1slow_si

No, It's not driveable but it may run since I replaced the fuel pump. I removed the ignition relay with the intention of replacing it and have since lost it so it will need to be towed.

I am giving up on this project and want it gone. 91 Loyale push button 4wd 5 speed. 190k? Clean condition intermittent starting problem. I have replaced the tires, disty, plugs, coil, fuel pump and battery (die hard gold) any offers over $300 takes it. The tires alone are worth that. I don't have any pics. I -m located in Crofton Md. Anyone interested can call me @ 240-417-7168. I work @ night so if I don't answer, just leave a message. NO BULL************TERS! NO CREDIT! CASH ONLY! BRING YOUR OWN TRAILER AND HELP TO LOAD IT UP! Billy

I don't know what I was thinking. It's been a long time since I worked on the car. It has been sitting in the garage neglected for over a year. Now that you mention it, The ignition system is working fine and I did replace the ign. relay. I hooked a test light to the coil and to the battery and can see it pulse. The problem was once it started it would cut off. It seems like the fuel pump doesn't continue to work after it starts. Would low pressure cause these symptoms? I want to get this thing out of my garage and maybe save some gas money instead of driving my tundra. BTW, no codes.

Yeah, The fuel filter is brand new. My main questions are, Do you think it sounds like the fuel pump? and Will low fuel pressure cause the ignition system to cut out? How many miles on avg. will an ea82 run before it needs a rebuild? I hate to throw money at a car that won't last after it's fixed.

I purchased this car from a co-worker for $300 and it would run sometimes and sometimes wouldn't start. I checked the ignition system and it too was working sometimes and sometimes not. I replaced the ECU, the worn distributor, the coil, the little blue box in the kick panel, and checked the fuel pump relay and it was good. Same thing! Sometimes would run and sometimes wouldn't. The last few time that it ran, the fuel pump was making some funny noises while priming and now it quit working all together. Could this problem have been the fuel pump all along? If the fuel pressure is too low, will it cut the ignition system? I drove it once when it decided to run properly and got about a mile from my house and then lost its power and wouldn't idle. I had to keep playing with the throttle to keep it running to limp it home. On the way home I had to go up a big hill and it started pinging and had no power. It felt like it would stall if I tried to give it more gas. Does this sound like the fuel pump to you? I hate to spend $200 to $300 for a new fuel pump on a $300 dollar car with 189k on the clock. Do you think it's worth it? The car itself is pretty clean with no rust, except for a small patch of surface rust on the drivers door where it looks like it had a scratch that was never taken care of. Also, the rear bumper cover is warped due to the previous owner driving it after the exhaust tip broke off and the hot exhaust gas dumped straight into the bumper. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Billy

I haven't checked the TPS yet, I tried to start it today and the fuel pump didn't even come on. I ran wires from fuel pump to battery and she fired right up and died. Tried a second time and got the same thing, Third time and she acts like she's flooded.....(no start) When I plug in the green connectors it doesn't do anything. I can hear a solenoid clicking under the hood about once every second and a half? No fuel pump noise and no light. I have already checked the MAF with a meter and got correct values on everything. I'm stumped. It acted like this before, and when I changed out the ECU the fuel pump would prime itself when I turn the key on. Now it's not. The only thing I've done is tried to jump start it with a battery charger set on 55 amps. Could this fry the ECU? The old ECU seemed to work right, until I tried to jump it with a booster pack. Thanks B.

Been there, done that......Anything else?

I'm still trying to start this pos and it wont run right. It will start right up now that I replaced the ecu but immediately shuts off like it's running out of fuel. I tried plugging in the green connectors with the key on and get nothing, but when I turn the key to the on position I can hear it prime itself but doesn't pulsate. If I play with the throttle, I can keep it running and once it warms up it will continue running but at an extremely high rpm. Any more ideas? B.

I finally got my 91 loyale to start after replacing the computer but now it wont idle. As soon as I start it it idles for maybe 2 seconds and dies. If I try to give it gas, it dies. Sometimes I can manipulate the throttle and keep it running until it warms up and then it will idle, but very high. Previously I was told to check the MAF and when I checked it per FSM it tests fine. What could it be? Billy

I think you guys might have something with the MAF Sensor. I forgot that I wanted to clean it and couldn't find any MAF cleaner, so I used windex. I figure it should be ok since it's mostly alcohol and not a harsh solvent:confused: . Anyhow, The ecu is just giving me 5 short flashes (I assume this is normal) and the fuel pump gets 12v when I turn the key on (Not sure when running) but I don't hear it cycling with either or both connectors plugged in, I just get the solenoids clicking under the hood. Is this normal? BTW, Thanks to everyone for the help and whoever posted the link to the "FULL" FSM PDF. I found a flowchart that walked me through the steps of diagnosing a no start (weak/sometimes no ignition pulse) problem that led me to replacing the ecu and now it kinda runs and my $300. beater is almost ready for the road. Billy

I checked all of the vacuum lines and found nothing? I didn't see one hooked to the air box? Unless you are talking about the pcv system? It will start everytime but just shuts of like it's running out of fuel. I connected the white connectors and hear a clicking but the fuel pump doesn't cycle, So I ran 2 wires from the battery to the pump and same thing? I put a test light on the neg side of the coil and to ground and can see the pulses when the coil fires. So I have spark and fuel, What can it be?

