Sube dude
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Posts posted by Sube dude
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Did you replace the fuel filter with the pump? Does the "Check engine lite" come on? Fuel may be blocked at the filter. The previous (one and only) owner of my '95 Leggy never changed the filter - it quit after about ten years and 160 k miles! You might say he was oblivious to things automotive.
HTH.
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Right on! I'm half way there with my '95 Leggy 2.2 (300 k. km.) I hope to make it 500 k. km.+ It's a second owner unit, mostly highway driven with no rust or collison damage. I've put on 60k. km. in the past year since I began driving it. This time I did have the O/P changed @ 250 km. My '91 Loyale has 600 k. km. on the odo but it got there with a transplant. I didn't know about replacing the oil pump and the original 1.8 L motor calfed at 400 k. km. :~( The transplanted engine is awaiting a head gasket job - a pin hole leak on a heater hose caused it to overheat resulting in the gasket failure. My son plans to drive it once we get the heads done. My '86 GL did close to 600 k. km. on the original engine before the body rusted away. They do seem to be tough cars!
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Alternator change time ?
... AM I correct in assuming time for a new alternator ?
BTW,
93 Legacy 4WD wagon, 5 speed, no air.
Thanks
JF
A decent auto electric shop might be able to repair it. It might just be the brushes are worn out. My '91 600 k km+ Loyale's alternator is original except for new brushes. Ditto the starter, the fuel pump, wiper motor and most of the electrical bits - go figure!
The only bit I've replaced is the heater fan (gets a lot of use at -40 degrees!) Cheers.
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...I'm already planning to do: replace timing belt (includes check oil pump back plate screws and reseal and o-ring, ...
Given its' age, I'd throw in a new oil pump while the front of the engine is accessible. I'm told by a very experienced Sube wrench that the '95 & '96 EJ22 has a poor oil pump with similarily poor longevity. Mine expired at +/- 150 k mi. FWIW, I'd use a new OEM OP, not aftermarket one.
HTH. -
... Otherwise it seems like a pretty solid wagon with 160,000 mi.--With a little luck we can get it fixed up and stay below $2000.00. This is my fifth soob, oddly enough, almost the same color as the first one.
Well, it's just nicely broken in then.
I'd venture to say - "You done good!" My '95 had about the same mileage last year when I bought it. I'd suggest you get the oil pressure checked out - the oil pumps are less than wonderful in these. I ended up having mine replaced along with one blank of lifters at about 155k mi. If there's any top engine tapping, clicking, etc., I'd do it right away. I'd also reccomend you stick to 3k mi/3 month oil changes. Other than the OP, mine has 280k km on virtually all original parts other than the normal belts, seals, brake pads, etc. It was a one owner, mainly highway driven canoe transporter for ten years. I too use it mainly for long distances due to living in the hinterland. 
HTH. -
I'm talking to the auto shop and here is what I'm considering. My car is a 97 Impreza w/ 79k miles.
- Oil Change + New Oil Filter
- Alightnment/Rotation
- New Timing Belt
- New Water Pump
- Replace Cam + Crank Seals
- Reseal Oil Pump
Is any of this overkill? And am I missing anything? Because I don't want to change anything I don't need to. However I don't want to leave something out and have to end up taking it right back in if I have a problem. Thanks!
Are the cam (timing) belts original? They're overdue if they are. I think 60k mi. is what's suggested. What about the ALT/PSP/AC belt? The fuel filter might be long in the tooth. I'm not sure why you'd change the WP but you may want to change the coolant if it's getting old - the inhibitors may be used up. Not a good thing in an aluminum engine. HTH. Cheers.
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Ok, well i figured out the knocking noise, it was the harmonic pulley(dad told me a new word) now i took out the bolt and it was super loose, and poured locktite all over it(blue locktite) and put it back in and torqued it down. 20mins later after i exit a highway and i hear it idling, it lossened again! Whats the best way to hold the pulley and torque the bolt, because when u tighten it, it turns over the engine, so u cant really torque it, got any ideas? Thanks guys, and i need help before tommorow, because my mom needs the car.
If it's a manual Transmission, take the inspection cover off the top of the bell housing and jam a wide chisel or something similar between the ring gear and the housing. If you've got some help, have the person hold it in place and torque away. A little crude but it works. HTH.
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I've been waiting for someone to post this problem. My '95 does the same thing as noted in the original thread.
