dssenne

Thanks for your help Cougar (and everyone else!). I've replaced a few things before like starter, alt., axles, etc. but never got into anything electrical. I was always pretty intimidated by that. But when you look at the schematics and wiring diagrams, it's starting to seam a little less confusing. It's so great that folks on this forum are willing to take the time to help. I always feel great when I fix something my self and think about the money I saved!

Thanks for the info! And I'll check out the classified forum next time. Considering how much they probably cost new, I felt pretty good getting one for $80, but less is always good.

Bought an ECU from AA Autoparts in Little Rock for $80 including shipping. Put it in tonight and now my fan works!

After posting here and talking to my local mechanic, it seemed like the ECU was the only reason left why my main cooling fan didn't work. Bought one and put it in today, and it solved my problem. Paid $80 including shipping, so I'm happy.

They told me that it would work for me, so I went a head and ordered it. We'll see. At least it was only around $80 including shipping.

I'm looking to replace the ECU on my '92 Legacy. It's a FWD wagon. The sticker on the ECU is below: I found one online that has the same number, except that there's an F at the end (22611 AA930). They told me that it came out of a '92 Legacy, but if I get it and it turns out to not be the right one, I'm just out of luck. I've also seen ones that end in AA931. Mine also has the number A18-000RF6, but the ones online generally only list the 10 digit # above. Do you think that the one I found that ends in AA930F will work for me? Thanks!

Thanks to all who responded!

I tried the green connectors, but no response from the fan. Guess I'll see how much a used ECU is.

Do you mean connecting the two black connectors, below and to the left of the steering column? I did, and I got several codes, though none of them seem related to my problem of the fan not working. The codes I got were: 11 - crank sensor 22 - knock sensor 24 - air control valve 33 - speed sensor 35 - canister purge solenoid valve 42 - idle switch When I put the ECU in test mode, the fan didn't turn on. Though when I followed Cougars instructions for grounding the connector for the fan at the ECU, it did turn on.

Well I finally found the ECU. Not easy to get to the right pin (d17). Anyway, when I grounded the pin for the main fan, sure enough the fan turns on. So, what direction does this point me in? Since I made the fan turn on by grounding pin d17, does this mean that the ECU controls the fan by grounding or "un-grounding" it? If that's true, is there some sensor(s) that tells the ECU when to do this? I replaced the water temp sensor, thinking that was it, but that didn't fix it. I replaced the thermostat, in case it was the problem, but no luck with that either. Is there something else in the circuit that tells the ECU to turn the fan on?

The blower fan inside works fine, I meant the AC fan under the hood on the passenger side.

Well, I feel like an idiot! From doing some more google searching, it looks like the last image I posted is the transmission control unit, not the ECU. A post I read said that the ECU is located under the carpet on the passenger side. I'm going to check that out tonight.

Ok, now I'm really confused... The fsm shows the ECU as having four plugs with 22, 12, 16 and 26 pins. It looks like the pin for the m But my ECU only has three plugs with 16, 12 and 20 pins! Since the pins aren't labeled and my ECU doesn't match the schematic, I don't have a clue which pin to check!

Yes, it was the one with two wires. Not the one for the temp. gauge.

Cougar, thanks a lot for taking the time to respond to my posts. I really appreciate it. I do have a fsm so hopefully I'll be able to find the right pins in that. The section on the Radiator Fan shows a connection from the ECU at pin "d17" to FB-14 which says "To Power Supply Routing". When you say "relay coil" are you referring to the relays that I showed in the pictures above?

Yes, I did check the fuses and all are ok. I went back and checked the voltage on the relays (arrows pointing to the terminals) On the first three relays I got 12V but on the 4th (A/C relay?), I go nothing. Don't know if this means anything or not. When you suggest grounding the wire going to the ECU that controls the Main Fan, could you explain how I'd do that? I see the ECU under the dash (gold box), but I'm not sure what I should do.

Sorry, I was quoting Imdew's post #3. He said " If the engine is hot a single fans comes on, if you have the AC on, both fans should come on." Without jumping either the pressure switch or relay #2, the main fan won't turn on. But either way, the sub fan never comes on. If the AC system was not working because of incorrect pressure, could this cause the main fan to not work?

I just went out and tried connecting both the green and black connectors, but nothing changed. Replacing IC's sounds a bit beyond me. I know this would be lame, but since this is an old car with lots of miles and a few other problems (we really only use it around town and as a backup), would it hurt anything if I just jumped the pressure switch so that the fan was on whenever it was running and just lived without AC?

Is the temp gauge getting above the 1/2 way mark? The fans are independent and 2 speed on one or both. If the engine is hot a single fans comes on, if you have the AC on, both fans should come on. Is your AC Charge low? Yes, the gauge does go above 1/2 way. If I switch on the AC, the compressor doesn't kick in and the AC fan doesn't come on. Just using a cheap-o gauge that comes with a can of R134, the pressure was high on the Low port. Shouldn't the main cooling fan work even if the AC doesn't?

Any help would be greatly appreciated! The main cooling fan has stopped working on my '92 legacy. If I jump the Pressure Switch (Trinary) as shown below, the fan WILL come on. If I jump the Main fan relay under the hood (below), the fan will also work. But without jumping either one of these, nothing. I replaced the thermostat and the coolant temperature sensor with no results. The fuses for the fan are not blown. I've swapped out the other three A/C relays into the #2 spot just as a test, but that made no difference The A/C compressor and fan are also not working, but my concern right now is just getting the car to be drivable. It seems like the main fan should be able to work regardless whether the A/C is working or not. Does anyone have any ideas where I should look next? I'm at a loss!

I might try that, but it's actually a semi-circle piece at the end of the inlet missing. While the hose covers it as is now, and it's not leaking, I'm concerned about it deteriorating more. Peace of mind and all.

Time's not so much of an issue. With a coupon it would still be about the same as Radiator Barn. From the description, the "Ready-Rad" @ Advance looks to be basically the same (plastic, 1-row). If this type of radiator is ok, I'll probably go by price, which looks to be Radiator Barn.

Actually Rockauto is a little bit more than Radiator Barn. The cheapest one at Rock Auto is 91.98 including shipping Radiator Barn is 88.34 including shipping. Looks like 2 yr. warranty from Rock Auto vs lifetime from Radiator Barn.

The plasic upper hose throat on my 1999 OBW (Auto.) radiator is cracked, so I'm going to put a new one in. I've checked most of the standard sources and it seems like my choices are pretty much: Aftermarket, plastic & aluminum, one row (from various online suppliers/local parts stores) or OEM (from dealer/online supplier) The best price I've found so far is Radiatorbarn http://radiatorbarn.com/search.php?product=radiator Their price is WAY cheaper than the OEM option. I put one of these in a '92 Legacy a few years ago with no issues so far. I see here where people are getting 2- row, all metal radiators, but whenever I search on the supplier sites, the only option that shows up for my OBW with the auto. is like the one above from Radiatorbarn. Does this (Radiatorbarn link above) seem like an ok way to go?

Well I found the solution to this: I was pressing the small "lock/unlock" toggle switch at the front of the controls. If I lock the door using the lock button that's by the opener on the door - no honking. While I still want to get a couple keyless remotes, this is good till then.