wiwrx

Bump!

Will the 07 forester xt struts springs and tophats fit a 98 outback wgn? I am guessing that the strut tops might not be spaced right in which case I would just drill new holes but the lower mounts look to be the typical subaru design. Does anyone have any insight on this? I am currently running my 02 wrx sedan's suspension which is fine but I need to tow a boat and that rear end is sagging pretty good.

You are correct. All of the stuff (car w/ 2.5 in it and 2.2l) is at my parents garage not in front of me. I would be tapping the intake manifold correct? or both intake and head? do the parts need to be removed? Is there no way to make this work without the egt ... I mean is it really worth the trouble, wouldn't it just put up a cel?

So can I bypass it somehow?

I don't really feel like taking off the intake manifold on this motor. what is required to install an egr on a non egr motor? Would I be better off?

I thought they were for something like that. I hope ther is a way to wire out the egr. I have to look into it closer.

What are my options with a mt 97 2.2l? It is egr-less and I need an exhaust manifold. Is there any way that I could bypass using an egr? -shawn

I just noticed that there are fuel lines going to the right front corner of the engine on the 2.2l the 2.5 does not have these fuel lines. What are they used for? IDK where my book is to look it up.

The car originally had the 2.5L and I am swapping in a 2.2L from a 97 impreza. The ej22 does not have an egr can this be resisted out or do I have to drill the intake manifold and all that stuff to accompany the egr? I really would rather resist it out if possible. What exhaust manifold do I need? I doubt that my 2.5l exhaust manifold will fit so what does fit both the 97 ej22 and my 98 Outback? Is there anything else that I am forgeting? Any help would be greatly appreciated, Shawn

Would it really reach the oil filler cap?

Well, Everything was done properly. Heads were milled and pressure tested. Gaskets were purchased from 1stsubaruparts.com and are the new 4ply design. I honestly do not think I had air in the system. Even if I did what caused it to boil over in the first place? Certainly not a bubble after 600miles of driving. It is weird I just changed the oil and it is higher than I filled it which leads me to believe that water is in the oil. Am I right in thinking this? Maybe I did over fill it as I added the last bit and did not check. However, I am pretty positive that something else is going on. I drove the car for a little bit not knowing that the intake and exhaust cams, though correctly spaced, were a half tooth off of the crank. It was fixed and ran a lot better. Could this have caused any problems? I'm starting to think 2.2L is my next project. Maybe ej22t? How hard is the ej22t to wire into the 98 outback? Thanks Guys, Shawn

I just did headgaskets and most of the parts that I could replace in the process. The car has driven 600mi no problems. Now, I started driving normal, not beating on it, but pushing it a litte harder. It drove fine. I had just got home when I noticed a trail of dripping coolant down my driveway and soon after a puddle under the car. The resevior was empty. I refilled and burped the system with water. Then I took the car for a drive and notice a very small change in the gauge which normalled back out. When I got home I let it idle and soon after I had bubbles comming out of the over flow tank ...boiling. What the hell is going on here? The only thing that I could think of was maybe a crack in the block. The car seems to still have all of its power. I don't Know. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Shawn

Well, we redid the timing twice last night. I beleive we only had 50 teeth from crank to intake on the left side where 51 is needed. The reason this occured is because of the ************ty marking on the cams. The indents were actually between where it should be. Oh well, it still isn't perfect but I don't expect it to be. So far I have driven about 30 miles w/ no cel. Thanks for all of your help. Wish me Luck! Shawn

Well, here is what I did: coilpack= tested and fine wires= bought new from subaru spark plugs= rechecked gap all sensors look to be functioning good egr= cleaned and now working pressure sensor on passenger fender replaced I could blow through one of the injectors while I couldn't on the others so I replaced it Everything seems to be functioning as it should. I am still getting misfire codes at idle cyl 2 and 4. I guess I'm going to go mess with timing some more because it is the only thing that I am not 100% sure about. Any other suggestions guys?

I just checked the coilpack and got 13.84 and 13.44 kohm secondary resistance. spec is 17.9 to 20something. I'm not entirely sure that I am testing it correctly. The coil only has 980mi on it so I don't think it has any problems. I took the car out and drove it a little harder than normal and as soon as I stopped in front of my driveway and let the car idle down I got a flashing cel 90% sure a missfire. Then I slowly drove it into the garage where I also let it idle again and the cel started blinking after about 15 seconds of idling. I have not got a flashing cel (all have been missfires) that fast one after the other. I can't take much more of this ************! I have to move into my friends house near college on Saturday it looks like I will have to take the wrx... I didn't want to. -Shawn

Well, I just cleaned out the egr. It was pretty dirty. I put it back together and I've still got the same problems. I manually opened the valve and noticed that it was indeed closed. So, it is clean but it didn't help.:-\ Now I'm going to go test the coilpack. Any other ideas? Thanks for the help so far, Shawn

INTERESTING! This is what I first thought it was but couldn't find much of any info on it. I didn't think that it could be causing misfires though can it?

I'll try and test the coilpack tonight. I was told by a mechanic at work that anything egr related shouldn't be causing the severe problems that I am seeing. However, he was talking about egr's in general not subaru specific. IDK and am not sure if he does either. -Shawn

I don't have the exact numbers on me but average was 175 with a less than 10% difference.

Good read!

Wouldn't I not have spark then? or would it just jump somewhere? -Shawn

I don't think it's the maf I mean It has been sitting (not removed) with the airbox in the dry garage. It hasn't seen any water. Is it just a coincidence that both misfires are on the left side of the engine? -Shawn

Could valve adjustment be that bad as to cause my problems? I mean everything was marked and replaced just as it was before removal. -Shawn

I recently puchased a 98 Outback with a known headgasket leak. 167,xxxmi 2.5L DOHC Recent Changes include: heads done at local trusted shop and pressure tested, most gaskets and seals replaced, water pump, oil seperator cover, timing belt, tensioner and pullies, crank pully off legacy 2.5, clutch, act streetlight flywheel, and ngk plugs. However, valve shim adjustment was not done. Upon Startup the engine idled noticably rough. Above 1000 rpm the violent shaking and exhaust sound goes away and drives extremely nice. Plenty of power. After driving a few miles I got a cel. I hooked up the scanner from work which said cyl 2 & 4 misfire along with some egr flow something or another. I then checked redid and checked timing multiple times to be certain... still rough. I did a compression check and rechecked plug gap... normal and still rough. I replaced the beldin plug wires with brand new subaru wires one at a time which may or may not have had an effect. I guess they might have helped a small amount. What the hell is going on here? I checked all vaccume lines, electrical connections, fuel lines, basically everything that I could possibly think of. Any help would be greatly appreciated, Shawn