I just changed the computer in my 91 loyale and it started right up:banana: but it wont stay running. When it starts the rpm's shoot up to about 2k and then dies. Is this a common problem? Ideas? Thanks

I don't understand? The link is of a planetaking off:confused:

That's funny! I live in Maryland and was just in Irving and saw one just like that near the old Boeing? plant at a garage. I was going to offer to buy it but had no way to get it home.

Biodiesel is french fry grease, not lard, but vegie oil. In a nutshell, you take used vegie oil and filter it, add lye to neutralize the acidity, add alchol (methanol?) so it doesn't gel. And that's it. It runs cleaner than dino diesel and costs about 17cents per gallon without counting labor. Check out http://www.freedomfuelamerica.com

I allready replaced the transistor under the coil, and the coil. It's either the ecu or photo diode/led. Which is more likely? Does anyone know how to check either? I'm losing patience with this car. I bought shifter bushings, I replaced the tires, coil, ignitor, it needs drivers door weatherstrip, wheel bearings, battery hold down, (The original was replaced with one that was too big and broke the plastic undertray and allowed acid to leak on the metal tray underneath and rust it out). It needs new v belts and probably new brakes and or rotors. I thought I was getting a deal for $300 but I think I got screwed. After sinking so much money in it, I hate to give up. But it's looking like a posibility.

Or you could stuff a ported rotary in it.

Thanks for the tips. I cleaned the ignitor bracket with a scotchbrite pad and ran a ground from the battery to the bracket and no luck. I was thinking it could be the cas, or the ecu. I already replaced the coil and ignitor. FYI, I was able to replace the ignitor with one from a GM Hei Ignition. I know some people on here said it wouldn't work but it does and will run sometimes just like the original. The stealership wanted almost $300 for a coil, bracket and ignitor as a kit, but I was able to buy a coil and GM ignition module, for roughly $40. The igniton module requires slight modification to the wiring (adding one wire to the coil) and bracket (Bending bracket flat and drilling one hole to mount ignitor). but should work great once I fix the rest of the gremlins. If anyone is interested I can make a write up but im sure there will be some doubters until I get it running correctly. I figured the GM ignitor is $20 and is new. So I wont have to worry about buying a half dead one from the boneyard. If anybody is good with a soldering iron and has alot of patience, You can find the original transistor online for $15 + shipping. It's a bipolar transistor Pt# 1205. More trouble than what it's worth if you ask me. Anyhow, Merry Christmas and thanks for the help. Bill

Ahh, That's nothing.....

Well, I replaced the ignitor on my 91 Loyale and it's still doing the same thing. With a test light hooked to neg. side of coil and to ground, while cranking the light stays dim and sometimes flashes bright and will start and run briefly. What do you think I should replace next? Is the L.E.D. and photo diode in the distributor known to go bad? Can you replace them or do you have to buy a new disty? Thanks, Bill

I normally lay underneath with my back to the tire and one good kick with the back of my heel will knock it loose. I do it with the car on a floor jack but you may want to secure it on jackstands.

Thanks for the replies...I will try making a ground for the bracket and see if it helps. If not, I was looking around for a new ignitor and nobody sells them except for the stealership. They sell the coil, bracket with ignitor attached as a package and want $360 for it! I was going to get one from the junkyard and thought that if I did, it would be old and may not last. So, I was thinking about trying to use an ignition module from an early GM car. I have seen it done on many rotaries, probes and mx6's. Has anyone tried this? I'm not sure if the signal from the ecu will drive it. On the rotary it gets the signal directly from the magnet in the disty. Any thoughts? These are wiring diagrams I found for mazda's From what I've read, it should work. BTW The resistor is for the tach signal.

Update......I finally had a chance tonight to check it out again. I hooked up a test light to the neg. side of coil and cranked. At first I got a slight flicker, then a solid light, then a pulsating light and it started. I shut it off and tried again and had a solid light again. No start. What is causing the weak signal to the coil? Bad Disty, Ign. Amplifier, ECU? :confused:

Update.... I finally got around to checking other things out today and I realized I am getting spark at the coil intermittantly. Before I was checking at a plug. Anyhow, It wasn't sparking like it should, only once in a while? Anybody know what causes this? BTW I am reading 10.6 M ohms on the resistor thing so I guess it's good. Can someone elaborate on checking the distributor? Thanks Also the ignition control module, it the only thing in your distributor, Once again I don't know the proper way of testing it, my book doesn't say, but I just keep a couple of good ones around just in case. And how I test them is have a spare distributor and mount the new ignition control module in it plug it in and turn it by hand, it's just the easy way to check for me.

Forgot to mention, I already checked all of the fuses under the dash and all the fusible links under the hood. I'm going to work soon, but keep the suggestions coming. I'll check when I get home tonight. Oh, and I was turning the key to the run position when the fuel pump wasn't working. What would cause a ecu to die? Thanks