fastwgn286

oh my, its beautiful! DCCD going in as well?

if you ever cross the border next season, i'll take ya on in a celebrity wagon:brow:

yeah, its a sign.... although if its really cold out and the engine isnt warm, a little judder is normal. once warm it should go away, or else you've got an appointment to make....

jack up and try it out. if you cant get them on, they dont fit...... if you can, jack all wheels off ground, car in neutral, and spin to see if they rub. wheels are as diverse as tires, so some 16"s may, some may not.

ford makes 4wd trucks. you just gotta order the right packages and what not. and no, your axles won't hold all of that load. they will break eventually. if its a turbo baja, they will snap sooner.

yeah, c&d's long term lgt (05) had an early clutch change (<30k) perhaps this is a problem? my clutch is almost gone at around 130k fwiw...

biggest problem is that the all the halfshafts and drivelines are designed to accommodate a small portion of the engine power. converting to rwd you would probably want new axles that can handle the power of the engine. modify the engine any and you would need these. besides, why? rwd trucks are pointless. and i remember reading that scc article. and iirc, they needed to do the above (it was in one of those box thingys). one of the japanese drift squads runs rwd wrxes, but they use skyline rear diffs and beefier axles too.

yeah, it is! $700 at the dealer, because they drop the engine. (my mom has one) mazda cx-7 is available with awd. the cx-9 is the 7 passenger one, though (also available with awd). i haven't been back to my former employer to drive one yet... mazda mpv is dead. it was nifty though, roomy and comfy. 1st gens had awd. but the ones with sliding doors never had it. mazda 5 really doesn't have that much space, and getting to the back row will take off your kid's head. although a frat did use one as a party shuttle before. that was hiliarious...

umm...did you get the cruise control cable, throttle body, and actuator? those are sorta important. beyond that, i dunno anything about the electronics (i hate that stuff) edit: nevermind, other thread found

hondas resale higher than subarus? since when? (seriously, kelley blue book has a lgt limited beating an accord ex v6 with same options) ok, back to your concerns. the turbo will add some value to the car and will help make it resell a little easier, but it won't offset the cost differential in the long run. and if you are just gonna drive it like a normal car, you're better off with the na model. no premium needed (the turbo requires premium, no bypassing that), no worries about sacrified reliability, maintainence is similair to the one already in your driveway...it's the wiser of the two

eh, it's only a tire tech, not a subaru tech....

thats what i thought when it happened the first time. balanced front tires, and still rough vibrations:mad:. before this point, i rotated the tires so the offending one was in the back. turns out, once i took off the wheels one night trying in desparation to find out why the vibrations were occuring and started to roll them along the pavement, one started to hop. the tread was peeling off the belts in one spot (looked kinda like a blister or a hernia). in fact, i still have one on the car, waiting for sears to get a replacement in...

I bet you a package of cookies that its a tire. this has happened twice on mine (michelin weatherwise). Its a front tire. here's what you do.... 1. jack up car 2. remove a front tire (i start with driver's side) 3. replace with spare tire 4. unjack car and drive around the block. let go of steering wheel to see if it pulls in any direction. repeat for the other tire if the shimmy and pulling to one side is still present. unfortunately, you will need to dish out for another tire unless you still have receipts

there was a twin turbo jdm legacy (95-99, i think 2.0L, but not sure), but you shouldn't get it as one of those turbos is right where the steering column is. and then, whats the point? eg33 is a good way to go. no lag, and have you heard one of those all wound up? intoxicatingly beautiful

well, it isnt so much dependent on the engine as it is dependent on the body. an OBS (impreza) exhaust on a legacy wont work, as you would need to reroute some pieces and redo hangers and just isn't cost effective (heck, it might not even be long enough to exit out the back)

doubt there is much of an aftermarket in these shores. less than 15,000 migrated over here. a stock eg33 would do well without modifications in a bg6

well, the ej25 would be a wiser choice in two regards. a) the aftermarket for the ej25 is larger than the aftermarket of the ej22 (for the obdiis at least) and with your plans of engine swapping, you could theoretically buy one with hg problems for cheap and toss the engine ^ and its only 3155 lbs dry wt.

not to deter you in any way, but why the ej22 outback if you want power? by adding aftermarket stuff on it, you risk the reliablity of the famously reliable engine. if you buy the ej25 outback, you get 165 hp (still underpowered, imo) and is similar in price to a '96. + it has a hood scoop!

i'd keep it 4wd, as those tracks can be a bear to find traction on (va state fair is horrible, hopefully y'all use clay and not sand) and hopefully they class you to face the other four bangers (aka the "bumble bee" class) and you should own them (you're hosed if you face anyone with a crown vic or a 70s caddy)

judging by the grille and headlight eyelids, the owner debadged it to confuse you... what everyone else said...

you can go to a trusted dealer (if you can find one you trust) and order one from them. the used car managers go to mega auto auctions and use wholesalers to get cars on the lot, so if you really want one, they will get in the first one they see... you might not be able to get all of the spec you want, but they can get an xt for you

wagons are great for that stuff. when my dad and i remodeled a house, everything from wall studs to sheets of plywood and drywall where tied to the roof and jammed inside and away we went. great moving vans too (fit a recliner and coffee table in the outback, couch strapped to roof, 100 miles later in the apartment)....

and another turbocharger incase the first gets lonely...

doubt it. did a quick search and all i can find is 8x6.5. most old-gen subarus are 4x140 (5.5 inches) so the lugs won't line up. and you might need to find some special lugnuts, since the hole diameters vary (if you can find a 8x5.5 rim)

+1, that how everyone should do it. mfg states to recheck to torque at about 25 miles (or maybe that was michelin, can't remember), so do that and you shouldnt have any problems with the wheels falling off