dssenne

I bought a used 1999 Outback Limited that didn't come with any remotes for the keyless entry. I plan on buying a couple replacements, but in the meantime, is there a way to turn off the "audible signal option" (honking horn) without using a keyless remote? I really don't like having the horn honk loudly when I come home at night. The manual only lists instructions using the keyless remote (which I don't have). Thanks

The engine was a JDM from Engineworld.

Here's a pic of the tach on my "new" 1999 Outback wagon,warmed up and sitting at a stop in Drive with the brake on. It has a recently swapped dohc 2.5L. With the swap it got new plugs and air filter. Plug wires look pretty new, as does the fuel filter. If I put it in neutral or park, I don't notice any significant change in rpm's up or down. If I turn the AC on, it goes up "maybe" a hundred rpm. The rpm's don't fluctuate at idle. When it's idling as shown, it's rougher than I'd like (quite a bit rougher than my '92 Legacy 2.2). It feels a bit rough under acceleration too, although it doesn't seem to stumble and gets up to speed ok. Even though it feels like it's idling too low, it's never died when idling so far... In searching, I see that it's not possible to manually adjust the idle higher, so if this is too low, what can I do to raise it. BTW, my '92 Legacy idles around 800 as does my '95 Nissan. Is this too low for a warm idle? What should it be?

Thanks all for the advice. I'm thinking that I don't have an alarm, since there's no blinking red light like on my Nissan. But the keyless would be nice, so I'll look for a replacement on the internet. Kind of suprised that it doesn't seem to have an alarm considering the amount of other nice extras on the car. The heated seats have been nice on these cold mornings!

I just bought a used 1999 Outback Wagon Limited. I didn't get a keyless remote with it, only a key. When I lock the door, the horn beeps, but there is no blinking light on the dash like other cars I've owned. Did this model come standard with at least some sort of an alarm system? If so, when it's activated, does it prevent the car from starting? The car's pretty loaded (heated leather seats, dual sunroofs, etc.), so I would think the Limited model would come with some type of security system standard. My insurance company is asking, saying I may be eligible for a premium reduction, which would be nice. Thanks

You're right, there are many posts on this. I can see the issue of transfering vibration. I'll see what I can do about improving the engine's smoothness by tune up, etc. As far as axles go, it doesn't bother me enough to justify the expense/hassle of replacing them.

Not really sure how the axles could cause the car to vibrate when it's sitting at a stoplight with the brakes on, and then have the vibration basically stop once you let off the brake and start moving. Yes, the idle speed seems to be related, as the vibration is not really noticable about 1000 rpm (or even less). I've been searching on "idle speed", and am finding some possible ideas reguarding the idle air control valve and possibly cleaning/replacing it.

Been driving it about a week now, and I've noticed a couple of differences between it and my '92 Legacy wagon (EJ22). . Both are automatics, btw. With the '99 Outback, when I'm sitting at a stop with the car in drive and my foot on the break, there's a bit of vibration, whereas the '92 doesn't really vibrate at all. It doesn't feel like it's falling apart, but it is noticable. If I put it in neutral or park the vibration pretty much goes away. At a stop like this, it's idling between 2 and three tick marks on the tach (300 rpm?). With my foot still on the brake, it I give it a bit of gas, as the rpm's go up slightly, the vibration lessens. As soon as I let my foot off the brake, it lightens up. When I'm moving, I don't notice excessive vibration either under load or coasting. It seems to run smoothly at speed. The other thing, which isn't a big deal, is that the '99 has more engine noise than the '92. It's not exhaust noise, just more mechanical sounds. Don't laugh, but it reminds me of a sewing machine. But it's not crazy loud, and doesn't sound like the engine's in trouble, it's just louder than the 2.2. It's more like my Nissan 200sx. Never having driven a 2.5 Outback, I don't have anything to compare it to, other than the '92. But back to the idle vibration, is my problem low idle speed? Without a shop tach, is my only option to take it back to get it adjusted? I saw where one poster replaced the fuel filter and got some relief. I was going to do that anyway, but as I say, it smooths out as soon as the rpm's go up a tad. It doesn't really feel like a fuel related issue. One other difference, that seems kind of strange it, the gas pedal on the '92 seems physically smoother, whereas the pedal on the '99 seems stiffer. Don't know why this would be, or what if anything I could do about it. Since this is a "new" engine, I'm driving it easy to break it in. Over all it seems to get up to speed ok, and runs fine at speed, cruising fine at 65-70 mph. Over all though, if I were comparing the two, I'd give the '92 the edge for seeming "peppier" on acceleration. I would have thought that with a slightly bigger engine, the '99 would have the edge here. Being a "Limited" with more stuff, I don't know if it's heavier, though I wouldn't doubt it. These aren't huge issues, but they are things I've noticed, and again, since I've never driven an Outback with a 2.5, I don't really have anything to compare it to, other than my '92. She's a rust bucket with a lot of miles, but she still runs good.

