rude

I was going to do the same thing last winter. In fact I still have them from my 95 Legacy. I had an ABS code (rear wheel sensor) and the pump turned on. I replaced the sensor and both relays (not sure if they were needed). I could sell you my old relays, as-is, for next to nothing. At least you could learn from opening yours up and use these in the mean time. They are working now, but hate to sell anything that I had a possible issue with. Rude (fighting the pack rat within)

I have 01 "S" with factory everything, including LSD. Is there anything you want to know about it? I think I have the orginal window sticker, somewhere.

My plugs were not real tight, after being in there for 100k, factory installed ~7 years ago. Put the new ones in around 15 in-lbs. FYI: NGK website “how do I read a spark plug” normal wear in a four stroke is 0.00063~0.000126 inches/1,000 miles, so for 100,000 that would be 63 to 13 mils. I suspect I got 30 to 40 mils of wear, depending on what they started at.

That's the exact model plug in the 2001 Forester! Still got them since I wanted to closely look at the yellowing of the insulator.

Hmm. Maybe a dealership replaced them. I don’t know of a way to tell. I guess it doesn’t make a difference, now it’s got the good NGK plugs in and is gapped properly. Though I did read about Champion plugs being OEM: “…it's not uncommon to find that your Subaru came from the factory with Champion plugs” Peaty 01-16-2007, 04:37 PM Link: http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-3017.html Also, “Many Subarus come with Champion Plugs (US parts content) and they are notorius for causing mis-fire codes.” SubyTechMaster 11-10-2001, 05:57 PM Link: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-111576.html

They were Champion plugs; I thought that’s what Suabru’s came with. The gaps were within a 3 mil tolerance (can you tell I’m an engineer). The side electrode looked good with fairly sharp corners, but the tip if the center electrode was very rounded and barely sticking out of the insulator. I just read on the NGK website “how do I read a spark plug” normal wear in a four stroke is 0.00063~0.000126 inches/1,000 miles, so for 100,000 that would be 63 to 13 mils. I suspect I got 30 to 40 mils of wear, depending on what they started at.

After almost 100k miles, I just replaced the plugs in my mother's old 01 Forester, for the first time. Put in some new NGK's in with a 0.035" gap. Old plugs looked ok, a little white but the gaps measured at least 0.075"!!! Wondering if it was caused by wear or if the orginals really had a huge gap? Also wonder if my "hard to start" conditions could have been related to these plugs? Any comments? (That is other than "it's a good thing your mother drove a Subaru that could take really take abuse".)

It’s been a week with no “hard to start” situations! I’m sure the moment my wife takes it out it will not start. Got an electronic RPM induction measuring thingy from a friend, but no chance to use it, yet. Been driving it about every other day. Not sure about the fuel filter but no stumbling when I call for lots of fuel, petal to the metal. Rude

First off, no “hard to start” situations to report from the last few days (Ya!). The $25 sensors are from Jason at Mike Scarff Subaru of Auburn. I think his number is 1-866-528-5282, then ask for Jason in parts. You can search for parts (and prices) at www.1stsubaruparts.com though I did not find fuel pump relay for my forester. Got a friend with a spark tester but it puts a hole in the wire, and obviously will not test the plug. I’ll still need a hand turning the key. I can see your point about being able to use the starting fluid without an extra person. Sorry for the delay in my response, but I am: RUDE

The temp sensor was my mechanics first thought, as he had replaced one in my 95 Legacy when it had a check engine light. He said he scanned the Forester and there were no recorded problems (freeze frames), he read 93°F from the coolant sensor, which was reasonable for the time. Found out the ignition system relay (Is this the fuel pump relay?) and the neutral safety switch are the same for my Legacy 95 as this Forester, maybe I could try swapping some parts. I’ve seen fuel pumps for ~$50 and new crankshaft position & temp sensors are only $25 each. (If you think of a tank of fuel costing $50, these parts seem cheap, just hope I don’t have to buy too many.) I still wonder if it will turn out to be something as simple as the factory security system disabling the start. Instead of starting fluid maybe I should get an extra spark plug. When it doesn’t start I can remove a wire and put it on the test plug. Shouldn’t require any tools. Any thought about the fuel pressure regulator? Been looking at a Subaru parts sight for anything starting with “Fuel”. Thanks Porcupine73 – I’ve seen reattached fingers because a shady tree mechanic didn’t realize the fan would spin up when a sensor was removed. I’ll be careful, only Subbie war wounds so far are from transmission plug unexpectedly letting loose under heavy force. (frame parts might be rusty, but can still be sharp) Rude

