keppelk
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Posts posted by keppelk
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I had the same thing on an EA82T not long ago. Last bolt to remove the intake manifold the head broke off.
I used a long (6ft) digging bar to 'lift' the manifold while I WD40'd and twisted the 'free' manifold round the remaining bolt. WD40 + twist, repeat until enough rust wears away from the the broken off bolt to free the manifold. Once the manifold is off no drama to remove the remaining bolt.
Have never worked on an XT6 motor so I have no idea if this would work. Can tell you that it worked well for me. I would have needed a trip to an engineering shop if above hadn't worked. Great shop nearby so a shopping trip is dangerous
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XT turbo uses the same under hood edge squirter system. Damn good when it's all setup correctly, but they are all getting old now.
Maybe replace the metal 'tab' they are mounted on with something heavier?
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So I took the FelPro (NOK, same as Subaru OEM) seal out today. Put a 1.5mm hole in it with a drill then used a hook to remove. Seal was in perfect condition (very unhappy when I realised I'd drilled a hole in a perfect new seal).
New Subaru seal wasn't expensive luckily. I installed it with a PVC pipe cap. All went in dead straight this time
. Have it mostly in, but am getting an engineer friend to come and help me line it up. With the 0.3mm maximum out-of-squareness the FSM gives I figure I should get it perfect to avoid leaks. Not hard to be out over a 100mm diameter seal by 0.3mm, which might explain some leaks after replacement (no offense intended).Forgot to mention in my original post that the old seal was leaking a lot. The cover plate between bellhousing and transmission was coated with a thick layer of oil+clutch dust goop.
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I started putting in a new rear main seal today (Fel-pro, but NOK like the Subaru one). Got the old one out no probs, using a self tapping screw and a claw hammer to pull out. Greased the new one, lined it all up and started pushing just with my fingers. Pushed harder and harder with no movement, until it suddenly gave. One side has gone way in, the other side not so much. I've tried gently tapping my way around the seal with a hammer. Then tried using the old seal as a guide, and tapped on that some more. Can seem to get the 'out' side any further in. And can't think of any non-destructive ways to get the 'in' side back out.
Question is should I keep trying to even up the seal by pushing in, or admit that I've cocked up and order a new seal (pull the un-even seal). Any tips much appreciated, as self-taught mechanic and definately still learning.
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@rxleone: there are a fex companies who often have JDM front cuts or engines listed on TradeMe. If you were after an engine, I'd ask a question on an auction and see how you go.
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My 2c: EA82 head gaskets I've seen Subaru OEM and Fel-Pro permatorques. Both seem to hold as well as each other and appear to be similar quality, but since the Fel-Pro is cheaper and doesn't require retorquing I'll use Fel-Pro.
Only gaskets I swear Subaru OEM on are intake manifold gaskets (Fel-pro are just cutout gasket material, where Subaru is a multiple layer metalic gasket), exhaust gaskets (for the same reason), and thermostat gasket (OEM is multi-layer and very different material to the cork or paper aftermarket options).
Having said all of this, if a gasket is installed correctly onto a well prepared surface at the correct torques etc, most should seal adequately. No seals last forever without replacement anyway.
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Resurecting an old thread because I just stumbled across the MPGuino too. Going through the FSM for my '86 Vortex (XT 4-cyl turbo), I found that the trip computer has a speed pulse line. Since turbos are MPFI I have an injector wire too; so have all the inputs I need (tap injector signal #1 as it comes through the firewall en-route to trunk mounted ECU). Can easily tap into power via the stereo harness (+12V constant and ground).
Not sure if there is a speed pulse signal generated in other models without the trip computer? If there is, then no reason you can't use an MPGuino. There is an OBD-II version too, for the younger Subaru.
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EDM = European Domestic Market
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There are a few different versions of the FSM for 80's Subarus about. I think this one http://pdftown.com/Subaru-EA-82-Service-Manual.html will be what you are looking for.
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Awesome how this thread got up to 12 posts before someone spotted 4EAT is electronic! lol
Always good to check out the FSMs to see what should be there, rather than what is there
Looks like there should just be a short length of hose to allow venting without sucking in crud. IMO should cap any vacuum lines and run a short vent hose similar to the factory setup.
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Completely agree with you on all counts. Normal 91 octane (R+M) is US$5.94 per US gallon here already, so change is definitely looking like a good idea.
Fuel millage here
Subaru R2 type S 2wd: 19.4 km/L = 45.63 miles/gallon
Subaru R2 type S awd: 18.6 km/L = 43.75 miles/gallon
This model gets best economy. Higher tech engine. Supercharger engine doesn't get Variable Valve Timing.
Subaru R2 R 2wd (DOHC 16 valve VVT): 24.5 km/L = 57.62 miles/gallon
Subaru R2 R awd (DOHC 16 valve VVT): 22.5 km/L = 52.92 miles/gallon
By my reckoning it looks like it won't take long to pay off the purchase vs my '86 XT turbo auto millage!
Not a huge step in power either (can take small cuts to save wallet:-\):
Lamborghini Diablo 6.0 0.238 kW/kg
Jaguar XKR Coupe 0.137 kW/kg
Subaru Legacy (gen IV EZ30) 0.108 kW/kg
Subaru XT Turbo (auto) 0.072 kW/kg
VW Golf (standard model) 0.063 kW/kg
Subaru R2 type S awd 0.053 kW/kg
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XH3jG-91ZAw
JDM crash test video on Youtube for it. Seems to handle it OK. Gets a high-ish rating too.
Loads of specs at above links. Can click through the menus on the left and it keeps translating them.
