Brettm57

Neither the electric release or the door handle will open the rear hatch/door of my '96 Legacy wagon. Is there a way to release the latch? It feels like it came unhooked inside. I'm guessing I'll have to take the whole inside hatch panel off to open it. But I'm hoping one of you know a trick that will release the latch without doing that. Thanks for your help.

I AM SO STUPID!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! STUPID, STUPID, STUPID!!!!!!!!!!!!! It was the filter under the hood that was plugged this whole time! I would swear that I blew through the filter in the right direction to check it the first time. Apparently not! Anyhow, the good news is it runs fine now. Lesson learned: Check the simple things first. THOROUGHLY! Thanks for all of your advice.

I wonder if this revolution sensor could be kicking out again after a certain rpm for some reason? Is it a replaceable item in the distributor? Like I said in my fuel pump post, I'm trying to avoid putting a lot of money into this car. It's on it's last legs, the body is really bad, but I'd like to make it last for one more school year for my son. Thanks again for your help.

Adam, did you wire up a stock pump this way? Also, I took another fuel pump from my parts car and it does the same thing, pump one stroke and stop. I'm not doubting your word, I'm just trying to avoid buying a new one. It seems to me that the pump should run constantly if wired directly to a battery, too. Thanks for your help.

This ties in with another question on the BB. After removing the fuel pump from my '87 GL, I tried wiring it direct to the battery. It pumps one stroke, then stops. But if I break the circuit, it pumps one more stroke again and stops. There must be something in the wiring that cycles the pump, some sort of a make and break thing. What is the "thing" I'm looking for, and could it effect the fuel delivery of my pump? Thanks.

I was studying my service manual and the wiring diagram shows a "revolution sensor" on the GL series. It says it's wired into the fuel pump. Where is it located and what does it do? If it goes bad can it effect how much fuel gets pumped? My '87 GL acts like it's running out of fuel at the higher rpms. Before I replace the fuel pump, I'd like to know if this revolution sensor could be causing my problem. Thanks.

My '87 hatch has a stumble in the engine that doesn't show up intil it's in third gear. I'm inclined to believe it's a fuel problem because it gets worse with more load on the engine. But so far I haven't found anything. I've replaced both filters and rebuilt the carb and it made no difference. I've checked for vacuum leaks and haven't turned up anything. I tried starting the engine with the fuel lines unhooked. It seems to put out enough fuel, but there doesn't seem to be much pressure. I take it these cars have an electric fuel pump? Maybe this is my problem? If it's not this, I'm going to dive into the ignition next. Have any of you fine Subey gearheads ran into a problem like this? Is there anything else I should be checking? Thanks for your help.

I've got an '87 GL hatch that I think needs the carb rebuilt. After looking the job over, is it really necessary that ALL of those hoses be connected? I'm thinking I ought to be able to remove most of that stuff and it will still run. I know I should convert to a Weber, but money's tight and I've got to make the stock Hitachi work for a while. Also, are there any Subie owners in NYS that can tell me if my car will still pass inspection if I remove any of that stuff? They tightened the regs, but I'm not sure how they apply to older cars. Thanks for your input.

OK, forgive my ignorance here, but I take it the 2.2 Impreza engine isn't the same as a 2.2 Legacy engine? If that's so, then I need to find a 2.2 from a Legacy (The goal is to go FAST, after all!), and install the 1.8 intake and fuel injection assembly on the 2.2 and then the wiring harness will all hook up? Have I got it about right? I've never laid a hand on an Impreza, so I'm totally in the dark here. Also, if I do this, my plan is to go with an auto tranny to make a better bracket drag racer. Are there any issues I need to know about there? Thanks again for the info.

This ties in with another question I posted. Can a 2.2 engine from either an Impreza or Legacy be swapped out with the 1.8 engine in an Impreza? I can find a lot more 1.8 Imprezas in my price range (cheap!) than I can 2.2 versions. Thanks.

Thanks for the info. Can any of you tell me if the 1.8 and 2.2 engines will interchange? Thanks again.

I've searched the net for a specs page that would tell me but I've turned up nothing. I don't know much about Imprezas, but I'm thinking that if I could find a used one with the 2.2 engine in it, it might make kind of a fun toy for either playing with at the drag strip bracket racing or I just read about a place not too far from me doing rallycross. Either one would be fun. Thanks for your help.

