mnwolftrack

Since it's only $10, I bought a bottle of the Lucas "Transmission Fix." I won't get my hopes up, but I can wish. As the old man says in the movie Grumpy Old Men, "you can wish in one hand and cr*p in the other and see which gets filled first." Since I know my own luck though, I'm lining up a few potential used replacements via car-part.com and junkyarddog.com.

Thanks for all the info! I just called a local auto shop, and their book time is only 4.5 hours to swap a transmission. (wow, I say, that is fast). They only wanted $335 to do it. So, I can't imagine that is is really all that hard. I'm just in denial because it's not what I'm used to. Now, my only delimma is whether to pull the engine/trans together or pull just the trans. If anyone could help better describe what that last 1/4" to 1/8" of joining a tranny and engine back together really entails, it would help a lot. I've probably had to deal with worse issues (such as removing the cross over pipe on a Toyota 3.0L V6, or swapping coil packs and wires on a Land River Discovery II, or the upper two tranny to engine block bolts on toyota pickups and 4Runners without body lifts).

Cool. I just filled out the form at junkyarddog. I already got one auto response from some place in Penn, but it just tells me to call them because it's faster.... We'll see what happens! I know of one transmission already pulled at a local salvage yard that I called directly, but I'm thinking their price might be a little high.

Will do. I haven't tried that one yet. About 5 years ago I used to use a "wanted" board similar in concept to what you describe, but I don't think it was junk yard dog. I don't even remember what it was. At the time though, there were very few salvage yards using that board, and there were a few that always responded to everything (with rediculous prices).

Ok thanks. You're saying the model # is in addition to the #TZ102Z2DBA-KF I already posted. I probably didn't look hard enough (because I didn't know where the numbers should be or what they should look like anyway). What does the model # usually look like? I was trying to sort out answers to this question via calling the salvage yards, however, I think they made it more confusing. Each place I called had to look up the transmission depending on if I had a 2.2 or a 2.5, and whether it was a sedan, wagon, GT, or wagon GT. I'm not familiar with the sedans or GT's, but one place told me there was an Outback GT wagon? They didn't seem to know whether there was an actual difference between a transmission behind a 2.2 or a 2.5, which is further confused by my car originally coming with a 2.5 but being changed over to the 2.2 later on in life (before my ownership). To keep things easy, I should try and stick with the two #'s you mentioned.

Thanks for all the info! So the model # is different from what I posted above? Dumb question, but what does SUS mean? I assume it means Subaru Uxxxx Sedan, but wasn't sure. I was seeing "SUS" referred to in car-part.com searches but wasn't sure what it meant there. So, for an identicle match, I need model # TZ102Z2CBA or TZ102Z2DBA. Do I have to worry about gear ratio issues, transfer case differences, etc... with these two model #'s? I've read some posts about people having to swap the rear diff or swap something off the transmission (transfer case or maybe front diff, I don't remember). I didn't quite find an answer how I was supposed to tell if gearing was going to be the same or not.

are you referring if I leave the engine in and only pull the tranny, or are you referring to if I've pulled the engine/tranny out together? I'm used to this happening on other vehicles. Is it difficult to put the studs back in if they've come out? Normally, I just double/nut two nuts together on a stud, put the stud in, then take the two nuts back off (so I can get the manifold back on). Some pointers would be most appreciated. 5 hours for the whole swap, or 5 hours just to pull the engine/trans together? The worst part for me at my level of experience is just finding where all the bolts are that need to be removed for various items, and how to deform my body parts to fit into tight places to get said bolts off (especially for bolts that can't be seen directly). Ideally, I want to go into this project with enough anticipation of those watchouts/tips that it feels like I've already done this kind of job before on this car. I actually have two identicle 1998 OBW's (same color even), so the more I learn, the better, because I like to do my own work.

I do have a cherry picker with a load leveler. I think my garage height is about 8 1/2 feet to the trusses (8' walls on 1 row of concrete block). Do I need to put the front wheels on ramps, or do I not need to worry about getting to too many bolts underneath (driveshafts, axle shafts, cross members, exhaust, wiring)? If I go too high, I'm not sure how much room I'd need with or without ramps or the car jacked up before I'd hit the ceiling with the cherry picker.

I probably don't have quite as many tools, or a car (go cart?) suspended from my ceiling, but I do have enough to get me through most tasks. About the only work I have not done is ripped an auto transmission apart. I've dabbled a little bit in pulling manual transmissions apart, but that was only to replace a couple bearings. I'm definately NOT used to frame-less autos then. I'm used to having to pull radiatiors, pull intake manifolds, and pull much of the engine accessories OFF before pulling an engine mainly because the electrical harnesses do not just unhook from the engine at a convenient plug. 5 hours to pull the engine??? Wow, that's fast! I'm used to a full day (and more) to pull an engine or transmission. I technically do not have a tranny jack, but I have a heavy duty floor jack with a removable base plate that I can fashion another plate if need be, wrap chains around, etc.... Given the Subaru is a lot lower than my '85 Toyota 4x4 with 6" of lift running on 33's, this should be an easier drop if I just drop the tranny. I gather though, because of seating the torque converter, I will want to pull the engine as well to make sure it seats right. What I'm not quite getting is how do you know if it's seated right, that last 1/8 to 1/4 inch? I've man-handled Toyota pickup/4Runner transmissions before. Those are quite frankly fairly light for what they are for 4x4's. If I take the transfer case off, I can easily carry them by myself. The transfer case makes it too long and bulky though.

