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thealleyboy

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About thealleyboy

  • Rank
    Subaru Derelict
  • Birthday 02/08/1964

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • Yahoo
    thealleyboy@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bexley, OH
  • Interests
    too many to list
  • Occupation
    I do have one
  • Referral
    Knew early USMB Board members in OH area
  • Biography
    Owned dozens of vehicles including classic US muscle and passenger cars, Datsun, Mazda and Mitsubishi. Long-term 67 Mustang resto project. Countless EA82 Subarus (GL, GL10, XT6, Loyale). Began wrenching on EJ-series cars in 2011.
  • Vehicles
    Imprez, Loyale, GL, XT6
  1. Hey WT, really appreciate the input... ​The 98 Forrester that I want to swap the phase 2 5 speed has been altered a bit. I did the gen 1 (97) 2.2 swap previously, so it's not stock anymore. However, it still has the phase 1 linage so I think I'm still good if I follow this thru logically. I guess what is unique about this project is that the whole drive train will be retrofitted when all is said and done. Maybe a bit extreme for a car pushing 20 years, but the car is exceptionally solid w/o the typical Midwest rust. A good test and learning experience for sure. Sounds like the electrical mods is the most challenging issue. Not really concerned about cruise and extra features like that. Rather, would like to sweat things down to a basic 2.2 5speed setup with some old school reliability. thanks, John
  2. Hey Matt: Thanks for the response. Doesn't sound nearly as bad as I would have thought. Do you remember which 5 speed you used in your 98 Forrester? Is there anything about using a newer (2002) 5 speed that I should look out for in doing this conversion? thanks, John
  3. ​Hey Guys: ​It's been awhile...3 years according to my official USMB member statistics which can never be wrong (lol!!). Needless to say, my post count has dropped considerably on this forum in the last decade and a half or so for various reasons .. ​So to bring you up to date,..Alleyboy totaled his 2002 Forrester this weekend...There was a one inch "snowstorm" in CBus on Sat, and the I happened to be in the wrong place at the wrong time with a bunch of stupid-*ss drivers that cant deal with light winter driving. Cars were at a dead stop at a highway entrance ramp while a pileup was ensuing ahead. I slammed into that mess, and got rear ended pretty hard as a bonus immediately afterward. Well you get the picture. This car was the #2 fave in my current fleet with a solid 2.5 and 5 speed which I will be salvaging for re-use. ​I would like to transfer that 5 speed into another car (98 Forrester A/T with 2.2 convesion). I did search on here for a similar swap with no hits, so I hope the moderators won't use that angle to flame or ban me this time around. Based on the lack of info available, I'm guessing that 5 speed conversions on the New Gens are not as popular as with the Old Gens for example, which I have done successfully. I understand that A/T trannies used in 98's were a one-off, so that may complicate things a bit. Also, maybe because the AT's are more proprietary for some reason (?) If anyone can share any firsthand experience with this, some good advice, or can point me to a relevant write-up, that would be greatly appreciated. thanks, John
  4. I'll check for timing marks before dissasembling the timing belt and components.. Not clear what the issue is with the timing marks with 2.5 vehicles, but maybe it won't be relevant in my situation. thanks...John
  5. Gary, does plug and play apply to the timing components as well? I'm shopping for a timing belt kit and there were some comments on various threads about swapping 2.5 sprockets onto the 2.2. Does the 99 2.2 maintain original 2.2 timing configuration, or does it have to be altered to work in a 2003 2.5 vehicle?
  6. Gary, I'll definitely investigate the piston slap theory. That actually makes more sense than any oil-related failure. I might just get lucky for once... Regardless of severity of the 2.5 noise, I do want to start building up the 99 2.2 right away. I'm tempted to leave the head gasket alone based on my own experiences with the 2.2 - and from what others are saying. Tuff call...but I'll probably end up replacing it By "ebay kits", I'm assuming you mean generic aftermarket sets that have filtered down to the open market. I'm not too picky on branding as long as the components are Japanese made. I know that low-quality Mexican and Chinese parts are starting to show up all over - even at places like CarQuest and NAPA. Not sure if I'm ready to take that leap of faith with an interference engine... I might have to re-think my preference for open belts...along with everything else New-Gen related, gotta wrap my head around the idea of a 105k maintenance interval....John
  7. Ok boys... after all the dust has settled looks like AB is going to be building up an 03 Legacy/Outback wagon. i have also secured a 99 2.2 that runs, so I think I got enuff to resources work with. The 03 Outback has apparently had an oil failure, which seems odd but it's the only thing that makes any sense. It is a classic engine knock, with all other variables working as they should. I have to assume that the heads are good. No signs of overheating. No timing belt disaster. Just a motor with 150k that is sounding sick. My thinking is to build up the known 99 2.2, and giving the existing 03 2.5 heads some attention. I have got some local resources that I trust with saving those heads if they aren't shot. If all goes as plannned, I should have a solid 99 SB, and a pair of reconditioned 03 heads to bolt onto that block. I guess my question is about putting it all together. Of course I will do all the normal maintenace items to freshen up the SB. I have not yet sourced head gaskets for the EJ series, but would like to use the best replacements available {whatever they may be}. Same with tensioners, pulleys, seals and pumps. I always run the timing belts naked, soi would prefer to use any sealed wear items that may be available. Appreciate any advice on the 99 2.2 to 03 2.5 conversion, and also recommendations on the head gaskets and other bolt on components.. thanks, John
  8. thealleyboy

