dssenne

My FWD '92 Legacy (auto trans.) recently developed a problem where you can't move the selector lever from "P" to any other position unless you press the shift-lock release button. From what I read it's a problem with the "Shift Lock System", but I can't find anything to do about it. It's doing it pretty much every time now. Until I can figure it out/get help/take it somewhere, can I continue to drive it using the release button, or am I destine to get stranded at the worst possible time? Any ideas how I can fix this? Thanks

Actually Advance Auto Parts has MMO for $3.49, which is cheaper than their least expensive Atf at $3.79. Since it worked so well for me on my Legacy, I think I'll pick up some more for my other cars (and my lawn mower).

My '92 Legacy developed the dreaded "Tick of Death" recently after being run a bit low on oil. At first I thought I'd really screwed something up, but after reading the threads here on tapping noises, I thought I'd try Seafoam. I put a 1/3 in the oil, 1/3 in the gas & 1/3 through a vacuum line. Nothing. Drove about 50 miles, still no difference. Then I changed the oil and used a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. After driving about 5 miles, the tapping just stopped. Now the engine's as quiet if not quieter than it's ever been. I'm really hoping I dodged a bullet, and if so, I've learned the error of my ways.

Thanks, I think I'll pass on this one.

Hi, I'm looking at a 1998 Forester L and would like to get any opinions. The head gaskets/intake/exhaust/valve cover gaskets have been recently replaced as has the timing belt and the camshaft, front crankshaft seals. It has 120K and he's asking $2500. I've read here and elsewhere about Phase 1 HG problems. If I buy this car do I stand a good chance of having continuing HG problems in the future, or does replacement usually take care of it? Should I be especially worried about any other more serious damage that could have been caused to the engine by the overheating? Also, I've read of people having to replace the axle boots regularly on Foresters. Is this true? Other than these problems, do Foresters have good reputations for reliability or should I look elsewhere? Thanks for any comments/suggestions!

When I hooked a cordless drill up to that base piece, the speedometer worked, so that part was fine. As I say though, the slotted part in the diff. that turns the base piece spins freely when the car is not moving and doesn't spin when it is.

It's AT and FWD.

No, it's the gear. I wish it was just the cable! With the cable disconnected, the slotted shaft at the end of the gear (that the cable assy. fits into) spins freely (car not moving). And doesn't spin when the car moves slowly. Appearently there was a problem with the cable binding and that caused the plastic gear that fits down inside the trans. to strip out.

I'm getting a code #33 (vehicle speed sensor) on my '92 Legacy. The gear in the transmission that turns the cable going to the speedometer is shot & since fixing it would require pulling the transmission, I'm using a GPS as my speedometer. How can I fool the ECU into thinking the VSS is good? If I simply clear the code, it comes right back on. Thanks, Dan

1992 Legacy wagon (FWD). 190000 miles. Biggest problem has been speedometer gear going out - rather than tearing apart transmission I'm using a GPS unit as speedo. substitute.

The bearing in question is on the rear pass. wheel of a FWD legacy. The picture in the FSM appears to show the bearing in the Hub unit.

I believe the pass. rear wheel bearing is going out on my '92 legacy 2wd. A new hub assy will include the bearing right? If so I think I'd rather replace the hub assy rather than have to hunt around for someone to press the bearing in/out (can't afford to be without a car too long). Also, my FSM doesn't detail the removal of the rear hub from the spindle other than to say: 1)Remove hub unit from rear spindle. Does it just pull off (fairly easily)? Or do I need some special tool/puller? I know it'd be cheaper to just replace the bearings, but the prices I found online for hub assy's weren't too bad if it's something I can do all on my own. Thanks

If there's no play, is that a good indication that it's probably something other than the wheel bearing?

If you find out what's causing the noise, post it. I'm having the same problem.

My '92 legacy wagon (FWD,auto) has started making a noise and after checking things out and searching here, I'm not sure if it's the wheel bearing or not. I first noticed it while making hard left turns. It's a scrapping/grinding sound coming from the pass. rear wheel. It sometimes makes it during hard right turns but not as much as left. It doesn't do it while driving straight & doesn't seem to do it when going over bumps. Rapid straight line acceleration doesn't cause it to happen either. I tried applying the breaks (including the parking break) while turning to see if that made a difference, but it didn't seem to. When I jack up the car and spin the wheel I get some rubbing from the brakes, but doesn't seem excessive, nothing like what you hear turning. Nothing with the brake assembly seems loose. Also when jacked up, there's no looseness when I grab the tire & try to wiggle it. No clunking or other noise when doing that. When it happens it sounds like something with the brakes/caliper rubbing on the rotor, but as I say it only happens on hard turns. It's that kind of metal on metal sound. At first I thought it was the wheel bearing, but before I spend the time/money replacing that I'd like to be fairly sure that's the problem. I've been getting hit with a lot of repairs lately on both our cars. What does it actually sound like when a bearing is beginning to fail? I assume if that's the problem it will get progressivly worse/louder. If that's it will it begin to be noticable while driving straight too? Thanks for any suggestions.

Right, but as I said, on my Nissan the sensor? with the plastic gear that fits into the trans. just pulled right out. Don't know why Subaru didn't make theirs as easy (inexpensive) to replace.

I have a '92 Legacy w/auto trans. It has the mechanical speedometer with cable running to the transmission. When the plastic gear in the transmission failed my speedometer died. Apparently the only way to replace this gear is to pull the transmission (told this by two dealer mechanics). I think having to do this is an incredibly poor design. I recently had to pull the VSS in my Nissan 200sx and it was a piece of cake(one bolt holding it in, then pull right out). What year did Subaru change from a mechanical to electrical VSS? On later models can the VSS be removed without dropping the trans. like on my Nissan? Since this is an older/high mileage car I opted for using a GPS unit as a speedometer. Not perfect, but seemed to be the best of a bad situation.

They're going to replace the ABS sensor, he said it "might" have gotten banged up when they replaced the axle. I searched around on the 'net & found some sites that felt that it's not too uncommon for someone to damage the sensor when working on axles/brakes.

He mentioned something about it not having a sensor ring. It should have had one?

A mechanic just changed the drivers side axle on my '92 Legacy (2wd), and as soon as I started to drive off the ABS light came one. This is the only time this light has come on. Because of this I have to take the car back tommorow, but before he tries to say it's not his fault, what could likely cause this, given the axle replacement? Dan

Can someone tell me the correct name for this part. It's at the end of the speedometer cable on a '92 Legacy (auto/2wd). I'm getting tired of calling it "that thingy at the end of the speedo. cable". On the location picture, this is shot on the passenger side with the front of the car to the right. Also, is that the differential rather than the trans. that it's going into? Thanks

Thanks!

Hi, I was going to replace the valve cover gaskets on my '92 Subaru Legacy this weekend & I was wondering if anyone could tell me the amount of torque to apply to the bolts. I have a usually seem to overtighten things & I really don't want to strip one of these out. Thanks, Dan