BSOD2600

I've owned the car for a year now after the 5MT swap. The past week is the first time I've EVER had the ABS light come on. I've had the ABS system engage many times, both on dry/wet/snow under heavy braking; so I'm fairly sure it's just fine. Now I know how to read the ABS codes, I'll be doing that each time the abs light turns on. Once there isn't any snow on the ground, I'll more closely check the ABS sensors on each wheel, check for rust, etc.

ericem: I took the car to les schwab and had them look over stuff briefly. The tech in the Alignment center it all looks fine. I'll consider playing around with it more when there isn't any snow on the ground. porcupine73: Interesting, since mine is a 94 AWD TW (which of course was originally 4EAT before I switched to 5MT). Skip: It's the red wire. Either I didn't make a good ground connection or something. But it only would enter diagnostic mode every other time I turned the key to ON. Between Les Schwab and another subaru shop I called (Smart-Service), they both think everything is probably alright and it's just the computer freaking out. The excessive slipping in the front/rear throws it off.

thanks! I got it! It WAS that abs check connector in the kick panel. Forget if I had originally only turned the ignition to ACC instead of ON. Anyways the three codes it threw were: 24 - Left Front Sensor (Short), 26 - Right Rear Sensor (Short), 29 - Tone Wheel. I'll clear them out and see what comes back.

I realize if the abs light isn't on, it's functional. Problem is that with all this snow, the light some time DOES turn on and thusly no more ABS. I want ABS on snow. After more research, I believe I've got the newer ABS-2E system. That means there is no LED on my ABS unit. Instead, I have to enter abs diagnostic mode by grounding a wire to the "L terminal" of some connector... and then my ABS light should flash. Supposedly it has long term memory too and will keep 3 codes (where as the rest of the early legacy models don't keep any at all). Well I found a 2-pin connector near my fuses: I tried grounding each one to the body while having the ignition on / run. Neither resulted in any flashing codes. So not entirely sure if I've got the correct connector or if I'm doing something else wrong.

First off, search seems broken since it can't find anything with "abs". On my 94 TW, the ABS light on the dash has come on several times in the past few days. We've gotten a lot of snow here, so I REALLY want my ABS functional. Turning the car off and on again, clears the ABS memory and often it'll work fine again -- for a while. My tires are within ~2 lbs of each other, even though they look low due to the cold. This is the first time I've had issues with the ABS, so I'm fairly sure it's some how related to all the snow. I know the ABS module is under the passenger seat and how to read the LED codes. The problem is, I just can't see the LED on mine at all when looking in the carpet hole. Mine is part number 26720AA210, which doesn't even show up in the stock 90-94 part catalog. Anyone know exactly what year/model it's from? Anyways, where EXACTLY is the LED on the ABS module, relative to its part number sticker?

When I changed the fuel filter on my 94 TW, I unplugged the harness from the fuel pump (easily accessible from under the carpet in the back) and ran the car until it died (a second). Opened the gas cap. Barely was any fuel pressure in the system and a minimal amount squirted out. Quick and painless replacement.

I've always wondered about those non-functional hood scoops on N/A cars. Whats the deal with those anyways?

I've got a 94 TW as my daily driver. The brother is thinking about buying a 98 GT, 62K miles, 5-speed. We're test driving it this weekend. Yes, I know about the dohc 2.5L headgasket issue. Figure he's got ~40K miles before it needs replacing, right (unless there are obvious signs of leaking in the creamy oil or hydrocarbins in the coolant)? Check for torque bind, struts, warped brakes, clutch play / noises, fluid leaks, etc. What are the known problems with this year of Subaru?

Had a friend take pics of most cars during the rally: http://cab218.aisites.com/

Well I bled the clutch and no air came out, so it must be something else.

It's suppose to be wired so it thinks it's always in neutral: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=18370

My tranny fluid is red and I've got a 5MT.

My 94 wagon had a JDM 4.11 5MT swapped into in ~2 months ago. The rest of the parts were off another SS. Anyways today I parked on a steep hill, with the car facing up it. Several hours later, I got in and drove off. The first stop sign I came to (~200ft away from where the car was parked), the clutch pedal stuck to the floor. I pulled it and it popped back. After that happened, I can tell the clutch feels softer -- its easier to depress. Additionally, the clutch engages a LOT later now. I don't think the clutch is slipping, since when driving up a hill it seemed to be ok. The clutch's master cylinder is full of fluid are there are no leaks from the hoses. Is this a sign of air in the clutch master cylinder or the the master cylinder going out? If the cylinder IS going out, any reason to upgrade it to a WRX one?

You forgot about sales tax ;-). I got a full set of new KYB GR-2's for $200 from a Subaru guy online. I decided to install them myself and it took me ~3 hours. Took it down to Les Schwab for an alignment and other minor things they found for ~$120. I initially was just going to try and get a shop to install the KYB's but most wouldn't. Those that would, were quoting me an additional $550-700.

I know. I'm a Washington resident who is only going to college in Oregon. I have. All stations do the same thing.

When I fill the car up with gas when its low, the first several minutes of filling, the fuel pump handle releases like it thinks the tank is full. I'm guessing this is because of fumes escaping from the tank, which causes this? Anyways, this generally wouldn't be that big of a problem, but since I'm living in Oregon atm, the state stupidly makes it illegal to pump your own. That means, some moron pumps it for me. They typically start it and then walk away -- only to have the fuel pump stop a few seconds later. This goes on for several minutes, annoying me (for having to wait even longer for something so simple) and I'm sure the attendant. Is there anything I should check to possibly fix this?

