KMR

Well, I was able to get the right throwout bearing from the dealer today, and the replacement metal plate, put things together tonight and it went very well. For the most part every thing was remarkably easy, it was evident that Subaru had thought through all the steps before I did. Getting the trany fit back on the bellhousing was a bit finicky. I found that a small ratchet strap from the top trany hanger to the front engine hook really helped to keep the top and bottom advancing at the same pace. That and I finally remembered that I needed to rotate the trany a bit to get the splines to line up, it just wouldn't slide in that last bit.............hummmm. So far I like the hill stop disconnected, I like the feel of free rolling. I think I will put a spring on the mount so the clutch fork has a return spring again, as it sits now the clutch engagement is a bit far up on the pedal. Thanks for all the help and info, here and in other threads. Hopefully some other newbie will find this information useful as well. Kevin R.

I read some threads on here about that, but I could not figure out what part it was. I went ahead and pulled the plastic cover off and re-RTVed it. Since I did not want to make another trip to the dealer. After I did that, I discovered that exedy sent me the wrong throughout bearing, dealer is closed today, no auto parts store around here has one, I hope the dealer has the right one in stock or else I am screwed, and I will check to see if they have an aluminum cover at the same time. One part that would be a good idea to have on hand for a clutch job is the exhaust gaskets where the flange meets the manifold. I did not see that mentioned in other threads.

I hope it is RTVable, the dealer is an hour away, hate to have to run there for an O-ring. Since the rear main does not apear to be leaking, should I replace it anyway? I am inclined to do so.

Oh, and does anyone know the torque specs for the flywheel bolts?

It was just really corroded, with a combination of the suggestions here and from searching other threads I was able to get them apart. I took some screw drivers, pen-oil and kind of levering the two halfs at the split to get them apart, thanks! Now the next question, What is leaking here and how do I fix it? I bought a rear main seal beforehand but it does not look like that is what was leaking.

Well, I pulled everything I can find and the trany will not budge from the engine. Am I missing something? Or has the corrosion glued everything together, those two steel pins are not looking very friendly right now.

Ok, I went back out and pulled the speedo cable, there was no spring clip, I think it may be an aftermarket one. Disconnected that barbell thingy, the rear trany support and everything else I could find. My question now is: are the two long bolts at the top of the bell housing (one of which is the starter bolt) and the two nuts on the bottom the only thing that holds the trany on? I pulled all that stuff and wanted to make sure I was not missing anything before I started prying on it.

Thanks for taking the time to help out! Nipper, you really think it makes the clutch last longer? I am sure it is out of adjustment but it seems that no matter what, when you first start, you would be dragging on the brakes. Just doesn't feel right. But I obviously have no idea what I am talking about, and the unavailability of a service manual for this car makes it had to edumacate myself.

Hello all, Working on replacing the clutch on our 93 Impreza. So far it has been going great, Subaru definitely made these cars to be worked on. I would really appreciate if you guys could answer a few simple newbie questions for me. 1st. Is this the hill stop thingy? Can I just leave it disconnected? I do not like it. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4492&stc=1&d=1166308178 2nd If I disconnect this barbell thing can I use that bracket as a lift point to lower the transmission out of the car? (I have a lift and a hoist) Or is that silly? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4493&stc=1&d=1166308283 3rd Is this the speedo cable? If I unscrew the plastic nut/plug that is under the rubber boot can I just pull it out? I tried and It did not seem to want to move. Thanks! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4494&stc=1&d=1166308371

Oh crap, I just checked and somewhere in there I got mixed up as to what forum I was supposed to be in. Sorry again, I am on another automotive forum where I am much more knowledgeable and I can never understand how people can make silly mistakes like the one I just made.

Sorry for the mistake, you guys have been more than helpful and all the information I have needed has been fairly generic so far (cv joint changing, where to get parts and the like) So I don't think I have gotten any misinformation Before we switched from ".net" to ".org" I seem to remember a definition of "older generation" as being pre late 90s. So I stuck with it. Should I ask the Mods to move this thread to the other forum?

Every other clutch that I have done has been straight forward, pull the trany, just makes sense. I was just worried that I was missing something since everyone seemed to favor pulling the engine. I think I will go with the trany, pull it right out, make sure the new rear main is in perfectly (OEM part? or auto store part?) and lift the trany back in to place. What is the weight of an impreza transmission? I was planning on putting a normal transmission jack on a sturdy rolling cart and basically lifting the car off of the transmission. Thanks, Kevin R.

Timing belt as well??

Wow, I really like the "similar threads" tool at the bottom of the page, there are a few in there that search did not turn up. So anyway, I really appreciate your willingness to rehash this topic. Since the availability of a lift comes into play my situation is a bit different than those covered in most of the other threads and I appreciate your opinions. I know I will need to do the rear main (actively leaking) but that can easily be done with the motor in place I suppose the timing belt should probably be done (doubt it has ever been done) and I imagine that could be quite a pain with the engine in the car.

Ooooohhhhh, good point. crap I should really do those things, especially the rear main. Should I get that from the dealer? I always have had bad luck with aftermarket gaskets on other vehicles.

Well, after my USMB guided success with CV joint replacement it is time to attack the clutch. I have read as many threads as I could find about the job and it seems that most opt to pull the motor out. Is this simply because it is a better approach, or would the use of a lift make dropping the trany easier? I have a 2 post lift, which method do you guys think would be easier? Thanks for all the great info, Kevin R.

Thanks again for the help! Finally got the right parts and replaced both axles (and ball joints for good measure) Despite 13 years in the rust belt, everything came apart relatively easily. Of course, this is the newest car I have ever worked on so that may have skewed my perception a bit. I can not imagine having to do this for the first time without a lift. Thanks, and stay tuned for my clutch thread:D Kevin R.

svxpert & nipper, thank you very much for the info (and the welcome) I was mainly concerned that perhaps the lock nut was setting a bearing preload and therefore needed a specific torque. Good to know I cheated, I like cheating Next up, replacing the clutch :-\ Thanks, Kevin R.

Hello All, New to the forum, been searching for answers but can't seem to find what I am looking for (right in front of my face for sure) 93 Impreza hatchback, Manual, nothing special. Have not done any work on it past the normal oil change and tune up stuff. Axles started clunking around corners so I figured it was time for the classic CV replacement. Got the first side apart just fine, then discovered that the auto store axle shafts have a different spline count, put it all back together with the old parts. First Question: Anyone encounter this spline problem? Will I have to get OEM instead? Second Question: What is the torque for the axle lock nut? Does it need to be torqued with or without weight on it? Third Question: Should I go ahead and replace the ball joint that is attached to the "A" arm and the bottom of the steering knuckle? Is it a common wear item as well? If the castle nut on the bottom is removed does it just pop out? Fourth Question: Where can I get a manual for the car, preferably FSM? I asked at the dealer and they looked at me like I had three heads, and the auto store said they could not get one. One last note, I removed the axle by detaching the tie rod end then removing the ball joint pinch bolt in the steering knuckle, the ball joint dropped out and there was plenty of room to push the axle out of the hub. Anything wrong with this method? It seemed almost to easy. Thank you to any one that can tackle all or part of my overly complicated and long winded first post. Kevin R.