syncrosubie

sorry about the format...how do I attach an excel file? This is from the Subaru-vanagon list....trust it's all the same. You may be able to deciper the crap below. There are four columns by 16 rows for the 16 pin SMJ and 4 columns by 12 rows for the 12 pin SMJ. The four column headings from left to right are Computer Instrument side; Wire location; Engine side; and Color. Note that pins 6 and 8 on 16 pin SMJ and pin 8 on 12 pin SMJ have no wiring. -TG 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 Ign relay#3 1 Injectors Y/R d6 2 CPC solen W/Bl Ign Relay #4 3 IAC +CPC Sole Y/R Ign. On 4 Injectors Y Ignitor 5 Coil R/G 6 Ignitor 7 Coil Lt Bl 8 d13 9 Injctr 1 Br d12 10 Injctr 2 Lt. G d11 11 Injctr 3 Lt. Bl/W d26 12 Injctr 4 Lt Bl d/24d25 13 Ground B/Y Ignitor 14 Ground B d14 15 Ground B/W a11/a22 16 Ground B/R 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 c6 1 Throt. Snsr Br b1 2 Throt. Snsr W b3 3 Throt. Snsr R b2 4 Throt. Snsr B a7 5 H20 Temp Sndr B/Y a21 6 H20 Temp Sndr R/G c11 7 Ground G/B 8 Oil Press Lt (.3bar) 9 Oil Prss Sndr G/W Temp Gauge 10 Eng Thermometer W/G d2 11 By-Pass Air Cont W d1 12 By-Pass Air Cont B

Thanks Nipper. The guy who did my conversion is a charter member of the subievanagon yahoo group. I tried over there for a while. I learned a lot about my van and its new engine via this thread....just didn't fix it. Nobody seems to have seen anything like it...here or at subie-gon Legacy777 - I appreciate your advice. Unfortunately I don't know what the heck else to do than throw cheap parts at it. I may summarize and repost to a new thread as you suggested. Thanks for all your help, Tom

Swapped the wires last night. No change. Emailed with the installer and he said it wouldn't make a difference - he's right. I have $150 credit with the junkyard for the ECU...suggestions on parts to try? MAF? TPS? Could this be plugs and wires? thanks, TG

Thanks Cougar. I'll give it a try and see what happens. The one picture I have of that relay suggests both circuits are energized and it won't make any difference but hardly my forte! Will try my buddy's MAF this week too. Tempted by his TPS, too. But not sure how involved that is and I'd hate to screw up his adjustment! tyring to keep a stiff upper lip, TG

So.... a new used ECU produced no change....same CEL under same conditions....and couldn't scan that computer with my laptop either. a new dealer-supplied ignition relay produced no change. Started looking into my Ignition relay / Select Monitoring circuit and noticed that the installer may have mixed up the yellow-red wires to the ignition relay. The circuit that has the O2 sensor and the Super Junction Plug and Select Monitor goes to the relay pin below the black wire on the relay. Brent Weide's wiring diagram (http://www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/ - go to engine 1 then click on: Subaru Engine Conversion Information - RESOURCE MENU - July 2006 folder then click on: Remaining Wiring then select GOODWiringHarnessSchematic.pdf) shows it going to the pin below the green wire on the ignition relay. And vice -versa the ECU pinouts from A2 and A13 go to the ignition relay pin below the green wire when Weide shows them going to the pin below the black wire. So it almost seems like these circuits are reversed on the ignition relay. Does this further suggest what Cougar was thinking when he said: "It sounds like the lead that runs between the valve and the injector common lead may have something to do with this. I am guessing that it is a return lead for the valve circuit somehow." Might explain why I can't scan?? and more? getting really low on ideas...should I cut wires and see what happens? thanks, Tom

Thanks for the empathy. I'll update if the ECU works. If my MAF is the same as my buddy's I might just try swapping his in. -TG

I ordered an ECU from a subaru - suzuki dismantler. $150. Will let you know how it goes. edited - found legacy's discussion of MT/AT pin...will investigate what I got. Printed out the engine electrical wiring diagram - but I can't figure out whre the wires go when they hit the small numbered boxes (i.e. Section 6-3 (0504), page 19) numbers 1 thru 11. Seems like I need a Fold-out? Keeping my fingers crossed that I can plug and play! thanks, TG

Thanks Legacy777. Not to beat a dead horse...but I'm looking at page 75 (page 202 of 335 of PDF) of your scanned 1992 Service manual ... says 6 V and 7V for non-turbo (I get 12.5 v at both). Am I missing something? This seems to be the only thing that is out of spec... Any reason I care if the ECU is in M/T or A/T mode? I think I can figure that out with all the info you scanned. Thanks for your patience! I paid good money for this conversion so I wouldn't have to learn all of this stuff! Oh well...good for the brain I guess! -TG

