bluebaru

I think this would end in about a minute with one or more of these parts rendered useless: tranny, axles, or drive shaft

good point skip. i had not thought about that really. i think i will try and build some type of a-arm variant.

There are different types of limited slip differentials though if i understand this right. some apply only during acceleration, some apply during acceleration and some times deceleration and some apply during both acceleration and deceleration. i think that most front wheel drive cars that have lsd's have the first type meaning that you shouldnt feel the effects during braking...

thanks for the heads up desertsoob. this is actually going on your old car. I have a fox shock on my mountain bike that works exactly the same way. they make really nice stuff im gonna look into some of those

yeah my car has something like that but not sure if its stock

ya thanks for the link i think its gonna help me some at least as far as imagination goes

if you put a 90 degree turndown on the end you can end them under the car and its not too bad. I drove a 68 galaxie 500 that was set up this way once and it wasnt terrible

"in effect you could fab a mount to where the now upside down diff is able to rotate so that the axles have more flex with the suspension." any ideas as to how you could do this. it seems like if it can move with the suspension then wouldnt it twist under acceleration?

Anybody know where i could pick up a rebuild torsion bar?

yeah. the whole idea is to gain some travel. i thought about the just coils and then some shocks idea but im kinda scared that im gonna like bust the coil out somehow and not be able to get it back in on the trail...

yeah that was the other option but it includes buying expensive long travel coilovers

After considering how to achieve more articulation on the front of my wagon i think i might have a good answer. Im doing the t-case lift and i am planning on essentially building a sub-frame to go under the ea81 body. Could i simply use a torsion bar in the front facing the opposite direction of the rear? i would have to modify it to work with the front knuckle but this would solve the travel issues... no more binding radius rods or wimpy A-arms. this would also solve most of the issues related to mounting the front differential. The only problem i forsee is that the wheel travels in a arc so it would go towards whatever you just hit. Is this a major issue? it would keep larger tires from hitting the firewall under compression though... this is going to be for offroad use only so im not worried about high speed. Maybe you guys could contribute some ideas as to why this would or would not work... thanks Zach

air is definentaly not good for hydraulics because it can compress much easier than an actual hydrualic fluid the hydralics(i guess technically it would be pnuematics) wouldnt do anything the air pressure would just rise in the chamber. thats why they can use air in shocks because it can be compressed and then the pressure provides rebound. the oil that you would find in say an air/oil shock is to provide damping. which slows down the return action of the shock so it keeps your car from feeling like a pogo stick.

i had a loyale that did this exact same thing about 5 miles before it was ready to kill an alternator. dont go anywhere too far till you find a new one. maybe consider getting a larger one if you use extra lights/stereo stuff. i think you can use some GM ones or i have an xt6 alternator in my car. i think the usmr has something about alternator swaps

No lockers and no transfer case. the subaru case is actually in the tranny. i would leave the tranny because the 4eat isnt the best for off-roading but its better than most. also you can wire in a center diff lock switch to make it 50/50 torque split which is nice. the gearing should be ok for a buggy because the car will the lighter and the car already has lower geared diffs than the older subes do. the engine will have the proper power to really turn a larger tire.