Executive Summary:
In AWD after things warm up it binds and "clunks" hard, then tosses trouble code 16 (torque control cut signal). The system has to be reset. Most of the time my Subbie goes fine in FWD mode. Unfortunately every few months usually on a long trip 100's of miles from home the Subbie decides to just ignore the fuse and goes into binding AWD until reset.
Details:
She's a 95 Legacy LS AWD 2.2L with the 4EAT. Wonderful and well maintained, proper level of Dexron III auto transmission fluid, differentials have proper level of (2 year old) API GL-5 80W-90 and the magnetic plugs show no signs of shavings. About two years ago started using FWD at first to save mpg, then to reduce minor problems, now it's required.
When purchased, 2.5 years ago, two wheels were new, and two worn. Replaced the worn pair with new ones that wore quickly over the next couple years, mainly due to not having an alignment immediately after the half shafts were replaced. It was aligned about a year ago. Just before winter I replaced the worn (newer tires) with a pair of new ones. Purchased another pair to replace the old ones but Sears claims all four have about 6 to 7 / 32nds measured in 3 spots across the tires.
The hard "clunks" occur when I'm in AWD mode, warmed up, stopped, then give her some gas. It feels like the wheels slip at different rates then it shifts. A few minutes from then, any gradual turn will cause wheel hop. When restarted, code 16 exists (and binding) until reset and run in FWD.
The major trouble is when the Subbie ignores the FWD fuse. Like I said this usually happens on a road trip, but not exclusively. On top of the torque bind and clunks it also seems sluggish (like it is in "limp mode").
Yesterday I followed the shop diagnostic chart for trouble 16. All grounds and voltages were correct! The chart's solution was "Clear memory" and if that didn't work "Replace TCM". So I got a new TCM! Put the new TCM in drove around a parking lot in AWD doing donuts every which way, drove like a dream. About 30 minutes later pulled off the highway and felt a "clunk" at a light then 5 minutes later in a parking lot the torque bind was back. There was a warm smell of Dextron coming from the engine when I opened the hood. When restarted, got trouble code 16, again. Switched back the TCM and set it in FWD again.
Questions:
Should I return the TCM, minus the restocking fees?
Should I install a transmission cooler?
This is beyond my usual shop's comfort level, they'll want to replace the entire transmission at discount.
Another (expensive) shop claims it's a design flaw, recommend a dealer rebuild kit but it'll be expensive.
WHAT DO I DO?
Thanks,
Rude
Executive Summary: In AWD after things warm up it binds and "clunks" hard, then tosses trouble code 16 (torque control cut signal). The system has to be reset. Most of the time my Subbie goes fine in FWD mode. Unfortunately every few months usually on a long trip 100's of miles from home the Subbie decides to just ignore the fuse and goes into binding AWD until reset. Details: She's a 95 Legacy LS AWD 2.2L with the 4EAT. Wonderful and well maintained, proper level of Dexron III auto transmission fluid, differentials have proper level of (2 year old) API GL-5 80W-90 and the magnetic plugs show no signs of shavings. About two years ago started using FWD at first to save mpg, then to reduce minor problems, now it's required. When purchased, 2.5 years ago, two wheels were new, and two worn. Replaced the worn pair with new ones that wore quickly over the next couple years, mainly due to not having an alignment immediately after the half shafts were replaced. It was aligned about a year ago. Just before winter I replaced the worn (newer tires) with a pair of new ones. Purchased another pair to replace the old ones but Sears claims all four have about 6 to 7 / 32nds measured in 3 spots across the tires. The hard "clunks" occur when I'm in AWD mode, warmed up, stopped, then give her some gas. It feels like the wheels slip at different rates then it shifts. A few minutes from then, any gradual turn will cause wheel hop. When restarted, code 16 exists (and binding) until reset and run in FWD. The major trouble is when the Subbie ignores the FWD fuse. Like I said this usually happens on a road trip, but not exclusively. On top of the torque bind and clunks it also seems sluggish (like it is in "limp mode"). Yesterday I followed the shop diagnostic chart for trouble 16. All grounds and voltages were correct! The chart's solution was "Clear memory" and if that didn't work "Replace TCM". So I got a new TCM! Put the new TCM in drove around a parking lot in AWD doing donuts every which way, drove like a dream. About 30 minutes later pulled off the highway and felt a "clunk" at a light then 5 minutes later in a parking lot the torque bind was back. There was a warm smell of Dextron coming from the engine when I opened the hood. When restarted, got trouble code 16, again. Switched back the TCM and set it in FWD again. Questions: Should I return the TCM, minus the restocking fees? Should I install a transmission cooler? This is beyond my usual shop's comfort level, they'll want to replace the entire transmission at discount. Another (expensive) shop claims it's a design flaw, recommend a dealer rebuild kit but it'll be expensive. WHAT DO I DO? Thanks, Rude