Yea, it's a time intensive task but easy. I did it a few months ago when replacing the speedo cable in my 94 wagon.

Update: Well, I *finally* got my car back. ************ing 3 weeks without it sucked rump roast. I wasn't about to have the old shop (Babcocks Garage) tear into the wiring harness, so I had it towed to Harleys Auto Repair last Tuesday. Word of advice for any one Googling -- Stay away from Babcocks with your Subaru! Harley's immediately diagnosed that timing was off. Apparently the belt jumped. Took them 4 business days, but eventually they got it fixed. They replaced the hydraulic belt tensioner ($175), put on a timing belt kit (Napa #2522540 @ $335), and labor $273 for a grand ************ing total of $786! I really hope this is the last major thing that goes wrong with this car.

More info. Called back the garage to get the price. He said it would be $70, even though his mechanic has spent ~6 hours diagnosing it. Said the next step is spendy, which would entail taking wiring harness apart and looking for problems. Said the mechanic already traced all the wires from the ECU (if that was the case, he should've found a problem, I'd thought? Forgot to ask). Called up the local subaru dealer and they charge a flat fee of $74 for diagnosis. The guy I talked to, wasn't sure if my MT swap would cause any problems -- after talking to his manager, they won't work on it. *sigh* guess I'm stuck with the current garage to work on it.

I have with no decent responses. Two people at school recommended the shop the car is currently at. Personally, I'm not impressed by the management or their competence level. Don't plan on going back to the shop... yet on the otherhand, my car doesn't run and I don't know anyone else (except the subaru dealer) thats good in this podunk town.

Alright, so the shop STILL hasn't fixed my car. Biking to/from school in sub-freezing temps sucks rump roast. Anyways, talked to them last friday and they wanted me to stop by their shop to show me whats going on (conversely, last week when I dropped off the ECU, they wouldn't let me in the bay). The mechanic showed/told me a few things this morning: 1) The knock and crank sensor wires were frayed/almost falling apart. He taped/fixed those 2) Injectors 1 & 3 are not getting any pulse from the ECU. 3) There is continuity from the injectors to the ECU connector. 4) The starter voltage is weak. 5) Injectors 2 & 4 work, but one is 'pulsing fast'. He hasn't tried using the ECU I gave him yet. Not sure if he's afraid he's going to fry it or what. He also made a comment that he's not sure the existing ECU is dead, because of these electrical problems. But from what it sounds like, he's basically stumped on what to do next. When I tried talking to the shop manager about what type of costs I was looking at already for what the mechanic is done, he wouldn't tell me. Said to call him back this afternoon and that working further on the car would be, "considerable costs". It's been two weeks with out having a car and I want it back! I'm leary of having the car towed to the local subaru dealership for them to work on it, because of the increased costs... but it sound like it might be my only option. Suggestions on what to do?

I'm looking for references to a decent shop in Southern Oregon, specifically Klamath Falls. Currently, my car has been at this one shop for almost 2 weeks now, and they still haven't fixed the problem. Basically they can't track down an electrical short. Anyways, in the future if I ever have any problems, I'd like to take it to a decent place. Suggestions?

Since my car no longer has an TCU from the 5MT conversion, your statement still applies?

Two days ago, I drove my car (94 turbo legacy) from home to school. As I was hunting around in the parking lot for a space, the engine suddenly died. I tried to restart, but it wouldn't catch. I could hear the starting engaging and it sounded like it was close to catching, but never would. Got it towed to a local mechanic 2 days ago in the afternoon. Yesterday, the mechanic finally calls back and tells me my ECM needs to be replaced. Apparently only half of my injectors are firing, because the ground for them is not pulsing. He also found that the front O2 sensor wire going into the ECM was cut in the ECM (which would explain my semi-poor in-town gas mileage -- why not codes though? I had pulled codes myself 2 weeks ago didn't get O2). He also said there are a lot of bare wires under the dash, which probably caused it (I didn't do that). I asked if they had checked the timing belt, and he had (thinking maybe it jumped). The mechanic said a new ECM is ~$600 -- but Subaru doesn't sell them anymore. I found a user on legacycentral who can get me a used one cheap (thankfully!) I recently had the car swapped from a 4EAT to 5MT too about a month ago. Talking with a subaru friend, he was saying that he's never had an ECU just plain short itself out. Typically its because someone is messing around with wires with the battery connected -- and even still, the one he had die still worked. Currently, I've got the replacement ECU going to arrive here via USPS priority mail. The mechanic said it'll be around $150 to fix the wiring. This story all sound plausible?

Yes, there has been yellow crap on my oil cap. Yes, the car overheated a few months ago and I replaced the thermostat. Hasn't overheated since. No billowing white smoke from the exhaust. Yes, when the car has been sitting for a few days there will be a little bluish smoke from the exhaust. No, a leakdown test was not done since the mechanic doing it does not have that. When he pulled the engine today, he found something interesting though. If the engine truly is from a '91, then this car was sold to me under false pretenses FROM A DEALER IN TACOMA. The Odometer Disclosure law of Washington would've been violated. If thats the case, this whole thing could actually hold up in small claims court. I'll wait till tomorrow when more information has been found out.