First off thank you all for responding to a Subaru in need! I'll look for the relay, is it a common problem? I remember reading about it somewhere in the forums. Good idea on the starter fluid, I will pick up a can for the car today. -------------------- Starter seems fine, it cranks great, but when the key is released it stops (no sputtering). I can turn it over for 10 seconds straight, then let go and it instantly stops. -------------------- Not hot, been sitting for 6 hours when I went to start it ~11pm on a flat on-street parking spot. Then it sat for 6 days til I tried to restart it ~4pm parked flat on my gravel driveway. -------------------- Wish it were a cranking problem, but this is a little strange. Checked engine temp sensor – seems good. Should I add crank position sensor to the list? It was cool when it would not start. -------------------- Tried moving the shifter to drive, then back to park, when not starting, no change. Next time I plan to open the gas cap to see if there’s vacuum built up in the tank. I still plan to keep an eye on the fuel and spark system. Thinking fuel since it idles fine and does not seem related to being wet. Speaking of which, never noticed this problem until my mechanic detailed it (degreasing the engine with chemicals and high pressure water July 2nd). Then again, I’ve had it for about a month now, driven it only about 10 times and it sat for the 6 months prior to me taking possession.

Back on 7/7/7 I went to a wedding and had a great time. That evening when we went start the car my wife turned the key and it tried to start, about 20 times before it finally started! Smooth idle. Thought it was a strange fluke and didn’t even try to start it, until Friday the 13th. I noticed a tire needed some air when I went to start it, turned over but no start. Tried 15 more times. Then got a neighbor to listen for the fuel pump, he couldn’t tell so I tried a few more times. We switched places and I stuck my head by the engine and fuel tank couldn’t tell anything, but after 5 more times it started. I drove it to my mechanic. He had it for 5 days but “never recreated any problems”. Any ideas? Fuel pump, relay, spark plug, wires, neutral safety switch? Anybody know the location of the relay? It’s got 100,00 miles. Got a fresh tank of gas on 4th of July. Thanks in advance.

Me! Well I know it's in the front left (passenger side) if you move the air scoop there is a little black box. Loosen the front clip and lift toward the back and up. You will see 2 relays (and a resistor). The rear one has a plus sign molded in plastic on top. This winter I had one throw a code and turn the pump on. I plan to buy both, new from a friend of mine at a dealership. I could sell my old ones or give you my friend's info. He needs about $75 for both, new. I'd sell you my old ones, as-is, for next to nothing but I wouldn't plan on them working forever. They are working now, but hate to sell anything that I had a problm with, even once. Rude

1995 Legacy 2.2l auto, 154k Today I did 410miles on a tank (13.5 gal) that's ~30mpg. FWD fuse in, 70mph average, in the rain, on the mountains of the western PA turnpike (and back). FYI:Much better than the 26mpg on a piece of junk new Kia Rio I rented in LA. RUDE

Nothing has headed my way.

I want the best Subbie $200/month can get me, but need to save cash for a mechanic's inspection. Don't want to have the inspection if there is something very wrong in it's past. I would have never though I could afford an Outback Ltd, seems too good to be true.

