Erik R
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Posts posted by Erik R
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There is a thread on here (I don't recall the title) that list all the things you should assume have not been done and require immediate maintenance.
These things aren't terribly difficult, but will cost you a few $$.
Well worth it for the peace of mind. Nobody likes a break-down or having to wrench on a car "unscheduled"
.I too just bought a car last week, '91 Loyale wagon, 5 spd EA 82 spfi W/290k.
Good paint,one owner, new tires and smogged for $1100.
Post pics soon.
Maybe you will share pix of your new ride?
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If you have the pulley and the attaching bolt (I guess the adjustment nut is gone? Or is the bearing separated?); all you will need is a new bearing.
It is a standard industrial bearing..6202 or 6203, I can't remember right now.
Less than $10 anyway.
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If you bought your belt from NAPA or Carquest, they sold you the wrong belt.
This has happened to me. The one they give you is too long to tension and the next one smaller is WAY to short.
Let me go out to my car and get the # off of my spare...........it's a Gates "Extra Service" belt............no stupid "teeth" on the top or bottom either.
OK, it's a #5735.............this is the "back belt", not the one on the alt.
Factory installed A/C...............
Hope this helps!
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Always have used heads pressure tested before using........................
Many have porosity leaks into the exhaust port. The crack between the valves doesn't mean much unless it's severe.
JMHO
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MilesFox, is this what you meant? I do plan on changing my oil pump; just not now.................Santa did a # on me
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View from the bottom, showing modded cover behind idler (no leg to block oil pump removal!).
No other covers in place.....................
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Why wait when you can fabricate?
http://www.directcon.net/gmc248/Subaru/IM001152.JPG
http://www.directcon.net/gmc248/Subaru/IM001154.JPG
http://www.directcon.net/gmc248/Subaru/IM001155.JPG
Material is 1/8" X 1-1/2" X 10-3/4" and two 1/4"x20 bolts 1-1/2" long; threaded halfway. Heads were cut-off and chamfered. All cutting and grinding was freehand. Holes were drilled 2-3/8" apart and tapped for 1/4" X 20 SAE and placed diagonally from one corner. Bolts were run all the way in; nuts and locks on the back. Tool works for both sides or either way. Great for setting T-belt tension as per Service manual or tightening cam bolts.
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If your compression is good, then maybe you need the hose kit for your PCV system. If you have large hoses on the pass. side and from the valve covers and one skinny hose from the intake "boot" to a "T" fitting and large hose down to the PCV, it will suck in oil everytime you make a sharp or high banking turn to the right.
I have pics, too big to post here. PM or email if you want to see them.
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I am going to use a small diameter, long-handled "bottle" brush that was designed for cleaning oil galleries in V8's. It is stiff enough, but not made of wire either.
Anything left over will have to stay in the threads.
If I ever find a tap, I will let everyone know.
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Going off the pic, I just trim away all the plastic to the left of the idler.
I see no "bottom" to it either?
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No 11mm X 1.25 taps.........................maybe better off, since aluminum is easy to "trash" with a sharp tap. I can't even find a used one ; which would be better. All I want to do is "chase" out the holes and clean the corrosion out of the threads for an accurate torque spec.
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Makes sense to me...........................My covers are all cracked anyway and over half of the bolts "spun" in the cover, making it a real pain to pull.
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Finally, after 4 mos., the engine is out on the bench. After a trip to the machine shop, it turns out the Left head had porosity directly into the exhaust port. Good thing I kept the original burned out engine from the car
. Left head was good, but the valves were warped. I had the valves ground on BOTH heads to match them up. I had heavy carbon deposits on the piston tops. Green Roloc took care of that. I don't know how long this engine will last, I'll just have to see. Oh, gasket set was ordered by the Machine shop and was $80..........Set is made by some Cheap name................"safety" I think?? I don't know, they needed the seals for the valve job.
What's up with the head bolts? Are they not 11mm X 1.25 ? I can't find a tap anywhere to chase the crud out of the holes.
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Miles, I can always live the the "wild life" vicariously through your threads.....................
You always get the job done with just a handful of tools.....................
I can't do anything without my roll-away AND my JY toolbox.
SO, I have my engine out and heads off now. You think I should say to heck with the covers and just leave them off when I reassemble??
TIA, I just love these old threads!
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Thanks for the tips guys
.I had the intake off last Dec. and I used 100% Dealer gaskets and o-rings .
I DO have coolant in cylinders #1,3 and #4. Just enough to make the cylinder walls "muddy".
I will pull the engine out for this job; my back kills me when I have to bend down to work on a car.........much easier on the bench and I have an engine hoist.
I will let you know what I find.
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My "confuser" has been down, so I couldn't get on here sooner...............