The volt meter on my '87 GL stays pegged all the time, so I'm guessing that the voltage regulator is bad. Can anyone tell me if this car has an internal or external votlage regulator? If it's external, where is it located?

Is there any way I can test the O2 sensor without actually replacing it first? Possibly testing the resistance across it? Thanks for the responses.

I'm working on a '98 Outback that my scanner says "0420 Catalytic Converter Innefficiency Bank 1". What does "Bank1" mean? It looks like this car has two converters that are in line, but not on the individual banks. Is "Bank 1" telling me which converter it is? I've never worked on Subey this new so I'm a little confused. Thanks for your help.

"If you are really crazy, you could make one," General, how'd you know?! I like the sounds of the EA82 carb/manifold swap. Is there a significant performance gain by doing that? Carbed EA82s are fairly easy to find around here. I've got an idea that finding a used DGV around here will be like looking for a needle in a haystack. This is primarily Fomoco/Mopar/Chebby country. Don't think much of them furriners! And, what is the linkage mod you're talking about? Thanks for the info.

So will the Ford version bolt right up to the Sube EA81 engine? By that I mean is the throttle linkage in the right place and will the stock Subey throttle cable hook up to it? Do I need an adapter plate? And if I do is that something I could fab up myself? And last, can the Ford Holley/Weber be rejetted? I've got access to a vertical mill and most any material I need to build an adapter plate. I'm thinking that the Ford version will probably be the easiest to find in my area. There are a lot of guys racing mini stocks around here with the 2.3 Ford engine, and they have to use a carburetor. I'm guessing this will still give me an increase in performance over the Hitachi. Remember, this a REAL low budget project. We're not going for maximum performance, just better performance within our limits. Thanks. PS: I just remembered, isn't the Ford Holley/Weber the same carb they adapt to the air-cooled VWs?

I've got an '88 GL hatch that my son and I have been working on. Besides the basic mechanical stuff (brakes, etc.), I've rebuilt the distributor and advanced the timing a few degrees, hooked the primary and secondary butterflys on the carb together, and had a 2" exhaust system with a glass pack muffler made. My next move is to install a Weber carb. Seeing how this is an extremely low budget project, I'd like to know what are the best cars to look for in the junkyard for a Weber that is easy to adapt to the EA81. From what I've read, I need to get a fuel pressure regulator from the same junk car. Is this true? The price of a new Weber is out of the question, this car isn't in that good of shape to spend that kind of money on. Thanks for your help.

Now I have to ask the really dumb question, where is the blower motor located on a Legacy? Then maybe I can track down those pesky resistors!

My '95 Legacy heater/ac fan only runs on high the high speed. I read on here somewhere that there is a resistor (or something) that could be bad, possibly mounted behind the glove box. Can anyone clear this up for me and tell me what exactly I need to replace and where it's located? Thanks.

I'm fixing the brakes on my '88 hatch right now and I'm thinking that as long as I have the hubs apart I might as well drill the holes in the hubs for a six lug conversion. I don't have rims yet, but plan to some day. If I drill them now though that will save me tearing the hubs apart again later. What I need to know is what size drill bit to use. I'm guessing it's metric, which I don't have, but I'll go buy the size I need. For what it's worth, I have access to a vertical mill, which is how I intend to drill them. Thanks.

Disorder, I heeded your advice, sort of. I did it on my garage floor. You're right, the diff was a piece of cake. Actually, the tank wasn't that bad. Rather than fight with the hoses, I cut them off and will probably use some copper tubing to join the hoses back together again. I remember on one of my old Cornbinder projects that's the way the guy ahead of me did the tank hoses and made the job a whole lot easier. I figure if it worked on that, it will work on this. Anyhow, thanks for the advice, it made my job easier.

The gas tank is leaking on my '88 hatch and I need to take it out. My question is, is there enough room over the top of the rear differential to get the tank out? It almost looks to me like I'm going to have to drop the rear axle or else the tank won't clear the differential. I hope I'm wrong. Thanks.

....My car does have the factory security system. So it could be that your on to something and it does have something to do with that.

No. What I'm talking about is whenever I start the car the doors automatically lock. When I go out to start the car to let it warm up in the winter, if I don't remember to unlock the doors again after I start the car, the doors are locked when I get out with the keys in the car and running. What a pain that is! For what it's worth, the car didn't do that when I first bought it. So I don't know if there is something wrong now or if there was something wrong before. Either way, I'm tired of being locked out of my own car.