JStamberg

Thanks, John, for the info on the engines. A friend and I checked out one today, supposedly had about 53k (1996) for $650. It looks like the car it was off of had front end damage (sheared crankshaft pulley, cut timing belt, motor mounts beat up), so I'm not too interested unless they're willing to take about half that. But I'm wondering if I may be alright without doing anything major to my current engine. Here's some of my latest findings: 1) Vacuum test: Pretty stable around 20.5 in HG (+/- .2 in) at idle. No fluctuations besides the minor needle vibration of .2 inches. With the quick acceleration and snap back to idle, it would drop to about 4 in Hg and rise back up to about 24 or 25 inches. From what I could tell in the Haynes manual that is pretty normal. Any other thoughts from anyone on those findings? 2) I rechecked the compression: Much better this time. The first time I watched someone else do it (I had never done it on a car before... only an airplane... a little different), and I don't think they blocked the throttle open, I'm also not sure how careful they were. I gave it about 6 or 7 hits on each cylinder. Here's my findings: Dry: #1: first hit: 105, final: 185 #2: first hit: 105, final: 180 #3: first hit: 110, final: 195 #4: first hit: 110, final: 190 Wet: #1: 210 #2: 215 #3: 215 #4: 215 I'm still going to get the coolant system pressure tested again, and I'm going to put the dye in. But the vacuum and compression tests seem to negate the likelyhood of head gaskets, but this is all knew for me, so please give me any advice/input you have! With those numbers, the smoothness of the engine, and fact that the coolant leak is still relatively slow, we may just keep driving it for a while (keeping a much better eye on the coolant level and temp gauge of course). Thanks again for everyone's help!

Good info, I appreciate it. The car has almost 202k miles on it, so I'll see if I can find a decent deal on an engine with under 125k miles on it. I'll still check the vacuum system. I may double check the coolant system pressure test and compression test numbers again.

What should I be looking for regarding mileage, condition? What's a reasonable price?

What's involved in the vacuum gauge test, can you "loan" those from autozone? Someone else suggested putting the coolant dye in there and checking that out. I'll probably try and do that later this week. Check out this engine, am I correct that this would work on my car? Its only 60 miles from where I live: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1997-SUBARU-LEGACY-2-2-ENGINE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQihZ017QQitemZ270136207750QQrdZ1 Other suggestions on used engines? What do I need to look for in terms of compatibility or condition? (I have a 96 Legacy LS with the 2.2 liter)

Thanks for the info, Nipper. Just for the record, I realized that I may have oversimplified my findings on the coolant system pressure test. Specifically this is what happened: We put about 9 PSI on it for 10 minutes or so, it seemed to have gone down about 1/2 PSI (to 8.5) during that time. I assumed that wasn't anything to worry about, but one friend seemed to think otherwise...

So any suggestions regarding going ahead with replacing the head gasket? Is it worth tearing into now (since I basically have free labor), or should I just let it go and hope it holds? Any other thoughts? If I'm going to do this, I'm going to need to start tearing into it this Thursday, due to our schedules. Thanks again!

The numbers are in: Coolant system showed no signs of leakage (held 9 psi for about 10 minutes) dry compression test: 1: 155, 2: 165, 3: 155, 4: 160 Wet: 1: 190, 2: 195, 3: 200, 4: 160 I also went ahead and replaced the radiator cap at the same time.

Alright, I'll get the compression tests and coolant pressure tests done after lunch today and post the results ASAP. Thanks for the info. Yes, obviously I need to do a better job of scanning the temp gauge. that's one thing this whole ordeal has taught me. I'll also be picking up a new radiator cap as well.

For anyone who may be reading this post as a reference, it has been 10 months and over 10,000 miles later, and the car is still doing well. No major shudder to speak of (still a little bit on real slow, tight turns, but I never did flush it a second time). Flushing the tranny clean did the trick.