Last week, I was driving to work with the windows down and started smelling that sicky-sweet coolant smell. Temp guage showed normal, as did oil pressure. Pulled off at the gas station, checked fluids, looked for leaks. No leaks, but coolant bottle empty. Radiator full, so I fire it back up..............huge cloud of steam. Oh sh............t!! Luckily, my work was all downhill, so I coasted in to the yard with the heater on HI. THe temp. guage never went above 1/2 way......I pulled the dip stick..no h20. I removed rad. cap, no pressure and 1/2 gallon short of coolant.......Heater never stopped blowing hot though. Pulled spark plugs and peered into cylinders............coolant in 3.
I just dumped $800 into this motor last DEC. and have only driven 9500 miles since.
I need a cheap way out of this............................I will be taking your advice. You guys are the guru's...................
Do I pull the engine and just get new heads, or is it worth having them shaved and pressure tested.
Who makes a good head set? Fel-Pro OK for these cars?
I am working on ea82 with high miles.............
TIA
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There is no law here that says you can't install a CAT, even if not originally equipped with one.
It will lower your HC's............But it needs to be "burned-in" a few miles before testing to assure it's fully effective and "lit-off".
I installed one on my wife's car and drove it straight down to the test station (Only seven miles). Passed the first try, lowered my HC's down by over 100ppm............and it was not fully burned-in.
Not the cheapest alternative, but advice is worth what you pay for it.........
Vacuum leaks are the biggest killer of an otherwise passing engine..........
Oh, don't forget to check your gas cap. They will vacuum test your cap and if it leaks, you will fail the test.
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Here in CA, it's 30 calendar years back to the model year of the vehicle.....in this case, 1974.
This is why I have a '71 P/U.....
A fresh CAT never hurts......just make sure to "burn it in" a little before you take it in to test. Always pre-test, because if you fail, you will get a "gross polluter" status and you will have to go to a "test-only" station for ALL future tests.
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This is not good news...........I installed an 8140 back in Dec. and have it mounted in the stock position.
My old coil was not stock, it was a Bosch "blue" coil from a VW............3.4 ohms across the small terminals (I had a low-end miss). The Accell has 1.2 ohms.
I doubt it is any better than stock, but I don't have the stock one to compare it to.
A good idea was put forth earlier in the thread: If mine dies, I volunteer to "cut it open" and see what the heck is in there,, as well as electrical measurements (I have a Fluke 77BN).
Until then, maybe I should go to P-n-P and pick up a spare? :-\
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That's not a bad idea..............
Speaking of custom, check this out:
http://www.dodge.com/tomahawk/flash.html
Rumor has it that Jay Leno has ordered one of these beasts.............they will be delivered as "un-rideable" for insurance porposes.............(missing drive belt).
Can you imagine 500hp on a bike? They want $16 just for a wall poster of this thing, Geez................
A turbo Sube engine in a bike would be kewl
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Don't feel singled out........I had it happen to me also.........luckily though, not in my Sube!
Mice HATE the smell of Irish Spring bar.........I put one in all of the vehicles I have sitting.........just leave it in the box, with one end open..............
Put moth balls in a disposable pie tin on the floor.......they hate that too. I know, it smells bad, but will air out quickly after driving a few miles with the windows down.
Seal any holes (Check wiring grommets) over 1/2" in diameter..........or they will get in.
Get a box of D-con (the wedge shaped one). If they eat it, replace with more.
I keep one of those in my P/U also (it's in storage).
Good Luck
P.S. Febreze works OK, but wears off after awhile.......just keep putting more on.
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McBrat, your wife nailed it!!
Major Kudos out to you guys!I would be just as bad, but I live in an apartment, so no space for more than one car.............my storage has parts in it though.............
I will print this out, it's great.........it applies to some of my other hobbies as well..............
I still have tropical fish stuff and checvy stuff left over from several years ago..............
The Sube stuff will always be stored in the most prominent and convenient place in my storage; in fact, I hope it will eventually dominate my storage space.
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One last note about the YT site: You post what you want, the transporters contact you.
Also, the truck I had hauled was picked up by a tractor collector (not a "trucker", just an aficionado); who had a 26' gooseneck trailer (Sullivan, nice) w/beavertail, pulled by a 1 ton '04 Chev. Duramax crew-cab. He had room for passengers........
I drove the truck I sold on to the trailer for the buyer (he wasn't comfortable doing it) and supervised all aspects of the business transaction. Truck weighed in at 7500 lbs. empty and was 25' long...........the rear axle just fit.
It was hauled for a flat fee; some others may want a per mile rate, depending on the route. Flat rate is better, that way the cost doesn't change, even if the hauler has to make a detour.
It's really just people helping others get their stuff (in their case, very large and heavy stuff) to where they want it without a "deadhead" run........if you read it, you'll see guys with larger trailers haul more than one on the same trip........this works out well for everyone involved.
If you want something bad enough, you will find a way to make it happen
.If I didn't live 3000 miles away..............sorry I can't help out
.At least this post will "bring it back to the top".
Need a car shipped
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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Try posting your request here: http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/haulquery.plYeah, it's a tractor site; but sometimes these guys need a "backhaul" so they don't have to "deadhead" all the way home.
I sold a truck a few years ago and my buyer was able to get it hauled for about half the going rate...check it out
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