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michaelbteam

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Posts posted by michaelbteam

  1. there are some late 90's legacy wagons and impreza's sedan's and OBS(except the impreza RS) that have the 2.2 liter engine. i think even up to 2000...2001...2002 maybe some impreza's have the 2.2. i'd go that route myself since they don't have the head gasket issues. no way i'd drop 9,000 on a newer 2.5 unless it was 2003 or newer, but that's just me and i'm a little different than most.

     

    up to 1996 the 2.2 is a non-interference engine (like the legacy you speak of). 97 and up 2.2's are interference engines. all 2.5's are interference.

    GOOD STUFF--why only 2003 or newer?

  2. I love my older Legacy's because a half baked backyard mechanic like me can easily deal with most peripheral issues like timing belt, etc. and axles without much trouble. Also that the EJ22 is non-interference in case the timing belt gives up suddenly. I had a 99 Outback that frustrated me with an elusive HG problem so I have stuck with the older Leg's. My QUESTION: are all the later Sub engines interference? Any recommendations on buying a later model Outback, what years may be more reliable than others? A friend is looking to spend up to $9K on a used one. THANKS, any feedback appreciated. :clap:

  3. You should know exactly what you want in your engine and how much, talk to the tech doing the work, and double check the work. Unfortunately there are too many stories of incorrect fluids used, or incorrectly filled, like in the wrong filler pipes! Also, drain plugs too loose or too tight. Find someone you can trust-- and still be careful. Sometimes it helps to tip a concientious tech to do a good job.

    Same goes for tire dealers. Just last summer two friends lost wheels after tire work, one a Porshe Carrera and one a new Volvo XC. I always double check lug nuts. Most techs aren't getting paid much for a job that has dire consequences for mistakes.

  4. I bought a 99 outback last year with 180K on it for $5g's, good deal on a lovely car, so I thought...it had the same problem as yours, and would not duplicate it at the radiator shop where it ran for an hour flawlessly. Frustrating situation to troubleshoot, had to be a pretty minor leak

    Mine would only really overheat going up the steep canyons, a 6 mile drive from about 5 to 8000 feet. I got through the winter by adding coolant before every cold start, recycling the overflow tank into the radiator much of the time, probably only used a gallon of 50-50 all winter. ALSO- removed the thermostat so it would not overheat as quickly, saved coolant!

    Loved that car but sold it [cheap] to someone who felt like fixing it, now I'm only driving older sohc legacies. I'd say keep adding coolant regularly and look for another car.

    Good luck!

  5. I'm thinking if I tried to drive my 93 legacy that hard I wonder how long it would last. I need transportation, not a hot rod.

    We put a 5 litre mustang in a 740 Volvo awhile back and that was a screamer, the rest of the car had a hard time keeping up!

    Good luck.

    First and last time I got screwed by a shop I called the attorney general's office and the guy turned out to be a real crook. Luckily I was able to "steal" my truck back before I had to pay their whole bill because I had to re-do all the work. The guy ended up in jail--they caught him one weekend drunk-driving 100 miles away in a customer's car!

  6. The most interesting threads seem to be Subie all wheel drive discussions. Here's a question-observation. I put my 93 Legacy AWD automatic on 4 jackstands and ran it in low to try to diagnose a wheel noise. [turned out to be a rubbing e-brake pad]

    I noticed all wheels turning at slightly different speeds, the right rear turning the fastest. [with the rubbing pad] I could stop any wheel with my hand and the others kept turning, of course. Ideally, should all wheels turn at the same rate under no load conditions like this?---perhaps varying resistance like brake or wheel bearing drag would influence this. Comments??? Thanks.

  7. Hey all,

     

    Just scored me a fine new winter (or maybe year-round) ride. '93 legacy wagon, a/t, 250k with the 2.2:banana: Drives nice, shifts nice, and almost no rust (a few quarter sized holes in the same old spots)

     

    The guy was getting rid of it due to a fuel line leak:confused:

     

    SCORE!!!!:headbang:

     

    This is admittedly the first 2.2 Ive owned (always had 1.8s or 2.5s) I know the engine is darn near bulletproof ...but anything I need to watch for?

     

    Thanks guys and gals!

     

    :D :D :D :D :D (end gleeful rant):D :D :D :D :D :

     

    PICS !!! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/500/medium/WAGON1.JPG

    http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/500/medium/WAGON2.JPG

    HOW MUCH? $250.00?
  8. 8-9 quarts? It usually takes more work than that to drain the TC. Did you remove the cooler crossover pipe when your removed the filter?

    I think all 8 and a half quarts came out and I believe I removed the crossover pipe--I need to go back over my notes. I measured the drained amount and was careful when I filled it with the last couple of quarts, checking dipstick level often to avoid overfill. I was surprised too. I'll see if the same thing happens with the other 93 auto.

  9. For sure-- anyone should know if their engine is interference or not. Learned the hard way with my daughter's 93 Jetta--just hadn't gotten around to changing the belt because I did not understand the consequences. I was driving it the day it stalled. Had an interesting shade tree learning experience pulling the head for valve service. That's one reason we're sticking with non-interference 2.2 subies, and even have a spare legacy in case one car dies during our hectic winter. They don't last forever, but it's fun to see how far they'll go!

    For anyone with serve-yourself wrecking yard access, this summer I found a wreck with new belts, water pump, pulleys, tensioner...all for cheap, tensioners were $5, dealer price around $70. Also, good covers, since rusty cover bolts break covers. Silicone also works to glue 'em back on.

    If the car does not run perfectly after TB replacement, you know you missed a tooth, do it again.

  10. Just bought a "backup" 93 Legacy wagon with 175000 miles for $1000. The seller did mention the auto trans might be a little tired, shifting a little slower than it used to. It runs well but seems to hesitate ever so slightly going from 2nd to third, I think--compared to my other 93 wagon, auto. I've searched some threads for additive advice to prolong the inevitable demise of a tired auto trans, and wonder if anyone has anything new [or old] to add on the subject. Thanks in advance for your wisdom. :clap:

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