subarari

Is the data valid for the dash guage as well? I was testing mine the other day from cold to hot, but could find no reference values to determine if it is reading correctly

I think I'll skip the radiator shop...I took a Z radiator in to be recored and $300 later I realized I could've bought an aftermarket one and saved some money. Anyway I think the radiator is a good idea, I guess I'll go with a 2 row and while I'm at it check the belt tension. I got a question about cracked heads though, would they exhibit the same symptoms as a blown headgasket, but go away after the car reached temperature due to the expansion of the metal which would probably seal the crack? Also what does burning coolant smell like out of the exhaust?

So I know it has a new radiator, at least 2 years or newer, I put in a new oem t-stat when I did the job. I'm thinking a clog, or maybe a loose belt because this is what happened the other day. I've been driving it around town slow, but I decided to feel if it had more power after the fix, at this point the guage was at 3/4 or so, I pounded it up to 4th and watched the temp guage I noticed it drop quickly, then come back up. Maybe It blew through a clog and then clogged again? Or maybe the belt caught and pushed the water through?

So I'm having a problem on my 86 DL after my headgasket, timing belt repair. I changed all the hoses, water pump etc. and it's still running hot. After it warms up it'll run with the temp guage at midpoint, then when I drive it it'll heat up to about 3/4 till the red mark. I noticed that my cooling fan wasn't coming on which was really weird since the switch works and there's current in the wires with the ignition on, so I just bypassed it and now it runs all the time with the ignition on. This should've solved the problem right? Wrong, even with the fan on all the time it still runs hot. As I'm driving it on the highway it slowly starts creeping up to the 3/4 mark again. The only thing I haven't changed yet is the radiator. Before I changed my headgaskets I used a bars leak to try to seal the headgasket, I know it was a stupid idea , but I get lazy at times, do you think this S#IT is clogging my radiator and block from cooling properly? If so can I use a cooling system cleaner? Any ideas at all will help

So I did the seafoam trick and she purrs like a kitten, no more TOD! Now I have another problem, it seems that my cooling fan won't come on at all and the car idles at midway and gets up to 3/4 when I drive around town. When is the fan supposed to come on? I just replaced the switch, and isn't is rated for 195 degrees? Alos when I jump the switch the fan it comes on, so what's the deal? Is the switch I just bought bad? I'm thinking about wiring a switch to turn the fan on and off from inside the cabin.

Thanks for the info...I don't have a oil pressure guage, but the oil light on the dash doesn't go on while it's running so I'm assuming it has some pressure. I'll try to let her run for longer next time and see if the TOD and smoke go away. I'll try some seafoam for the lifters and see if that helps, if not I guess I'll have to tear her apart again to replace them, or try to loosen them up. I traced this whole issue back to the fan thermostat switch that had a hairline crack along the threads making it inoperable. I think this was happening for some time, but never too bad. It would always run a little hot and then heat up when I climbed a hill etc. I'll repost my results tomorrow

So I just finished my headgaskets on my EA82, along with timing belts and other odds and ends. I started her up and she spewed white smoke everywhere, and had TOD from hell. I let her run for a few minutes, but never up to temperature because I'm worried about the TOD since it's worse than before the operation. I did notice some lifters that didn't want to budge while others were free, should I have changed these? I did reseal the oil pump, but since the noise was there before I'm not sure if the oil pump was any good to begin with since it has 160k on the motor. Could the white smoke be caused by residual coolant/water in the exhaust?, and if so I'm assuming this would go away if I let her run longer.

So I'm in the middle of changing my belts in my DL wagon with an EA82 SPFI engine, when I notice that the chiltons manual says to have both dots(holes) on the camshaft sprockets facing straight up, at the same time when reinstalling the belts. According to this post the manual I have is wrong. Also I remember that when I took off my drivers side cylinder head the hole on the sprocket was pointing outward, exactly 90 degrees, while the passenger side was straight up. All this while the car was at TDC with the distributor pointing at cylinder #1. My question is this: 1) Should I reinstall the way the belts came out? Belts never snapped, but I've always felt the car was a bit sluggish, possibly because the cams were 90 degrees out of phase instead of 180 degrees? Or 2) Install everything according to the instructions on the post and trash the chiltons manual for almost making me do the job twice:mad:

Thanks for the advice on using OEM on specific items. I was looking at partsbin.com like daeron said, but I'm a little confused about selecting the correct item. Some of the items have a selection VIN(4) or VIN(5) and I was wondering what part of the VIN# tells me this? Thanks again for everyones help:headbang:

So I checked closer to see if it came on with the heater button or the defrost button depressed and sure enough your right, it only comes on while the defrost button is in. Thanks for the responses everything you guys said makes sense I guess I never though about that since I live in CA and it's rarely freezing around here for very long during the year

Thanks for the response. I'm trying to make a list so I can get all the parts at once. this is what I cam up with so far. 1)HG's 2)Intake/Exhaust manifold gaskets 3)VC gasket 4)upper/lower rad hoses 5)oil pump reseal 6)Timing belt kit(are all the necessary gaskets/o-rings included in kits?) 7)Accessory belts 8)Waterpump/gasket 9)OEM thermostat/gasket Do you think this list covers it all? Thanks

Like the title says I just confirmed that my AC compressor comes on intermittently while my heater in on. I'm thinking electrical, but I'm not familiar with the heater/ac controls on the dash. Anyone had this problem before?

So it looks like my temperature problems in my 86 DL are due to gasses leaking into the cooling system. I'm going to have to tackle the headgaskets, but I have a few questions first. 1)Are the HG's easily changed in the car? 2)What mechanical items and gaskets should be changed while the car is apart?

Thanks for the responses...The thing is my radiator is new, thermostat and thermostatic fan switch are new as well. I'm guessing the water pump maybe? I haven't changed it and I don't know when it was changed last, though it's not leaking. It almost feels like when I had a dirty AFM, kinda sluggish with low power, like it's running lean..I'm not sure on this one:-\

Thanks for the responses...so it sounds like an easy fix, but I'm not sure if I know exactly where your talking about. Dragonfire if your still up for taking those pictures that'd be great. Are these kits still available fro the dealer? Is this something that can be fabricated? I'll try the junkyards around here and see if any have subies Thanks Chris