I've searched the other threads, but I haven't found anything yet that seems to help where I'm at. Any advice is appreciated: 1 year ago I bought a 96 Legacy LS (2.2 Liter, Auto-trans), with about 185,000 miles on it. Last fall the radiator blew and I drove it a short time with it detonating before I realized what was going on.... the engine actually quit on me while going up a hill (I'm a genius aren't I?). The radiator and hoses were replaced, then a short time later the water pump was replaced. I've got about 201,000 miles on it now, and I've been doing several long trips recently (500+ miles), and my family will probably be doing A LOT of cross country travel in the next year (this is our only car). Over the past month I've noticed a slow but steady coolant loss. Maybe every 200-300 miles I have to put an inch or two of coolant into the overflow tank. I'm not seeing any obvious external signs of coolant loss. I mentioned this situation to my mechanic and he said that a lot of Subarus have problems with the head gaskets, and that its worth getting fixed before we hit the road this next year. I have a friend who has changed over 20 head gaskets on Hondas, but never before on a Subaru who is willing to help, but I don't want us to jump into a huge project when it isn't necessary either. So here's a few questions: 1) Is there some idiot proof ways that I can check to insure that it is the head gaskets? I saw on one post something about a pressure test kit that you can rent from Autozone? Would exactly would that check? I haven't noticed white smoke from the tailpipe, but if I do, what does that tell me? 2) Are there some other likely culprits I should check out first, and how should I do that? 3) Should I just sell off the car while it still runs well? 4) It seems my in-town gas mileage is low (19-22 MPG), could this be related? 5) Since the leak isn't bad, should we just drive it and take our chances? We will be moving (away from my friend) in a few weeks. Ok, I know that's a long post, I guess I would rather give too much info than not enough. Thanks for any and all help!!

Thanks Nipper, Subarus definitely are a little bit different of a beast. Well, after driving it for a day I would say it is about 90-95% better! Every so often we get a little shudder, but nothing major. I'll keep an eye on it for the next month (well... as long as I have the car ). But I'm very pleased and will probably leave it the way it is, assuming it doesn't get worse. If it does, I may try flushing it a second time (as someone else has previously recommended).

Rear differential fluidS, plural? You mean just the one rear differential correct? Before posting I had already tried changing the rear differential fluid, but to no avail...

Great news everyone! I got the tranny flushed and it looks like after my initial "test drive" that the problem is SIGNIFICANTLY BETTER. So the dealer quoted me $1000-1300. My costs: $380 for new tires $87 for tranny flush TOTAL COST: $460-470 TOTAL SAVINGS: up to $830!!! Thanks everyone for your help and for saving my family literally hundreds of dollars. I had asked two mechanics who I really trust about this, and they didn't know what to do (neither had much subaru experience). Hopefully that's the end of it!

After looking over NorthWet's post again, I guess that answers my question in the affirmative... Let me know if I'm wrong. By the way, NorthWet, great explanation, you seem to really know your stuff.

Well, I had the four tires replaced. It may have helped a bit, but it definitely didn't solve the problem. But, just like you guys are saying, I figured that it needed to be done anyways to protect the system from further damage. The front and back tires were different brands; the front tires also were nearly new and rear tires at about mid-life or a little worse. So it needed to be done, but I'll be heading off today to get the tranny flushed/cleaned. I'll post when I find out the results. Thanks for everyone's input. Its great to be able to bounce this around with other people who have had subarus with the same problem. Also, just to make sure I'm understanding everyone correctly, the clutch packs that need to be replaced are in the automatic transmission housing (NOT the rear differential), even though it is the rear wheels that are binding?

Wow, thanks for posting that service bulletin. I had heard about that, but figured if the tires were the same manufacturer & basic size it would be good enough. I know the front tires and rear tires are different manufacturers, could that matter? Or is it simply the "matching" tires (i.e. rear tires) that need to be the same manufacturer. Jim

Very interesting. It really sounds like I should probably just go ahead and get it fixed right sooner rather than later. I might go ahead and get the tranny fluid changed, if that doesn't do it, I'll be heading to the dealer real soon. Thanks for your help, folks. If anyone else has any thoughts or anything to add, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks a bunch, Jim Another thought, when I had my mechanic check out the car before I bought it, he thought the original tranny fluid may still be in there... all the more reason to get it changed, and prehaps part of the culprit of the problem.

6 weeks ago we bought a 1996 Legacy LS wagon w/ 186,000 miles on it. When we bought it, it had the AWD disabled (by inserting the fuse in the eng. compartment). After I learned about the fuse, I removed it, and we have driven it quite a bit in the AWD mode. We have noticed a definite "shudder" or binding when turning at slow speeds. The dealer explained that the rear/center differential needs to be fixed at $1000-1300. Three questions: 1) Can we simply leave the FWD engaged (by re-inserting the circuit breaker) until we have money to make the repair? Or will that cause other damage over a long period of time? 2) Either way, does it cause any additional complications by waiting to fix this? Or can I simply wait till it totally goes out? 3) What exactly is the problem, and how much show I expect to pay at a competent, non-dealer shop? Thanks! Jim