98 will work, it will offer a plug in replacement that functions exactly like the original. Only it will cost around $6-8 instead of the cost of the coil and igniter from SOA.

I tried to cross reference the Hitachi HF8311 transistor amp on the side of the coil. Nothing, doesn't cross to NTE, ECG, ST or even Hitachi semiconductors. I found a batch of surplus HF8311's in Russia, but I only need one, they want to sell 10000. Anyway, if anyone knows of a direct cross let me know. I could go to the u-pull-it and get it, but that wouldn't be any fun. What I've done is reverse engineer the wiring and an ECG98 look's like it will work. One problem though. The 8311 appears not to be a standard TO-3 darlington. The case is grounded, which would mean this is the emitter and not the collector as in a normal TO-3. Solution is to remote mount the ECG98 on a heat sink with a socket. Just wanted to verify what I've come up with if anyone has any more info.

Looks like the Chiltons 8259 or 8305 might have the diagrams, but I hate to spend 25 bucks for a half dozen useful pages. I really only need the color codes for the light switch, turn signals and the connectors behind the right hand kick pannel.

Been there, only engine harness. I need all else.

Help. I've got the engine wiring, what I need is the wiring diagram for the harness that runs behind the dash. I'm trying to splice this into my Brat at the right hand kick panel to make the rear lights work with the EA-82 harness. Also have to spice the headlight and wiper switches. I have the Brat wiring. Any ea 82 car diag should work. Pulled the harness from a 89 Gl 5sp 4wd DR Wagon though.