    Rust Repair Questions

    There are two aspects to consider when you take on a rust repair project - safety and appearance. When it comes to daily driver type Subes, safety is by far the most important. My "acid test" is to inspect the area where the seat belt anchors to the floor. If the metal here is weak, your car is done. Reason being, a good hit will rip that seat belt out of the floor, and send whoever is strapped to it thru the winshield. Fortunately, alot of the rust you see on the Subes falls into the "appearance" category. This includes rockers and rear wheel arches on the unibody, as well as any bolt-ons {doors, fenders hoods, etc}. All easy stuff. Mills Supply in Cleveand sells replacement rocker and rear wheel arch panels that will rebuild most of the rear quarter panel area. The most difiicult area to repair is the rear corners {below the rear tail lights}. It is prone to rot, and difficult to fabricate patch panels from scratch. I would carefully evaluate the structural points, and this will require lifting interior carpeting and removing plastic trim. In many cases you cannot judge the condition visually from underneath the car. Do this before getting too far ahead of yourself with appearance rust. Good Luck, John
  9. Got it!! I'll do better than save it on my computer - I'll paste it on my garage wall. Thanks again for the detailed explanation...John
  10. Thanks for the info PR!! Do you happen to know which version of the 2.2 he used? I'm wondering if my 2.2 (97 5-speed) will have the same compatibility problems for the 2000 Outback as with the 1999 Forrester {discussed above}. I'm not opposed to getting a 99 2.2 if it is a better fit. As far as 2.5's, they are in big demand in my area (OH) and go for bookoo $$. 2.2's are much easier to find for bottom-feeder prices. I know of some stock 2.5's - and also older rebuilt ones that have help up well. Seems to be the gasket itself rather than a design flaw as commonly believed. In any case, it is a cost issue for me to go with a 2.2 SB instead of chasing down an overpriced 2.5. thanks, John
  11. Hey Guys: The 99 Forrester deal discussed above fell apart. A handshake doesn't mean much these days. Life in the big city I suppose... I'm now onto a 2000 Legacy A/t with a blown 2.5. From what I gather, it has not overheated, so the 2.5 heads could conceivably be salvageble. I'm looking at re-purposing my 97 2.2 (5 speed) as well as other 2.2 options. A straight swap would be ideal, but I'm feeling ambitious enough to try to build something off a 2.2 block, and reconditioing the exisisting 2.5 heads. Besides my 97 2.2, I know of I know of at least 2 intact 99 2.2's available in my area. Thats not considering other 2.2's from other years that could serve as a platform for the 2.5 heads. I know my 97 2.2 is rock solid, and wouldn't mind holding it back for a more appropriate project. I'm open to any of these options right now, and would appreciate your feedback. Again, I'm new to the new gens, and don't know about all the ins and outs of the 2000 Legacy Outbacks. ... thanksJohn
  12. Gary, Forrester deal went south, so they are all up for grabs. Actually got a line on another good one in OH. PM if you want to go after it...I'll run out there with you if you want...John
  13. You can actually remove the radiator and fans without touching the consensor, and just reposition the compressor as described above. That should give you all the room you'll need. As far as changing refridgerants, it is ok to do the conversion, if you evacuate the R12, and do some prep work before charging with R134. O rings are definitely fair game. When they first switched, there was a lot of doubts as to whether the conversions would be successful long-term, but time and experience has proven otherwise. I can tell you that there were some R12 "substitutes" produced right after R12 was banned, and if you can find some at a reasonable cost that may be an option. John
  14. thealleyboy

    Advice on My Problem

    I have had a couple of EA82's burn up on me, but it's not the norm. Everything mentioned above is the troof. EA 82's are non-interference, strong bottom end... Head gaskets are a weak point, and it you run any motor dry on oil, well you know what happens... I'll give the mechanic the benefit of a doubt cause he actually diagnosed it. A car that old that that has sat for a long time could conceivably has some condensation, and if you ran it on old oil for a long period of time then it could have had a catastrophic failure. But the belt and the oil abuse are two seperate issues, and if the belt went first, I would say the two problems were unrelated. I would do the timing belt and see what happens. Do it yourself. At this point you have nothing to lose except your time and effort, and about $30 for belts. Fox has a great write-up on the timing belt procedure floating around somewhere on this site. Well worth the effort for the educational value alone. If I was a betting man, I'd say that you will be able to revive this car at the very least, and maybe have a runner if you follow thru on getting the maintenance caught up. The EA82's were a transitional series, with lots of problems but you still have to screw up pretty bad to trash one out completely. Do the belts, and check compression, and you'll know where things stand. good Luck, John
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