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fastwgn286

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Posts posted by fastwgn286

  1. biggest problem is that the all the halfshafts and drivelines are designed to accommodate a small portion of the engine power. converting to rwd you would probably want new axles that can handle the power of the engine. modify the engine any and you would need these. besides, why? rwd trucks are pointless.

     

    and i remember reading that scc article. and iirc, they needed to do the above (it was in one of those box thingys). one of the japanese drift squads runs rwd wrxes, but they use skyline rear diffs and beefier axles too.

  2. GM's minivans are available with AWD (Chevy Venture, Saturn Relay, Pontiac Montana SV6). We have an '03 Montana (2WD version), it's roomy and comfortable, and so far perfectly reliable at 50K miles. The wife loves it, I hope she falls out of love with it before 100K miles so I don't have to change the spark plugs (looks like a nigthmare job).

     

    yeah, it is! $700 at the dealer, because they drop the engine. (my mom has one)

     

    mazda cx-7 is available with awd. the cx-9 is the 7 passenger one, though (also available with awd). i haven't been back to my former employer to drive one yet...

     

    mazda mpv is dead. it was nifty though, roomy and comfy. 1st gens had awd. but the ones with sliding doors never had it.

     

    mazda 5 really doesn't have that much space, and getting to the back row will take off your kid's head. although a frat did use one as a party shuttle before. that was hiliarious...

  3. hondas resale higher than subarus?:confused::eek::confused: since when? (seriously, kelley blue book has a lgt limited beating an accord ex v6 with same options)

     

    ok, back to your concerns. the turbo will add some value to the car and will help make it resell a little easier, but it won't offset the cost differential in the long run. and if you are just gonna drive it like a normal car, you're better off with the na model. no premium needed (the turbo requires premium, no bypassing that), no worries about sacrified reliability, maintainence is similair to the one already in your driveway...it's the wiser of the two

  4. thats what i thought when it happened the first time. balanced front tires, and still rough vibrations:mad:. before this point, i rotated the tires so the offending one was in the back. turns out, once i took off the wheels one night trying in desparation to find out why the vibrations were occuring and started to roll them along the pavement, one started to hop. the tread was peeling off the belts in one spot (looked kinda like a blister or a hernia). in fact, i still have one on the car, waiting for sears to get a replacement in...

  5. I bet you a package of cookies that its a tire. this has happened twice on mine (michelin weatherwise). Its a front tire. here's what you do....

     

    1. jack up car

    2. remove a front tire (i start with driver's side)

    3. replace with spare tire

    4. unjack car and drive around the block. let go of steering wheel to see if it pulls in any direction.

     

    repeat for the other tire if the shimmy and pulling to one side is still present. unfortunately, you will need to dish out for another tire unless you still have receipts

  6. i'd keep it 4wd, as those tracks can be a bear to find traction on (va state fair is horrible, hopefully y'all use clay and not sand)

     

    and hopefully they class you to face the other four bangers (aka the "bumble bee" class) and you should own them (you're hosed if you face anyone with a crown vic or a 70s caddy)

  7. wagons are great for that stuff. when my dad and i remodeled a house, everything from wall studs to sheets of plywood and drywall where tied to the roof and jammed inside and away we went. great moving vans too (fit a recliner and coffee table in the outback, couch strapped to roof, 100 miles later in the apartment)....

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