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Everything posted by mjreilly

  1. Hold down the DISP button and use the up and down tuning buttons to set the hours and minutes. I think that's it. matt
  2. I don't get it, I thought the last redesign of the Legacy/Outback was great, sleek and sharp and still kinda tough and unique, not as "heavy" looking as the previous gen. What are they thinking? First the "aviator" grill and now this. matt
  3. Those look like the same wheels I have. Great, thanks for the info. I was under the impression that the extra suspension height came from the Outback struts and I could use my stock springs. Is that true? matt
  4. The 70 series would be taller, right? That's what I'm more worried about. cheers, matt
  5. Hi guys, I've been thinking of doing a Outbackification of my 95 Legacy Outback wagon. For anyone who doesn't know, the 95 Outback was just a Legacy L AWD with a special trim package and some extras. It lacks the raised suspension of the later Outbacks. I know I can swap some Outback struts to gain some inches but what about the tires? According to http://www.cars101.com/subaru/tiresandwheels.html the 95 came with 195/60 R15 on 6.0jj alloy wheels. It says the 96-99 Outbacks came with 205/70 R15 tires on 6.0JJ alloy, offset 55 wheels. Now, my question is, will 205/70 R15s fit on my wheels? i'm assuming I'd have to go with the Outback struts for clearance reasons. Are there any wheel offset issues? cheers, Matt
  6. It you don't have a magnetic socket, at least have a long handled magenet on hand to retrieve the bolt from underneath the intake manifold whe you drop it. It's a tight sqeeze starting the bolt when you're putting in the new sensor. The procedure in the Haynes manual actually says to remove the intake manifold. You absolutely don't need to, it just makes it much less of a pain in the butt.
  7. You could also jump the starter terminals with a screwdriver when it doesn't want to start and see if it turns over.
  8. I had a similar sounding problem in my 95 OBW. Intermittant no start, no clicking of the solenoid (although I would hear the starter relay in the dash clicking. After a new battery, reman starter and new battery cables I still had the problem. The alternator checked out OK when I had it tested. I ended up installing a "hard start relay" and it solved my problem. Basically it's a relay that the ignition switch triggers that supplies current to the starter solenoid.The idea is that perhaps the ignition switch is worn and is having problems passing the relatively large amount of current needed to trigger the solenoid but has no trouble passing the small amount to trigger the relay I added. Whether I've actually fixed the problem or just masked it, I'm not sure. I do know that it fires up every time now. I would check all the usual suspects that others have mentioned first. I did find a thread someplace on the board with a schematic for the relay but now I'm having trouble tracking it down. cheers, matt
  9. Are you getting a check engine light, even intermittently? Could be the coolant temperature sensor. If it's faulty the ecu won't realize the engine is already warm and flood it on a warm restart. Does it start right up if you let it sit (cool down) for a while? I had a similar sounding problem on my 95 OBW and it was a cheap fix. cheers, matt
  10. I had a code for the malfunctioning knock sensor on my 95 Legacy L "Outback" 2.2L a couple of months back. It took me a while to replace it and I def. noticed less power with it malfunctioning. With no knock sensor the engine computer goes into a failsafe mode doesn't apply any spark advance to prevent knocking. Changing it was pretty easy, the Haynes manual describes removing the intake manifold but its not necessary. Like the previous poster said, the right sized socket extension and it comes out pretty easily, work with the engine completely cool as you have to snake your hand down under the throttle body to unplug/plug in the sensor and start the bolt in the block.
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