Time for another Subaru? Please run a Carfax or other VIN check for me. 4S3BH686317616703 Thanks in advance, Rude xxx@xxx.xxx [hate spam]

Update- After 3 weeks I got the upper strut mount and went back to new mechanic. He said it was the wrong side (got the Left Hand side, most likely his fault - but doesn't matter) while he had it in there he removed, cleaned and lubed the rear sway bar then assembled everything to correct torque settings - and the “clunk” is gone! I’m very pleased it seems to have vanished, but remain puzzled. I’m looking into returning the mount (still in the bag) I ordered from 1st Subaru. Rode around for a few days with an empty car and a full load but seems to be really gone? Rude

#12 New shop says "Get an upper strut bearing plate" and gave me the same picture I posted! I think the rest of the world calls this a "strut mount". They also said it shouldn't be too dangerous. I do have two questions: 1.) Should I get KYB's (cheaper) or dealer mounts? Could they be the same. 2.) The driver's side is: A.) Left B.) Right Thanks in advance, Rude

Somebody else told me the same thing (as above) so last week got 4 new KYB GR-2's installed. I noticed a BIG difference in the handling (no change in "clunk"). Wife just noticed the $500 it cost. Tried to get my subbie in a more expensive shop, they said when they felt they had the time they would call me!?!? I think I'm in the wrong business. rude

I've got a 95 legacy that is doing the same "thunk" in the same conditions. Seems to be coming from the back. Since my mechanic tried spraying the bushings with WD-40 and no luck I plan to buy replacements. Looking at the picture, could you please tell me which links / bushings id numbers helped?

No. I’ve driven over 20,000 miles in FWD mode, over 99% of the time. A few days the GF felt safer using the AWD on the highway, even though we’d get torque bind when turning at low speed. FYI you can shift in/out of AWD while cruising down the road if you install a switch. Chef asked about tire wear and fuel mileage. You will get more wear on the front tires in FWD mode (like any FWD car), but I’ve found more variation in tire manufacturers. I got 20k miles out of a pair of Dunlop Sport A2’s but since I had new half shafts put in (due to torn boots) and the toe was badly out of alignment for a few months. My wear numbers may not be very helpful. Just rotating would solve the problem. I got about 24 MPG FWD compared to 22 MPG AWD, over a tank, each way, in the summer. In the interest of full disclosure the AWD was used in one direction of our trip because it was raining hard (some would argue an effect). Then again while in FWD it was warm and we had the AC on, and so on. When finally having my torque bind issue addressed by a Subbie experienced mechanic he was not concerned about the extra wear on duty solenoid C. By keeping it in FWD, to avoid torque bind, I saved my clutch packs. DooMeSuuby might be suffering from what my 95 Legacy LS had. Alias20035 knows quite a bit on the subject of mid 90’s torque bind and directs everybody to: http://www.legacycentral.org/library/torquebind.htm Hope this helps add some light, Rude

Hello- 16 blinks is your torque control cut off. Been there a few weeks ago. Posted the whole thing. I used a shop manual which lead me to believe it was my TCU, bought a new one, ran fine for 1/2 hour, then came back, returned TCU (minus a large restocking fee)....I'll just let you read my past posts. Be ready to spend about $750, more if you go to a dealer. rude

Nice guy, got to see the wear on the old housing! Strange that the teflon seal seemed fine but Al housing was worn bad. He believed my AT OIL TEMP 16 blinks were due to a valve assembly on that housing so we replaced it too. My damage: Torque diff kit $278 Valve assembly $83 Pipe (from valve) $12 Exhaust bolts $20 5 Qt ATF fluid $10 Labor $200 Tax $36 Over $400 in parts was more than I expected, perhaps $200 would have been a little too good to be true, but seems to have fixed it! He also said the clutch packs looked good and since it's not a 2.5 with Dual Cam we shouldn't see each other for a long while. Early Forester wheel bearings and replacing a short block on a 2002 Subaru have kept him busy lately. Many thanks again, Rude

Many thanks in advance to alias20035! He seems to be the expert on the TB question. I believe he’s correct because a shop told me the same thing. Tomorrow my 95 legacy goes into that independent shop who specializes in subbie drivetrains. At first I thought the guy might be ripping me off (stating I should be ready for a total cost of $500, because the dealer kit alone is $300). Now I think it sounds too good to be true. Just wish I knew if I ruined my clutch packs, done a mile here and there in AWD over the past few years. Had the fuse in for the other 20,000 miles. Rude