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jbain8

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Posts posted by jbain8

  1. Hello everyone, I've been doing some offroading with my D/R buggy and now I feel I want to add a Nissan TCase for gearing and an automatic for crawling. My question is will the 3spd pushbutton single range auto's of the mid to late 80's handle 26in tires and a 1200 pound buggy? Thanks in advance

  2. Great to see someone finally building one of these. I purchased the plans a couple years ago and so far I've only finished the EJ motor/DR Trans and drivetrain. Thought I would integrate the firewall and wiring harness from the donar car to help with the FI wiring, steering and brake issues. In the process of building a house right now so the Buggy is on hold. Great job so far and keep the pics coming.

  3. Thanks guys that is kind of my problem, the same problem everyone has gearing, for some reason I hate the idea of adding a tcase even though it solves most of my problems. But it's big and heavy and I have alot of fab work to do to try and cram it high enough not to hurt my ground clearance. Then I have to lengthen my buggy to accomidate the monster. I was hoping just to get away with a fabricated lower control arms with 720 hubs and some custom axles up front giving my Lock in Lock out Hubs. I was thinking a set of 27 ATV tires would look pretty good.

     

    Jer

  4. I'm building a Buggy which I assume will weigh in about 1500 pounds when complete. I want to run a 29 x 10.50 tire with with a Fuel Injected EA82 engine, 3.90 gears, and a D/R trans. This buggy is strictly for off-road use and will always be trailored. It's purpose is for moderate level trail stuff mostly family stuff with some moderate hill climbing. What I would like to know is if I ignored the high range, locked it in low range and made that my primary drive, what size tire could I run and keep the power roughly the same as if I had stock tire size in High Range. Thanks in advance for any help you can give me, I hope I didn't confuse anyone.

     

    Jer

  5. ok then I think I'm a little confused, but lets try this I have an 95 2.2 wagon with a 5speed that has a bad engine. I have a fully refurbished 2.2 from a 94 wagon sittting on the engine stand needing a home. Can I swap the 94 2.2 block into a 95 wagon. This is only buggy stuff so codes and crap doesn't matter. I would just like to use what I already have to save money. Thanks in advace for any help you can give me.

  6. I don't mean to hijack this but I am also interested in the fabled EJ D/R....I'm in the Navy and will leave soon for a trip around South America hitting all the cool ports in Brazil, Chile, Peru....ect. Since I can look for it myself and shipping is free I'm seriously considering one to put behind my 2.2 in my buggy. What was the gear ratio in these trasmissions? Do they look just like a EA D/R but with a different bellhousing? And what can be done to modify them? Also if I blew a gear can I use parts from a EA D/R or am I stuck? I would love to not have to use a transfer case in my buggy (weight/length) and I want to run at least 29's any suggestions from our friends down under? Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.

  7. Hello all I'm looking for a little help on rims for my 95 legacy buggy. I plan on going with a 29 superswamper on an 8 inch rim with a 1 inch adapter. What I would like to know from the math guys is what is the max offset I can run and still keep from replacing bearings every month or so. Thanks in advance.

  8. Hello all I just purchased a 95 Subaru Legacy Wagon with the 5 speed and I'm a little confused. I plan to use it as my donar for my 2.2 buggy build, I just finished the D/R but I was talking to a guy that says the 5 speed in the 95 wagon is much better for my 1200 pound buggy application that the D/R is. I always assumed the wagon was geared at 3.90 but I was reading some posts here and now I'm not so sure. Can someone give me the low-down on the mid 90's 5speed trans please. I would like to know if it's all gears internally and thoughts on how it would turn 29 inch swampers on a 1200 pound buggy. I already have a D/R painted and ready to go but I still have to buy the adapter get a flywheel drilled and buy a clutch. There is also the speedo uncertainty but if I use the stock 5speed the speedo works and I don't have to buy the stuff to adapt it over. So would the experts give me some insite on this transmission please.

  9. Yea Scott when I get overwhelmed I sometimes revert back to that mindset but like everything else I do it has to be difficult and besides in WV I really need the 4wd. Just today I talked with a fiberglass guy and I'm really considering building a one-off fiberglass body for my buggy even though metal is much easier to work with and 10 times easier to replace when bent. Oh well thanks for the input.

     

    Jer

  10. Thanks for the replies, I may modify my lower control arm to accept a Nissan balljoint and just a tubular racing upper control arm that may help keep the weight down. I really want rear wheel drive without going to a transfer case....I'm trying to keep my buggy under 1200 pounds (if possible). I've also decided to use a Justy for the platform for my build. The dash in those things are only 51 inches wide and since I just finished my D/R today it's time to start on the suspension.

  11. OK guy's just wanted to ask if anyone is running a Lock In/Out hubs on the front of their Sub's. I'm looking at going with a upper and lower control arm from a Nissan 720 with custom axles resplined for a nissan outer axle birdcage. If anyone has tried it and has some background on it I would appreciate any help you can give me.

     

    Jer

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