Well, I tried Landry's in NH and they didn't have anything in stock. I am waiting on a return call from Hanser's, though they told me they don't do much with Subaru.

Hello, I'm in the market for a replacement (used) auto transmission for my 1998 OBW. I did a car-part search and there are several selections depending on manual vs. auto, 2.2 vs. 2.5, AWD vs. FWD, for Legacys/Outbacks. My car originally had a 2.5 and auto, but someone replaced at least the engine with a 2.2. I do not know if the transmission is original, and I do not know if transmissions are identicle between 2.2 and 2.5 and between what years. Either way, I need to get a new transmission and need to know how many transmissions were available and what years are compatible. The ID tag on the top of the existing transmission says TZ102Z2DBA-KF.

Yes, everything else seems fine. But the pump still wines under acceleration even when fully warmed up. It's hard to say how loud it is, but you can easily talk over it when fully warm while driving. When it's really cold, you'd have to speak up a bit to talk (but not yell).

If I pull the engine/transmission together, how long would you estimate a first timer with previous wrenching experience, vs. the time it takes for someone who's done this on Subaru's before (roughly speaking, of course)? I've mainly worked on trucks/SUV's before, and it's always been easier to pull the transmission/transfercase by itself. It would "seem" to be a lot more work to pull the entire engine/transmission assembly.

Oh no, definately not abandoning. People might miss my last question about time to remove transmissions because it doesn't really relate to my original thread title.

Thanks--I figured I better start a new thread regarding the time involved in dropping the transmission. NOT HAPPY!

1998 OBW automatic transmission (serial code TZ102Z2DBA-KF) diagnosed as a noisy front pump in a different thread: How long would it take someone to replace the transmission? I've been wrenching for about 15 years, but mainly on Toyotas. I've pulled engines, transmissions, done clutch jobs, headgaskets, and pretty much pulled every possible nut/bolt off a toyota pickup/4Runner. I've got ramps, a cherry picker, etc.... and a good assortment of wrenches, sockets, stubbies etc.... I do not have a Haynes or Chilton's (except an online version of Chilton's which sucks). This is my first Subaru I'd have to do any major work on, so it doesn't scare me, and I'm rather familiar with more than just a standard oil change.... Any good places to get a transmission? There are plenty advertised on http://www.car-part.com (many in the $400-$600 range). I called a local shop and they said they'd give me a free estimate, but it could be anywhere from $1200 to $3800. I'm not looking for a brand spanking new transmission (or getting ripped off) and don't want to put nearly as much into a transmission as is into the whole car. I'd rather replace it myself with a used one and save $$$.

I should also ask, how long would it take someone to replace the transmission? As I previously mentioned, I've been wrenching for about 15 years, but mainly on Toyotas. I've pulled engines, transmissions, done clutch jobs, headgaskets, and pretty much pulled every possible nut/bolt off a toyota pickup/4Runner. This is my first Subaru I'd have to do any major work on, so it doesn't scare me, and I'm rather familiar with more than just a standard oil change.... Lastly, any good places to get a transmission? There are plenty advertised on http://www.car-part.com (many in the $400-$600 range). I called a local shop and they said they'd give me a free estimate, but it could be anywhere from $1200 to $3800. I'm not looking for a brand spanking new transmission and don't want to put nearly as much into a transmission as is into the whole car. I'd rather replace it myself with a used one and save $$$.

It took about a quart of ATF, but it didn't help at all.... The noise is still very obvious at idle in park when I first start it up (I think we actually got above 0F today). After a minute, the noise goes away, but I can make it happen again by moving the shifter through the gears. The noise changes as the gears change. Eventually, it warms up enough so the noise doesn't happen while parked, and it will only happen once I start moving.... My transmission ID is TZ102Z2DBA-KF. What year transmissions are compatible, and are there multiple types that I need to be aware of (and the compatibility of?)?

