DualCarb'84
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Posts posted by DualCarb'84
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i know exactly what you are talking about. If you look directly into the hole in your rad where you fill it, you will see a bent out tab, this is where the coolant in both of my rigs (ea81) likes to be. It is about 2 inches from the top. I can fill it up all the way, and as soon as it gets warm, it spits out everything north of the tab, then is happy (until i forget to switch my fan on in traffic)
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it would be fun to ride up there, but i guess the bus needs a motor, and tranny. I bet you will soon see it parked by the side of the road, with some hippie selling beads and hemp necklaces out of it.
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i have the entire factory cruise control stuff for an 82 gl, ea81. you can come get it if u want, it all works, but it wont with the dual carb setup i have. I am in bellevue.
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I have a buddy with an svx, and he has about 80,000 miles on it. He has had his wheel bearings done twice, and had a new tranny put in. I guess these cars are known for such issues. I remember him complaining about the cost of parts(brake pads cost him a hundred bucks or something) but overall, he is happy with the car. Never any trouble from the motor or electronics. I dont think there are too many of em out there, spare parts might be an issue. I love subaru cars, but i dont think i would ever buy one of these, just my opinion.
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i dunno if this helps, but the rear coilover mounts on my 84 wagon are nothing but 4 inch sections of beefy angle iron bolted directly through the wheelwell. It sounds goofy, but i have pounded the snot out of it, and it seems to work well. The angle iron sits with one flat side down, and the other side bolted to the body, with grade 8 bolts, and reinforced with plate on the backside (inside the car) I drilled a hole in the bottom flat side to accept the coilover assy. I have the disc brake conversion, with no torsion bar, and have had no probs with this setup.
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I have done a similar process with my ea81 when switching from standard to synthetic oils. Amsoil makes a product called "Engine Flush", and seemed to be a solvent based liquid that is added to existing conventional oil. You dump in a quart, run your engine for fifteen minutes, then drain. After removing my drain plug, i had to poke the log jam of sludge that came through my drain hole twice to get my used oil to flow out. I was absolutely amazed at the amount of stuff that was inside my motor. I have about 25k on it since the treatment, and plan to do it every 35k or so. Highly recommended!
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Great thread. I have had a bunch of old subarus, and several new vehicles as well. I think the difference for me is the simplicity, and reliability of the older ones. I actually look forward to something breaking on my subies, so i can make an event out of fixing them. Parts are so cheap, and available, that it makes no sense for me to commute, or wheel anything else. Hell, i bought two awesome soobies for less than the cost of the tires on my truck. I actually look forward to my 34 mile commute every day, and often laugh and smile at the knocks, squeak and rattles that my rigs make, its like having a conversation with a passenger, it keeps me entertained. When i drive my newer rigs, all i can think about is their declining deprecietion with every mile marker that passes, and their less than desired fuel economy. I know that the new stuff is built fairly well, but it is unlikely that i will be to open the hatch, pull out my parts box, and swap an axle, or change a gasket on the side of the road without too much fuss. More than anything else, i just like the stink of a rotten old soob:headbang:
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i had similar problems with my ignition switch, i just said screw it and went with a push button start under the dash.. also makes for a handy anti theft setup for all those folks trying to jack a real hot rod, heh.
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Thanks for the ideas, i will definately look into the honda springs.
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the brackets i am using are 1.5 inch angle iron, attached to the inner wheel well, i already had to beat the snot out of the well to get them as close to the body as i could, avoiding tire rub.
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i am currently using some 4 bolt pug steelies, if i had another 1/4 inch spacing everything would be fine, i agree, more offset would be better, ya think 15 inch pug alloys would give me the proper clearance, or should i investigate spacers? Ideally the rims you have would be better, but id like to work with what ive got if ya know what i mean.
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hey guys, i have a couple questions. I have an 84 gl wagon with a 4 inch lift, that has the disc brake conversion, and a coilover rear suspension, with the torsion bar disconnected/broken. the problem i am having is that when i really get into a trail, or have it loaded, the tires (205/75/14) rub on the side of the coilovers. they are mounted as close to the body as possible, and are in pretty sad shape. I know that if i had a stiffer setup, the problem would be solved, any ideas of a small diameter coilover that would fit/work? Should i attempt putting a new torsion bar on instead? Thanks!
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Thanks guys, i am gonna go check them tonight, and if they are the 15's, will most likely sell them here, i would rather you guys have em than some wanna be from craigs list.
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I have a set of flat spoke pug wheels, i think they are 15 inch, but uncertain, are there any markings that distinguish either?? And if they are the 15 inch wheels, is the offset greater than the 14" pug steelies? Thanks.
Naches Pass and surrounding area
in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
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I think the naches trail has got to be one of my favorite trails. I have done it several times in various vehicles, and each time is better than the last. I have never done the lower section of it, as the ruts were too deep, but the upper section was a blast, taking 3 or 4 hours to complete depending on beer, and picture breaks. This trail would be *perfect* for a lifted soob. I am looking forward to it.