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hancho3

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Posts posted by hancho3

  1. Closure detail beacuse I work a service desk type job:

     

    I started my car with the hood open, and could immediately hear the snapping sound of arcing electricity. 3 cylinders were misfiring beacuse they were all arcing on the #3 wire. Probably not good :wacko: After replacing all the spark plug wires, the car started running like a champ. Totally stoked that it was only the wires. I purchased non OEM wires (linked above), which I know you guys frown upon, but they seem to work (mostly).

     

    3 resons why I regret not buying OEM:

    • The boot is standing a good 1/8-3/16 from actually sealing on the valve cover.
    • The wires didn't seem to snap on to the plug as well as the OEM wires did either.
    • The plug wires aren't numbered (no big deal, but hey why not?)

     

    Anyways, problem solved! Thanks!

  2. Well, because of my need to get on the road, and it being sunday, I went with the only ones they had at my local auto parts store. Here they are: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/IDW0/40475/02815.oap?year=2006&make=Subaru&model=Outback&vi=1432741&ck=Search_plug+wire_02815_1432741_3689&keyword=plug+wire&pt=02815&ppt=C0334

     

    I guess I will replace them again with OEM if need be. The cap that covers the hole in the valve cover doesn't seem to fit snug, nor did the wire end snap on to the plug as noticibly.

     

    I got 2 done, and started it, and it was already running better. Gonna go hit the other 2 now.

  3. Hello there,

    My Outback started running a little rough, and the check engine light would periodically come on (which also made the cruise control not work, and the cruise light to flash). Sometimes I would be driving down the freeway with the cruise on, and I hit a small bump, which made the check engine light come on and the cruise to stop working. I took it to the auto parts store about a month ago, and there was only one misfire (I thought it was #3, but I could be mistaken. It recently got worse, so again, I took it to the auto parts store to do a code scan, it came up with P0301, P0302, and P0304 which is misfire in cylinders 1,2, and 4. It's probably worth mention that my Subaru is past due for it's 60K Service.

     

    I also just changed the plugs, with identical NGK's which made no difference whatsoever. I did some browsing, and it seems there are a few common culprits: Ignition wires, Coil, Timing belt?

     

    I am going to try running the engine in the dark to see if I can see any sparks on the ignition componets, once I get that knocked out, I will update.
     

    Any suggestions, or ideas will be recieved with much grattitude!

     

    Thanks!

     

    Edit: Sparks observed by the wire boot on the coil side. I am gonna go pick up some plug wires and dielectric grase, and see what happens.

  4. 1981 GL BRAT Blue EA-81

    I need.....

    Winshield and Gasket

    Tube Bumpers Front and Back

    Front Skid PLate

    Front Turn Signal Lenses (Both Sides)

    Hood Prop Rod, and retainer clip and gromet (where is connects to body)

    Drivers Side Fender (any color will suit me)

    Blue Dash (I know....not gonna happen, thats why its called a wish list)

    Front Air Dam (between fenders, behind bumper)

    Shifter seal dealy (to make shifter rattle go away)

    Original Jack and Lugnut wrench

    Rebuildable EA-81

    One jump seat (just the seat off the frame to replace seat with broken handle)

    High Top Canopy

    Edit : A set of non bent control arms.

  5. Does anybody know of a good reputable machine shope that I can bring my EA81 to for a complete rebuild? I live in the Olympia, WA area, but would travel an hour or two as long as the shop knows subarus. I think i've heard that there is a decent shop somewhere in Puyallup along river road. Also, does anybody know if there are rebuild parts available for a 4spd D/R trans? While ive got my motor out, I may as well try to get my tranny to hold gear oil.

     

    thanks,

     

    -Kurt

  6. Hey guys....I've had my subaru on the back burner for a while and have been a stranger around these parts, so I figured I would re-introduce myself. Hi, My name is Kurt. I have an '81 GL BRAT EA81 that I am working on fixin up. I have been driving a 2000 Toyota Corolla which just got totaled (but still driveable) on the 22nd During what us Western-Northwesterners call a "Snow Storm" So now, I am thinking of using the insurance money to put a good running EA-81 into my BRAT. I guess that's all for my re-introduction and I hope to hear from some of you guys.

     

    Happy Thanksgiving!

     

    -Kurt

  7. I am in the process of replacing my clucth amongst several other things on my '81 Brat GL EA81 with a 4 speed dual range tranny. When I pulled off the clutch fork the throw out bearing it came right off of the clips that hold it to the clutch fork. So my question is does anybody know how these clips go:

    007.JPG

    the only way they seem to fit doesn't seem like a very good connection like this:

    005.JPG

    another view:

    006.JPG

    the money shot:

    002-2.JPG

    I know its kind blurry but its the best I could get for the time being, those clips have a bent part that goes through a small hole on the fork. It seems like they should grab the bearing a bit better.

     

    any help is appreciated

    thanks,

    -Kurt

  8. It looks like that was the stock position, considering the bracket sitting there.

    I think that under the hood would be easier for wiring if the wiring is

    present in that location.

    If its not, then I would just stick with the current location.

    And if you want the pump I got, O'reily's might have it (They bought CSK

    automotive.)

    It was like 50 or so dollars, I might have posted the price in my original post.

    Best of luck to ya!

     

    Twitch

     

    So any aftermarket pump will work? even with the wiring with the safety deal from the distributor?

     

    thanks,

    Kurt

  9. Does that mean that this is in the wrong place in my '81 Brat? Its not original is it?

    Here is a link to the pic

     

    I have a tankfull of bad gas and i hoped I could turn the key on and put the other end of the fuel line in a gas can but it seems there is no power to the pump. If I were to get a replacement would it be better to mount it where that one is, or put it under the hood where wiring would be easier :grin:

     

    thanks,

    Kurt

  10. I have an 81 Brat Gl ea81, and it seems the only way to get juice to the ignition coil is to jump a hot wire from the +bat to the +coil. When I do this the dash warning lights and chime come on. When I use the ignition switch without hot wiring the only thing that works is the starter. I would really love to make it work with the key switch. Any Ideas? BTW I have yanked all of the weird emmisions stuff and put on an ea82 manifold with a weber. and I believe it had california emmisions as well so maybe there is something weird going on with the harness?

     

    thanks,

    -Kurt '81 Brat GL

  11. Im in the middle of a ea82 manifold w/ weber swap to an ea81, now with the carb sitting on top with it all bolted together it seems that the choke is in the way of the distributor. anybody know of any way aroud this? I think i read something about putting the carb on backwards and flipping the throttle bracket upside down, but if I do that it hits the manifold. Maybe a carb spacer will do?

    Here are some pics:

    http://picasaweb.google.com/KurtAbersold/Subaru?feat=directlink

     

    thanks,

    -Kurt

    81 Brat GL

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