It seems to be nosiest when you first drive away but the noise comes back when you back off the thottle. I suspected something in the rear AWD system (which I don't much about as my GL was FWD and my Loyale has the mechanical/selectable AWD system but the previous post here has me thinking it might be in a bearing of some sort back there. I had a shop check out the driveline on a hoist and road test it but they didn't come up with the cause. There's 275k km. (~170k mi.) on it, mostly highway driving. I suspect all the bearings are original. Any feedback would be appreciated. Cheers. -
I've wondered about the revs too. My very basic Brighton has no tach but it does seem pull a lot of revs at 100 km/hr in 5th gear. My Loyale 5 spd. pulled about 3100 at 100 km/hr which seems high to me. I don't think taller gearing is available for either of them. The power loss might be due to a partially clogged fuel filter. My '95 Legacy was pretty gutless until I changed it out. I runs much better now that it's not half starved. HTH.
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how long u think i can safely drive it? Shes got about 140km trip back to where my local mechanic is.
I'm not going to guess if she'll hang together or not.
I'd jack up the LF wheel and check for play in the bearings. Push/pull the wheel and tire side to side and top to bottom. If there's any movement in the wheel bearing hub (not the steering tie rod or lower ball joint) that will confirm it's the bearings. The drive axle nut may have come loose. It's supposed to have a split pin through it and torqued to about 150 ft.lb. It can happen that the nut will wear/work itself loose and cause play in the bearings. Good luck. HTH. -
I suspect it's from the hub carrier, not the CVJ boot. With the front bearings (there's two per wheel) adrift, the grease has leaked out and the centrifugal force has thrown on the inside of the wheel. If the drive axle and/or the hub carrier is not ratched, I think you'll find the bearings and seals (again two) not that pricey.
The rear bearings were much more expensive as I recall. HTH. -
Check the seal on the metal coolant pipe that's between the one rad hose (driver's side [LHD]) and the the front of the engine at the water pump. I've had a leak there in the past. HTH.
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I don't know what the Factory reccomends or doesn't, but my "go-to" Sube guy who's worked on this marque forever tells me to run Non/Syn 10-40 in the summer and 5/10-30 in the winter. HTH.
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Yes, its part of the case.
Thanks, I thought so.
However, I was hoping for a different answer! -
I have a question regarding the manual T/A. I know the Loyale 1.8 L. does not use a replaceable sleeve for the throw out bearing to slide on but rather uses a cast sleeve integeral to the T/A case. This in time can lead to damage to the casing as I discovered with the Loyale.
The T/O bearing on my Legacy is getting a little noisy although there seems to be no clutch slippage. Is the Legacy designed the same? I don't want to end up replacing the casing for the sake of not replacing the bearing. Thanks for your help. -
Did you check for oil leaks? The Sube boxer engines have a history of being less than oil tight. On the otherhand, from my experience, they seldom burn oil. Maybe they missed something when they were into the engine.
Sube dude
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Right - just as you called! If I had to guess I'd say that's the first time the fuses have seen daylight in eleven years.
:D It looks totally untouched, complete with all three spare fuses. Thanks for your posts. BTW, the tag inside says "assembled in Mexico", the VIN plate beside the fuse box is in English and Japanese and the VIN plate at the bottom of the Driver's door rear post says "assembled by Subaru/Isuzu Auto. Inc.". I was told Subaru has an assembly plant in Illinois. Were these Legacys built in Japan or North America - just wondering? I suspect Japan but I'm not sure.
Cheers.
Sube dude
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Read here about fuses in box on the driver's side of front wheel well. I'm curious now to take a peek inside. OK, I'll bite - how to you open the clip/holder at the back of the lid? It looks like you need to depress/pull some part of it. At its age, I don't want to snap it off as I imagine it's getting rather brittle.
Thanks.
Sube dude
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Greetings everyone:
I came upon this site while researching an ACU/EMS problem with my Legacy which is now resolved. :~] I plan to use the expertise here to help insure longevity for my car and keep in touch with fellow owners and enthusiasts.
Cheers.
Sube dude
interchangeablity of driveshafts.
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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I hope you meant 100 k miles!
My two retired subes have about 400 k miles on them. The Loyale needed a replacement shaft at about 300 k miles and as far as I know the GL's is original.
My Leggy 5SM is presently in a shop awaiting a transplant since the front universal bearing gave up at a mere 240 K miles. :-\ It caused a low speed vibration and a definite "clunk" when I let the clutch out in reverse.
I do know there are two types of drive shafts fitted to the Leggy and I'm told they are not interchangable.
Cheers.