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I'm looking at getting a 2003-2004. Ballpark cost landed in NZ is $12,000 - $13,000. But that is for the top model (type S). That link is a pretty low non-supercharged, non-AWD model. Quite steep for that model, but 24000km and looks tidy as.
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Anyone here know anything about the Subaru R2 (or R1)? Ever driven or ridden in one. Thinking about importing one over here (NZ) from Japan.
Would love to get a 660cc supercharger AWD model, which is the type S.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_R2
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this is not necessary. the factory radio is common ground for the speakers
of the wires on the car, you will have 3 for the front speakers and 3 for the rear. each has a left+, right+ and common ground
if you are connecting an aftermarket radio use one ground wire for the front channel and one for the rear. side doesnd matter. simply leave the unused wires disconnected on the back of the radio, dont even need to tape them off(just tuck them out of the way or twist them together
AND THIS FOLKS IS HOW YOU CONNECT A COMMON GROUND
Not sure about all new stereos but my new Sony xplod head stated "DO NOT USE WITH COMMON GROUND SYSTEM. Can cause damage to headunit." I would be double checking in the manual for info re common grounding. Personally I think that its not that much more effort to run another wire. And you can never have to much grounding in an old subaru!
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What are the green connectors. What should they be connected to.
The ECU on XTs, XT6es, Loyales etc have 2 sets of plugs. These are used for diagnostics and also for setting timing.
The ECU on our cars is in the trunk on the underside (between the rear speakers). Have a dig around in the ECU harness and you'll find 2 sets of plugs: green and black. There should be 2 of each, connect them together when directed. Have a search round this site. I'm sure there is a list of how to pull codes from the ECU. Basically you connect the green plugs and then read the flashing of the LED on the ECU. Long flashes are 10s, short flashes are 1s (eg: long-long-long-short-short is 32).
To set the timing you should warm the car up, kill ignition, connect green plugs, restart engine and set timing. Use the marks on the flywheel. If you can't get the timing right chances are the disty is out by a tooth or more, or the timing belts are installed wrong.
Have you been over to www.subaruxt.com/forum ? That is the place that has the most info on the ER27 engine. Good luck getting it sorted.
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90 Loyale, 1.8, non-turbo, 4wd, 270,000 miles
I just finished re-installing the engine from a full gasket set job.
I rationalized my way out of doing a valve job while I had the engine out somehow.
I fired her back up yesterday and wouldn't you know it? An raise the hair on the back of the neck "CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK....." from the cylinder 1-3 side.
I'm assuming a bad lifter (or two, or three, or all) so I plan on doing all four on that side. Yes, just the four on that side. Those things ain't cheap.
Anyway, I understand the basic concept of removing the timing belt, removing the cam, removing the rockers/lifters, inserting the new lifters, etc, etc.
Do I need to prime the new lifters at all?
Any comments/suggestions/lessons learned would be great. Parts arrive Saturday.
Wish me luck. I need to get this 60 mile a day commuter back on the road.
Theres a company in the USA somewhere that rebuilds the HLAs. Mitzpah something. If you have a dig around the forum and find their website they rebuild HLAs cheaply. Even if you don't return yours the core charge isn't very much. I was looking at getting a new set sent to me in NZ.
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I'm in the process of making some fibreglass pipes for a legacy awic on mine.... nothing like making things difficult for yourself ay!
I might have to do some custom fab stuff on mine too. If the compressor housing rotate seals back up well that could be good too. From looking in catalogs here it seem like 1 3/4" inch silicon reducers etc will be hard to get....... I was thinking about getting an exhaust shop to bend me some pipes and weld them onto the WAIC. Now I just need to sort out a mount for the WAIC, and how i'll do the water pipes/pump/wiring. :-\
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I have to agree with Ross there. A recirculating blow off valve still give you the psssssshhhhhh, but instead of dumping all that metered air into the atmosphere (along with all the pressure your turbo put into it) you put it back into the loop pre-turbo. That way the turbo doesn't suffer nearly as much deceleration and is faster to spool to boost in the next gear.
I'm going to have my WAIC inlet and outlet pipes welded with some extensions so I don't need as many joins or silicon. I'll probably get a plate on the outlet pipe to mount a blow off valve with a recirc kit.
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If your looking for an XT6 FSM you can find it at http://mshoup.us/docs/fsm/
Mega-uber-super points to the guys who debound and scanned these in!
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I've found a guy with heaps of possibles. He has a set of RX rear springs but need to know how long they are from tophat to bottom mount to ID them. Anyone know how long RX springs are (installed on the shock)?
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The link for the forum seems to have vanished. But if you type "/forum" after the address it still is all there!!!
:banana: :banana: www.subaruxt.com/forum
:clap: If you get turfed out to that ***** girl site after trying to login, just go up to address bar and swap the old "xt6.net" to "subaruxt.com". Messy but it still works.
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I was looking at mounting the pump to the crossmember under the radiator just to one side of centre (engine bay side). Maybe i'll take the guard off and remove the compressor for the air susp and put it there......
I still have to find some more hose to run the WAIC. I have the legacy stuff but its all the wrong lengths and shapes. Anyone got any idea on where to get that kinda hose? I was thinking I could use hydraulic high temp hose if it was a good price and available in the right internal diameter/length.
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Nope. TradeMe. Now I just have to find a smart place to mount the pump. Also might look into rotating the housing..... Good idea to reduce piping, I mean turbo lag.
Best way to fix CTS connector
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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Injectors and the CTS use the same connector. You can find replacement connectors with pigtails on ebay if you search "bosch EV1". I've used these to replace my CTS and would highly recommend it! The EV1 connectors have a much better retainer clip, and are easier to remove without worrying about breaking the plastic.