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JStamberg

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About JStamberg

  • Birthday 01/28/1981

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  • Website URL
    http://www.iowacfi.com

Profile Information

  • Location
    Cedar Falls
  • Ezboard Name
    ??
  • Vehicles
    96 Legacy LS 2.2L 4EAT

JStamberg's Achievements

Advanced Member

Advanced Member (3/11)

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  1. I have this problem, getting ready to go check and see if it is the loose nut or worse.... if it is stripped, what is the best place to start with fixing it? New wiper arm from junk yard? New part altogether? What exactly is the part I should be looking for? Thanks! You guys rock as always!
  2. I noticed... I thought about doing a jig like the banana there, but I refrained.
  3. The rest of the story: While trying to replace the fuel filter, the lower fitting got jammed. I didn't have the time or tools to fix it right, so my dad brought it back into the shop. They fixed the fuel filter, and they had major problems with the lurching, etc. They did some snooping around, and, if I understood them correctly, one of the plugs into the ECU was partially disconnected. It drives fine now, and they charged us a very reasonable amount of labor for the whole repair... so I have no reason to second-guess the validity. Who would have guessed?
  4. No codes, the idle seems normal. The mileage seems a little low (if I remember right, it was 24, mostly highway). Thanks for the tips guys, that'll keep me busy for a while.
  5. Howdy folks, I haven't posted this question on any Toyota forums yet... I trust you guys and I'm curious to see what ideas you might have first. My dad's car: 1998 Toyota Camry LE (4 cyl, auto trans), 122,000 miles. He recently purchased it from a co-worker. My mom is the primary one who drives it, but only uses it a few times a week, for pretty short distances. While visiting my parents in Iowa my wife and I drove this car, and discovered it has a goofy lurch. Typical situation: Sitting at a stop light/sign, push on accelerator, then the car hesitates and lurches. This doesn't happen every time, but it is often enough (maybe 25% or more of the time) that it is a concern. It only happens from a stop (i.e. at very low speeds). The engine has actually quit on a couple of these situations. I've changed the plugs and wires, and I have a new fuel filter, but I have not installed it yet. Any other ideas of things to check? Thanks!
  6. So simply look at the bone yard for 4 outback struts? No shock mounts or anything like that? I am correct to assume that any 96-99 legacy outback would work? any other models or years that I should check for?
  7. I know after reading over many posts on lifting that this subject has been beat into the ground. But I wanted a bit of taylored advice, so here goes! My family will soon be moving to a small village in "bush" Alaska. I'm considering taking our 96 Legacy LS (2.2 4EAT)... this may be stupid considering it has 200,000+ miles on it (and the car will have to be shipped out there), but I'm beginning to feel comfortable enough with the car that if stuff breaks, I wouldn't mind working on it. The village (about 600 people) we're going to is flat, and does have some paved roads (10-15 miles), but it is a lot of dirt roads, and a lot of snow in the winter. One of my major concerns with bringing the stock legacy to AK, however, is that it may be too low for heavy snow. I'm not planning on doing any offroading, I just don't want to be a snowplow either. Any thoughts on a simple, cost-effective way to gain an effective amount of height out of it? From reading it looks like simply buying the KYB GR-2 Outback struts (same year??) may do the trick. Should I buy new or just grab some from a junk yard? Will I need anything else? Springs, etc? Or just buy the four new struts? Would it be advisable to buy some bigger tires as well? Currently I'm running 195/60R15. Any thoughts on what tire size to bump up to without having to change wheels? Or could even buying some bigger tires give me the height I need? Thanks for the input. Sorry to retread old ground. If you think I'm nuts to be considering even bringing a car with this many miles to western Alaska, you can mention that, too.
  8. Yesterday I tried the carb cleaner as suggested.... I sprayed it all over the hoses and connections, but I didn't notice any changes. Then I sprayed the heck out of the MAF sensor one last time with the MAF cleaner. Lastly, I used Seafoam Deep Creep on the throttle body (just because I already was messing around with the intake hose). I drove it hard for about 20 minutes... came home, checked the air flow again... now its between 2.3 grams/second and 2.5 grams per second. So quite a ways below the 4-7 g/s the book recommends. My question is this: is there some way that I will hurt the car by not changing out the sensor? I.e. what are the consequences of the sensor reading such a low air flow rate? Or is it worth it just to go ahead and replace it with a used one (which I have an offer for), and be done with it? One last curiousty question.... totally unrelated... what is the purpose of the curved plastic black piece located between the air filter and the front right headlight? Mine is not really connected, and I just want to rip it out, but I hate to do that not knowing what the heck it does. Thanks!
  9. Mostly just wondering. As I mentioned at the beginning of my post, the MPG has been a little low (not terrible, just lower than expected), and I have had overheating issues in the past. Just finished installing the new knock sensor and taking it around for a spin. Nice and easy job....
  10. That's the conclusion I came to after reading some of the other threads... However, it still doesn't explain the low airflow rate. Here's a bit more info on my timing from the sensors: stays at 20 degrees while idling. It topped out around 50 degrees while on the highway (just for a moment). In city traffic it stayed mostly between 34-46 degrees. These are all numbers from today, so the knock sensor unplugged shouldn't be effecting things at all. The Airflow rate was from today as well (after plugging the knock sensor back in yesterday). Porcupine, I definitely noticed reduced fuel economy and power while the knock sensor was unplugged. Fuel economy got down to 15 MPG. Ouch! Nice to know the car was designed to protect itself from major damage.
  11. Well.... that's the embarassing part.... :-\ It was P0325... faulty knock sensor circuit. I ordered the part last week ($52+$15 S/H); it arrived today. Yesterday I was taking a quick look at the knock sensor to see what all was involved, and I noticed that the knock sensor was not plugged in completely. Obviously when I reset the code, it stays off now. So now I have a new knock sensor, but it appears I may have wasted my money... It seems weird to me that it was unplugged. I had fooled with it several weeks before (after reading the knock sensor threads), just to check it out, but didn't see anything obviously wrong. I plugged it back in, but maybe it wasn't connected completely. After several weeks of driving it must have loosened up just enough to start setting off the code. I guess I win the bonehead award for not double checking the obvious thing before ordering the part. From reading other threads, I guess the knock sensor can be starting to fail without setting off the light, so I'm contemplating changing it out anyways. The company I ordered it from will charge a 20% restocking fee... plus I have to foot the shipping bill (both ways). I figure by the time all that happens, I'm better off just throwing it in my car. The car has 205,000 miles on it, so its probably about due. Of course, I'm always open to other ideas/advice.
  12. Yup, it works well... There is commercial software out there, but I found a nice combination of freeware/GNU software. Specifically: "scantool.net", "wOBD" ("obd2crazy"), and "OBD II Logger." Between these 3, I pretty much have most of what the commercial stuff offers. They're all super easy to use. Thanks for the info on the carb cleaner, I'll hop out and get some. Good thoughts to on not buying a new MAF sensor.
  13. I went ahead and tried using the MAF sensor cleaner (pretty much the same thing as carb cleaner.... but gentler, right? still flamable...), but didn't get any surges/increases in RPM. Would replacing the sensor/reed be the next step? Any other way to test it and make sure that's the problem?
  14. I don't have any carb cleaner handy.... could I use the MAF sensor cleaner I recently purchased?
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