Thanks folks! I confirmed the wiring - it's as you described, cougar. I checked continuity of both pins 1 and 2 of the 26 pin connector to the IAC - both were fine....0.3 ohms. The [pin 1(ECU) - pin 3(IAC)] and [pin 1(IAC) - pin 2(ECU)] relationships were correct. I confirmed my previous results - ignition on - Pins 1 and 2 to ground both give ~12.5 Volts. My buddy's van (a 90 AT motor/ECU -not sure if that matters, but wires were the same color) tested the same. Legacy777 - are you sure about your last post i.e. the 0 V at pin 1? How would I know if I have a MT or an AT ECU? My understanding is the ECUs in the 92s work for both. I used my laptop, the scantool, and my cable and it worked PERFECTLY on my buddy's van. So...it seems like my ECU doesn't want to talk to the scan tool. Wiring to the ECU is as shown on the cornell.edu website. I'm close buying an ECU...the subie diagnostic directions point me there. And the fact that I can't talk to the ECU makes me suspicious of it. 22611 AA931F ... does the F mean anything? Does anybody know anything about ECUDirect.com? Or other suggestions? still tempted by O2 sensor and ignition relay as these are relatively cheap parts that could be remotely involved, I guess? THANKS for you continued thoughts! -TG

Thanks Nipper. My understanding is the cornell.edu BC/BF free-ware scanning software will work on OBDI...and should work on my ECU. I've got codes...that's the code 24 that I keep getting that won't go away! And doesn't seem to be the IAC. thanks, TG

Got my van back from the front end work. Installed a new to me, supposedly good, IAC. Performs exactly like my old one....CEL on no-throttle descending, etc. bolsters my confidence that IAC is NOT the problem. Tested resistance on both IACs - both at spec. Tested idle portion of TPS - again right at spec. Tested ECU connector with ignition on at pins 1 and 2 of the biggest ECU connector - spec said 6V on one and 7V on the other. I got 12.5 V on both - not convinced I'm doing this right. Did not test wiring between ECU and IAC - needed another pair of hands. ECU had the following info: F9 22611 AA931F JA18000 RK3 2206 Automotive Electronic Control Systems, Inc. Still can't get Scan tool to work. Will try my buddies laptop and try my laptop on his van. Assuming wiring between ECU and IAC checks ok - and I think it will since the system works most of the time - Not sure where to go from here...02 sensor is cheapest part to buy and try. Tempted by a used/rebuilt ECU. slightly tempted by a new IAC slightly tempted by a new TPS. Should I try the local subaru dealer or independent for some scan info - do they have software to monitor realtime conditions? thanks, Tom

Thanks SEA#3. I've got the cable to go from the ECU to my old Win95 laptop. And I downloaded the cornell program. But the program didn't recognize my ECU. My van is having a little front end work done so I can't tell you what ECU is in it...but I will report back when I get the info. thanks, Tom

Thanks, Legacy777. I will get the ECU number and post it...but my van is having some front end work done and I probably won't see it for a week. Should the IAC do anything when coasting downhill at say 60 mph (3200 rpm ish in my van)? If I put it neutral and coast...no code thrown. It seems to me that perhaps it thinks it's idling when in fact it's coasting? But in general it idles fine... Thanks for the other suggestions....power source voltage to IAC seems easy enough...would doing this in the driveway be adequate? or would you monitor while driving and specifically when the CEL is triggered? I hope to have better luck with the BC-BF scan tool. I could probably get a spare ECU from the guy who did the conversion. I have unplugged and replugged all the connections several times... -Tom

Thanks, Nipper. The OBDI port is intact and attached to the ECU under my back seat. I've tried to use the scan tool out of cornell but thus far it has not recognized my ECU...a subievanagon wiring harness modifier (Tom Shiels) made and tested my communication cable so I think that's good. I believe the O2 sensor is new with the conversion...but if I can't get any data out of the scan tool that seems like the next thing to replace...if it doesn't work I'll have a spare. My thought is the O2 sensor is seeing something it doesn't like...perhaps the ECU thinks it's idling when in reality it's just coasting...so it's getting too much gas? Not necessarily a problem with the O2 sensor... What would tell the ECU it's coasting? RPM from cam or crank sensor? or VSS? What are you thinking re the knock sensor triggering the the coasting CEL? again, THANKS!

Bump....getting a few tidbits from the subie vanagon folks. Anybody know if the injectors shut down when coasting down hill? TPS, VSS, and RPM involved in this situation? Or is the VSS independent? thanks, Tom