Thanks Doctor! So.... what are his chances? What are the chances of the noise going away just by adding fluid? *cringe*

Alright, I checked the fluid level this morning (-5F). I did not have a chance to drive the car around to warm up the transmission/fluid. I moved the car forward/backwards a few feet and moved the shifter through each gear for a few seconds. The level was about 1/4 inch below the low mark on the cold scale. So, the first thing I should do is add some fluid. Also to note, I was able to grab my automobile stethescope long enough for the problem to occur in park as soon as I fired up the engine. The noise IS coming from the transmission. The noise goes away after about 60 seconds of idling in park (the noise will come back if I try to drive it though). This morning, the noise flipped off like a light switch while I was listening to it with the stethescope touching the top of the bellhousing in the engine bay. The fluid looked clean and possibly new, albeit low. I noticed tiny bubbles (and not Wayne Newton) on the transmission dipstick. Cavitation noise perhaps? Merely just low level, or a sign of impending doom? Thanks for your help!

Ok thanks. I tried searching "transmission pump" and "front pump" here while I waited for a response but couldn't find any info. I am also viewing an online Chilton's manual as we speak and the only reference to the transmission is how to remove it and reinstall it. It doesn't mention the internals of the transmission. Does this noise typically go away with a fluid change? I'm starting to wonder if the previous owner flushed all fluids before selling the car to try and make it look like it was cared for. If I flush the tranny, should I try a synthetic and/or additive?

Thanks--can you elaborate on this a little bit (meaning where the front pump is, how it is accessed, etc....). My luck I'll have to drop the tranny to get to it.

oops, forgot that minor detail.... I edited the post to reflect that it is an auto.

Hello, I need some assistance in diagnosing a noise on a '98 OBW automatic I just bought. I *thought* it was an alternator noise becuase I've heard noises similar to this and figured that's what it was. If you've ever started a Toyota when it's -30F degrees and the power steering pump whines, this is a lot like what it sounds. I've had noisy idler pulley bearings on other vehicles, and it is very similar to that. The noise is RPM related, not speed related. It changes pitch and tone with the change in RPM's. Speed doesn't matter, other than the car has to be moving. I misdiagnosed the problem before I bought it and figured I couldn't find the noise while poking around under the hood because the whine warmed up enough to disappear (common with power steering pump whine on Toyotas). The noise does not relate to speed, and it is not a wheel bearing. The noise is not a growl. The noise gets louder the harder I step on the gas while moving. The noise goes away while moving If I let off the gas and coast. If I coast at 55mph or 5mph, the noise is absent. The transmission shifts nice and smooth in all gears up and down, and there is no lag between gears (even when it's below zero here). Thinking it was the alternator, I took the power steering/altnerator belt off, and went up/down my driveway real quick (no power steering), and the noise remained (which canceled my dreams of an easy fix). I was rather shocked. The car originally came with a 2.5 per the underhood tag, but I just noticed the EJ22 stamp on the block when looking down at the engine from above, so someone must have swapped in a 2.2. I also noticed the valve covers and spark plug holes are much easier to get to on this car than on our other '98 OBW that DOES have a 2.5. I bought this car with the noise thinking it was a noisy alternator or other belt pulley, but I'm not so sure now. I am pretty good with cars but rather new with Subarus. Since I'm not super familiar with Subaru's, what are some things I can potentially do to help troubleshoot? Did I just shoot myself in the foot and sign myself up for pulling a tranny? I've pulled engines and transmissions out of other vehicles so it doesn't scare me, but I really wasn't planning on it with this one..... All fluids are clean. Previous owner may have changed them all recently....

I don't see it as a silly question at all . I see it as a flaw with Subaru's. My daily driver is a '96 Toyota Land Cruiser (AWD until I shift into low range). It's set up provides the same results at the wheels in high range, and I've never ever heard of a Land Cruiser suffering from torque bind. I'm rather familiar with Audi Quattro's and Honda AWD CR-V's as well, and I don't recall such an issue with them either. I suppose one issue with the CR-V could be considered "similar" to TB issues with the Subaru's, but it happens in the rear differential. On the CR-V, the rear diff fluid needs to be changed about every 30k. Otherwise, the rear wheels make a nasty noise while the diff engages when hitting the accelerator hard enough on a slippery surface to engage the rear diff. The service manual specifies something like 90K intervals for the rear diff fluids, but a quick search on the Net shows people are doing it much sooner. The '99 CR-V I had, had the binding issue. It's fluid had been changed by the previous owner at around 30k. I bought the CR-V with 89k, and the binding issue was present at that time. I changed the 'dual pump fluid" immediately after purchase and it cured the problem. I'm already quite familiar with the head gasket issue. I looked at a few 2000+ before we bought this '98, and some of them were leaking. But I haven't driven a 2000+ recently and I don't specifically remember the answers to my questions from those brief test drives. On a different note, I received an interesting comment from our local subaru dealer the other week when I bought OEM wires. I asked the counter person about the coolant additive that subaru is using on the 2.5 to "correct" the head gasket issue. He recommended NOT using it because it tends to clog up heater cores and radiators.... I'm sure it's already common knowledge/suspicion that the OEM subaru additive appears to have the same destructive consequences as using other radiator "stop leak" products.