Thanks for the advice. Since I haven't noticed any problems, I think I'll hold off on the Trans-X, but I'll pay attention & keep it in mind. I see where Advance Auto Parts has a Driveworks filter for $14.99, and Autozone has a Duralast for $22.99. Any opinion whether the Duralast is worth $8 more?

I saw a post from you where you talked about using Amsoil synthetic ATF for this problem. I've tried searching all the autoparts stores near here and can't find it. Any recommendations of other brands that are good? Mobile-1, Royal Purple, Redline?

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_automatic-transmission-slip-stop-and-leak-fix-k-&-w-chemical_7120575-p?navigationPath=L1*14924|L2*15037 Is this the Trans-X you're talking about? I was going to change the ATF this weekend. Would you recommend adding a quart of this even though I don't yet have any trans. problems (as a preventative thing)?

I was planing on replacing those. I don't have any service records for those, so at least I'll have a start point for future maintenance.

Thanks for the heads up, I'll search for "delayed forward engagement.

Here's my "new" (new to me), 1999 Outback Limited. I bought it from a friend for $250. The engine was blown and he just wanted to get rid of it. It had 140K on it and seemed really clean, so I called a mechanic (Misha) at Ecotech in St. Louis about putting a "new" engine in it. He recommended a place that sells JDM engines, and I bought a 2.5 dohc from them (about $1500 including shipping and core charge). I had it towed over to Echotech and waited for the engine to arrive. In a few days it showed up & Misha said it looked really good (new head gaskets, seals,etc.). It came with a new timing belt and he put that on & replaced the tensioner assembly and the water pump. One of the mechanics took it home & drove it for a couple of days to check it out, and I picked it up after that. It drives/runs really nicely so far. No problems with CEL codes so far (knock on wood). Total I've got about $3300 in it, and I'm hoping it turns out to be money well spent (ones with similar miles seem to be going for more online). I haven't seen many posts here where people did engine swaps and posted how things turned out long term. I'll try to do that as time goes by....

Thanks!

Is regular (87 octane) gas is ok for a 1999 EJ25 DOHC engine? When I search this I find that while the 1996 had HLA heads and 91 octane gas was recommended, in 1997-1999, different lifters were used and the octane recommendation was lowered to 87. Is this correct? Thanks

Thanks for the info. Although we don't have emissions testing where I live, I might be giving the car to my daughter who lives where they do, so the EGR issue would be a deal breaker. I think I'll see if I can source a later year EJ22.

I should have researched this more before I posted. I did so last night. The check engine light could be a problem, I'd have to look into that. I did bypass the EGR on a Nissan once with a resistor taped into the plug. I thought the 92 was an interference engine. I'd seen that online, and that's what the mechanic who replaced the engine told me. Other than the problem with the EJ25 and head gaskets, are late 90's Outbacks reliable?

I have a 1992 Legacy (EJ22) that threw a timing belt about a year ago, and I had a "new" engine put in. Runs fine now, but it does have some other issues (no speedometer, lots of rust, generally getting old). A friend has just aquired a '99 Outback limited with 140K and a blown engine (EJ25). Everything else on the car is very nice. I can get this from him for little to no cost. Would it be practical to have the EJ22 from my '92 put in this '99? They are both automatics. My '92 is fwd. If it was practical to do this, I'd end up with a much nicer car. Any guess as to what a swap like this might cost me?

When in doubt read the manual. Sorry for the lame post. Don't ban me for being an idiot.

When in doubt read the manual. Sorry for the lame post...

Today I pulled the console covers to see if the solenoid was gummed up (it seemed fine- not dirty at all). Now when the selector is out of P, I can move it to the other positions without pressing the grip button. The only exception is that the button has to be pressed to go from N to R. I did loosen the selector lever (two screws on side) so I could lift the indicator cover up a bit to see the solenoid better. When I did this the grip button came out. But I thought I got it back together correctly. I know this is a stupid question, but the grip button needs to be pressed in order to be able to move the selector from say, D to N or 3,2,1 doesn't it? I never really tried to do so without pressing it, so I don't know if I screwed it up! If I did, any suggestions about what to do? I REALLY need to get it back together today! Thanks

I recently posted about my shift selector lever locking up on me ('92 w/auto. trans.). Today I pulled the console covers to see if the solenoid was gummed up (it seemed fine- not dirty at all). Now when the selector is out of P, I can move it to the other positions without pressing the grip button. The only exception is that the button has to be pressed to go from N to R. I did loosen the selector lever (two screws on side) so I could lift the indicator cover up a bit to see the solenoid better. When I did this the grip button came out. But I thought I got it back together correctly. I know this is a stupid question, but the grip button needs to be pressed in order to be able to move the selector from say, D to N or 3,2,1 doesn't it? I never really tried to do so without pressing it, so I don't know if I screwed it up! If I did, any suggestions about what to do? I REALLY need to get it back together today! Thanks

Yes, I hear a click under the dash. I'll pull the trim around the selector this weekend and check it out.

Thanks, I'll check that out when I get home tonight.